Flash suppressor for Mini-30 to reduce muzzle jump? - Shooting Sports Forum


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Old 03-17-2012, 15:46   #1
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Flash suppressor for Mini-30 to reduce muzzle jump?

I'm interested in finding a replacement flash suppressor for the Mini-30 that will help reduce muzzle jump. I'm shooting steel targets @ 100 yards with a scope and bipod and there is enough muzzle jump when firing that I don't get to see my hit. I quickly get back on target and see my steel target dancing around but I miss the initial hit.

Gun seems to jump left as much as it does up . Is that really happening or am I just making that up in my head ?
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Old 03-17-2012, 16:45   #2
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you got to pick one.. flash hider or muzzle break. No cake and eat it too.
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Old 03-17-2012, 16:49   #3
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[quote=wahoowad;699113]I'm interested in finding a replacement flash suppressor for the Mini-30 that will help reduce muzzle jump. I'm shooting steel targets @ 100 yards with a scope and bipod and there is enough muzzle jump when firing that I don't get to see my hit. I quickly get back on target and see my steel target dancing around but I miss the initial hit.

Gun seems to jump left as much as it does up . Is that really happening or am I just makin
how about a muzzle break smarty ?
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Old 03-17-2012, 18:44   #4
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Kinganuthin - I need a muzzle break
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Old 03-17-2012, 18:52   #5
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i can get you started: Muzzle Devices | AR-10, LR-308 | Gun Parts by Gun Make & Model | Gunsmithing & Gun Parts |

Ive been thinking about the Bennie Cooley myself.
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Old 03-17-2012, 19:02   #6
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show him your mom
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:50   #7
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Originally Posted by wahoowad View Post
I'm interested in finding a replacement flash suppressor for the Mini-30 that will help reduce muzzle jump. I'm shooting steel targets @ 100 yards with a scope and bipod and there is enough muzzle jump when firing that I don't get to see my hit. I quickly get back on target and see my steel target dancing around but I miss the initial hit.

Gun seems to jump left as much as it does up . Is that really happening or am I just making that up in my head ?
no - it's not in your head -
are you not preloading your bipod? the rifle has a tendency to pull up and to the left if you don't

lean into the bipod (if it folds forward) or pull back on it (if it folds back towards you) and put some tension on the legs before taking the shot.

that should help... allot.

My .270 does the same thing.

A good muzzle brake will reduce muzzle flip during rapid fire - but it won't stop the "to the left" pull you are seeing shooting on the pod.
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:41   #8
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oh man i got such a hangover off that bottled water. ooooo god
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:11   #9
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Originally Posted by Mr. Snuffalupagus View Post
lean into the bipod (if it folds forward) or pull back on it (if it folds back towards you) and put some tension on the legs before taking the shot.
I am hesitant to preload the bipod on rifles where the stock forend makes contact with the barrel. It seems this could induce forces upon the barrel and impact accuracy. I'll try it though.
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:15   #10
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go get em tiger
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:17   #11
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try spending less on super sniper optics and buy some good ammo. You nummies drop bunch cash on good scope but wanna shoot cheap commie **** and get 1 moa.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:18   #12
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Originally Posted by KingANuthin View Post
you got to pick one.. flash hider or muzzle break. No cake and eat it too.
Thats not entirely true. The bird cage flash hider was designed to reduce muzzle rize (in addition to reducing the dust signature) thats why there isnt a finger cut in the bottom of the hider and the V-10 cuts on a springfeild 1911 do this exact thing too, and the Primary Weapons FSC556 brake flash hider. And of course, supressors do both.
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:15   #13
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:17   #14
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hey who took down my junk AR ?
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:49   #15
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Originally Posted by thinder View Post
Thats not entirely true. The bird cage flash hider was designed to reduce muzzle rize (in addition to reducing the dust signature) thats why there isnt a finger cut in the bottom of the hider and the V-10 cuts on a springfeild 1911 do this exact thing too, and the Primary Weapons FSC556 brake flash hider. And of course, supressors do both.
huh.. i didnt think flash hidders really worked well as muzzle breaks and vice versa. What would be a good break that also serves as a good flash hidder? (other than a suppressor of coarse.)
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Old 03-18-2012, 13:03   #16
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Originally Posted by KingANuthin View Post
huh.. i didnt think flash hidders really worked well as muzzle breaks and vice versa. What would be a good break that also serves as a good flash hidder? (other than a suppressor of coarse.)
Well, a flash hider techincally doesnt hide anything, it just fans the blast out in a pattern with low frontal area, like a star shape with long fingers instead of a big fireball. So most brakes do the same thing, but calling it a hider causes some problems in some states, ergo its ONLY a brake. The big open brakes like the JP dont really change the blast pattern so they probably wont hide much, There are a handfull of brakes that claim both.
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Old 03-18-2012, 14:52   #17
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Originally Posted by KingANuthin View Post
i can get you started: Muzzle Devices | AR-10, LR-308 | Gun Parts by Gun Make & Model | Gunsmithing & Gun Parts |

Ive been thinking about the Bennie Cooley myself.
Thanks for the link, King. So my Mini-30 has a 5/8"-24 thread adapter now, correct? Has anybody installed a muzzle brake on their Mini-30 and can vouch that it reduced the muzzle jump?

At the range today I noticed pretty much every gun I saw that had a muzzle brake (mostly all kinds of variants of AR's) had no bottom openings so they were already designed to assist with muzzle jump.
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Old 03-18-2012, 16:56   #18
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Originally Posted by wahoowad View Post
Thanks for the link, King. So my Mini-30 has a 5/8"-24 thread adapter now, correct? Has anybody installed a muzzle brake on their Mini-30 and can vouch that it reduced the muzzle jump?

At the range today I noticed pretty much every gun I saw that had a muzzle brake (mostly all kinds of variants of AR's) had no bottom openings so they were already designed to assist with muzzle jump.
damn you still havnt figured it out ?
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Old 03-18-2012, 17:57   #19
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Someone posted a link with some pictures of a pin on style adapter that you could swap out threaded brakes with. Iron Artist, a member here also made a similar model for sale. I have not seen him post in a while, maybe he will share his pictures.
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Old 03-18-2012, 17:59   #20
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how about adding a pencil sharpener. that will add some more weight to hoof around during
your SHTF scenario's
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:10   #21
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I've never attached a Smith Enterprise muzzle brake to my Mini 30 (need one in stainless) but I did have one on my 10" M16. It was so effective in keeping the muzzle down that I had to pull up on the gun when it was fired in long strings of full auto. I currently have one on my .308 Tanker Garand. They are outstanding!
Smith Enterprise Brake for 5/8x 24 up to .30 Cal Includes Jam Nut

I'm using a Choate flash hider with an enclosed bottom on my Mini 30 and it helps some, nothing like the SE brake though.



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Old 03-19-2012, 12:23   #22
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Sweet! (although kinda expensive - they all seem to be)

So I can unscrew my Mini-30 Tactical and screw this one back on? No special tools?
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:41   #23
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Originally Posted by wahoowad View Post
Sweet! (although kinda expensive - they all seem to be)

So I can unscrew my Mini-30 Tactical and screw this one back on? No special tools?
If you're current threads are 5/8X24 I don't see why not. I usually oil the threads of both the gun and the brake the first time that I install them together, it makes things go a little easier.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:44   #24
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Originally Posted by MOUNTAIN WILLIAM View Post
If you're current threads are 5/8X24 I don't see why not.
That's just it - I don't know what the threads are. I have the new 581-series Mini-30 Tactical but I don't see any technical info online that clearly identifies the threading.
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Old 03-19-2012, 13:36   #25
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That's what I'm coming up with also. My search fu sux.
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