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Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 family of rifles

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Old 10-14-2020, 09:22   #26
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If I cycle the empty rifle it’ll fire but if I cycle it loaded it’ll fire the first time but won’t reset for the second shot. When I took the trigger group out and manually cocked it the hammer set to the primary and bypassed the secondary completely. So in other words I have single stage trigger and the rifle won’t work like that.
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Old 10-14-2020, 09:27   #27
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I’ve contacted Ruger and waiting on reply. I understand what your talking about. Resurfacing the hook end on the secondary so it’ll stick out more but if I screw it up Ruger will charge me for the repair. If I just send it to em and let them fix it I might get away with just shipping charges.
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Old 10-14-2020, 09:35   #28
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Most novices that attempt trigger work mess up the angles on the sear.
It maybe possible to recut the proper angle on the secondary.
Novices tend to use the wrong stones for polishing.
The secondary sear should never be touched as it has no bearing on
the trigger pull.
The person that did your rifle apparently did not understand how the
trigger group functioned.
The sear angles are normally cut in a jig to give the proper angle.
As Sandog said watch the GunDoc video which you can find in the Internet Archive
.com
If the sear cannot be repaired try gunpartscorp.com for a new secondary sear.
You may also send the weapon back to ruger for repair or a local gunsmith.
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Old 10-14-2020, 10:53   #29
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Since quite a few Mini owners eventually get a Trigger Job, it might be worth considering sending the trigger group off to a skilled, professional who is intimately familiar with Mini Trigger Jobs, and have the offending component--or components replaced, and the rest of the trigger job done. Make sure to tell whoever does it about your symptoms and suspicions. I suggest ASI https://www.mini14triggers.com/ But there other good alternatives. ASI does not handle Warranty issues, though.
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Old 10-14-2020, 11:05   #30
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If Ruger is willing to put it back to normal without any cost, I’ll let them do it. Then I can send it off for the trigger job if Ruger don’t offer that.
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Old 10-14-2020, 12:01   #31
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Originally Posted by burch View Post
If Ruger is willing to put it back to normal without any cost, I’ll let them do it. Then I can send it off for the trigger job if Ruger don’t offer that.
That's cool. Please call Ruger first, and make certain to send them everything they require; Sometimes that means the entire rifle. If anything else about the rifle is even slightly amiss, make a point of telling them. Ruger will assess the rifle based on your comments, and will contact you with a price.

Unless you are 100% sure that one or another part has been "modified", perhaps best to simply describe the problem(s) in detail instead of mentioning your suspicions. Hopefully, Ruger will "Warranty" at least some of it.

You might also consider using this "opportunity" to buy some other "factory-fitted" spare parts, such as firing pins, extractors, and their associated springs and other pieces, all of which are small and easily lost.

Best of luck, and please report back!
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Last edited by RIBob; 10-14-2020 at 12:34.
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Old 10-14-2020, 16:38   #32
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Ruger doesn't want a firearm out there that has been altered by a previous owner and possibly unsafe.
Even if it is used and more than 2 years old, I doubt they will charge you to make it right, and safe again in their eyes.
You'll probably have to cover shipping it to them though.

If you send the whole rifle it would be a good time to request a spare firing pin (at minimum) fitted as RIBob suggested, but any extras like that will be on your dime.
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Old 10-15-2020, 13:30   #33
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Originally Posted by Bepe View Post
Burch...check your secondary sear spring. If it was modified and cut too short the spring does not have enough power to move the secondary sear fast enough to catch the hammer before it jumps to the primary.

Gun Doc explains this in his video. He recommends taking a slight amount off of the secondary sear interface to close the gap between the two sear hooks if you go to a lighter spring. I installed the MCarbo spring and tested. All was fine so I just did a slight polish on the interface to smooth up the secondary takeup. Second pic is the interface.

Probably just a matter of replacing the spring if it is boogered.

MCarbo has a video if you don't know how to do it. Pretty simple.

If Bubba changed angle on the sear face you are porked and a trip to Ruger will be required.

Regards Bepe
Excellent idea
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Old 11-11-2020, 12:59   #34
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Finally got my rifle back from Ruger. Everything is working right now. Time for a trigger job. It’s breaking 5.5 - 6 lbs. they even ate the shipping
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Old 11-11-2020, 15:52   #35
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Old 11-12-2020, 06:11   #36
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Glad it worked out well for you! Did Ruger reveal what was done to your Mini?
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Old 11-12-2020, 12:36   #37
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They replaced the trigger return spring and realigned the slide. It still isn’t engaging the secondary sear but I test fired it and it’s working. I just sent off my trigger to Accuracy Systems for a trigger job.
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Old 11-12-2020, 13:14   #38
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Originally Posted by burch View Post
They replaced the trigger return spring and realigned the slide. It still isnít engaging the secondary sear but I test fired it and itís working. I just sent off my trigger to Accuracy Systems for a trigger job.
Well, if it's "working" then I reckon things meet Ruger specs, at least. ASI will go over your trigger group and do a pretty good trigger job. I'm happy with their work. I suggest dis-allowing them to install any "extra-power" trigger group springs. I suggest you contact them and verify NO extra power springs.
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Old 11-14-2020, 08:46   #39
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Originally Posted by burch View Post
Ok, Iíve removed the buffer, made sure the op rod was correct, disassembled the mags and cleaned em. Figured out the secondary sear wasnít engaging. Disassembled the trigger group and it looks like the previous owner might have attempted a trigger job ( and thatís just a guess ) because everything looks polished and slick. He may have taken too much off. Iím guessing this rifle hasnít been shot much at all cause the interior and the charging handle has almost all of the bluing still there. So with all that said, could I be right or wrong. All criticism accepted.
FYI. The 1st time I had a trigger job by a former vendor on PU he took too much material off the sear and I ended up sending to Brimstone. Thank goodness they had a replacement sear (donít remember which one). Also, my 5817 does not like buffers or .223 ammo.
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Old 11-14-2020, 20:52   #40
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Originally Posted by RIBob View Post
Well, if it's "working" then I reckon things meet Ruger specs, at least. ASI will go over your trigger group and do a pretty good trigger job. I'm happy with their work. I suggest dis-allowing them to install any "extra-power" trigger group springs. I suggest you contact them and verify NO extra power springs.
ASI did a trigger job on one of the Mini's I sent to them to rebarrel. I moved it to my 580 series rifle. It gives the rifle about a 4 lb trigger pull. It's great. I have no idea what they did to get it there. If they added springs our just did a little polishing, I don't know. I just know it came back pretty darn nice.

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Old 11-15-2020, 09:57   #41
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Brimstone did mine. Big thumbs up for them.

Mini Trigger Work - Brimstone Gunsmithing
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Old 01-13-2021, 21:30   #42
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If you just cock the hammer back in the trigger group, it will only engage the primary sear.
When you fire the rifle, the bolt comes back and recocks the hammer and the trigger is back to the rear as you pull the trigger and the action is cycling. The hammer is caught by the secondary sear as it pivots forward and the trigger is still to the rear. As you let off on the trigger, the secondary pivots back and drops the hammer to be caught by the primary sear.
If you try the trigger group function, pull the trigger to release the hammer and then hold the trigger to the rear and recock the hammer and you will see that it is caught by the secondary sear and then drops down to the primary sear when you let off on the trigger.
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Old 01-15-2021, 04:07   #43
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This is what happened to me with a NIB stainless 584 mini. Took out of box. Cycled a few times . Dry fired a few times. Took apart and inspected and cleaned. Lubed put back together and the trigger / hammer wouldn’t drop to fire. What it was , the trigger guard hooks wasn’t rotating enough into the receiver. It caused the hammer/ trigger to be frozen up. I lightly filed on the hooks where they make contact and, problem solved. I can’t explain why it worked out of the box. I did not take the trigger group apart. I merely dropped the trigger group and cleaned the rifle. Reinstalled and had the issue. Have you gotten it straightened out yet ???
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