MRD Mounts - Shooting Sports Forum


Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 family of rifles

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Old 07-21-2020, 18:16   #1
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MRD Mounts

Hi all, I've got a 180 series Mini 14 that I put an UltiMAK and a Vortex Sparc on some time ago and love it! I've also got a stock 580 that I just decided to add the UltiMAK to with a FastFireIII (both on the way) but was wondering if anyone has used the MRD mounts for a little added protection for the sight? How do you like it?
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Old 07-21-2020, 18:19   #2
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Good question. Can you supply a link?

NVM: I hthnk this is the mount: https://www.defensereview.com/ams-ma...0on%20running.

Last edited by RIBob; 07-21-2020 at 18:48.
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Old 07-21-2020, 19:28   #3
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That's the one..amsmachine.net/product-list/mrd-mounts/
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Old 07-21-2020, 19:34   #4
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...although the one I'm looking at buying is not the 45 degree offset; sits right atop the UltiMAK right down the pipe.
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Old 07-21-2020, 19:59   #5
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Or...how about using the 45 degree offset for a very practical and accessible lighting mount?
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Old 07-22-2020, 05:02   #6
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So you already have the Ultimak you could mount a dot on, I'm just wondering why you need to mount at 45 degrees ?
If you just want protective wings for the Fastfire, Burris makes a winged mount, the Picatinny protector mount.
I use them on all my Minis.

As far as a sling mount, you can mount on the side, I don't see any advantage to mounting at a 45 angle. Cost of their 45 degree mount is a big disadvantage.
Their extended 45 degree rail is $52, I can side mount the sling on the fore end using a $7 Magpul polymer rail bolted to the end of the stock.


The Burris winged mount is $60, the MRD one is $85.
Burris Pic Protector mount, shown with a Dreamplastics rubber cover on the Fastfire:





Some sling mounting options:



Last one is a flush mount Noveske socket bolted into the stock.
If you mount both swivels on the side, the Mini will want to roll away from you.
So I mount the rear swivel at the top of the stock.



I'm left handed, so my slings are mounted on the right, a right handed person would want the side mounted sling on the left.
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Old 07-22-2020, 08:35   #7
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Originally Posted by Redsmith View Post
Hi all, I've got a 180 series Mini 14 that I put an UltiMAK and a Vortex Sparc on some time ago and love it! I've also got a stock 580 that I just decided to add the UltiMAK to with a FastFireIII (both on the way) but was wondering if anyone has used the MRD mounts for a little added protection for the sight? How do you like it?
Red, just for clarification:
There was a significant change between the 180-series (first three digits being 180) and the 181 (and above) series.

Responses and recommendations are sort of dependent on the distinction.
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Old 07-22-2020, 16:41   #8
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Originally Posted by RJF View Post
Red, just for clarification:
There was a significant change between the 180-series (first three digits being 180) and the 181 (and above) series.

Responses and recommendations are sort of dependent on the distinction.
Specifically, I have a 186 and a 580
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Old 07-22-2020, 16:53   #9
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sandog So you already have the Ultimak you could mount a dot on, I'm just wondering why you need to mount at 45 degrees ?
If you just want protective wings for the Fastfire, Burris makes a winged mount, the Picatinny protector mount.

Wow Sandog...thanks for all the great info and pics! For clarification, I'm not wanting to mount the sight off set, I think the confusion came from RIBob's link that talked about the same company's 45 offset. Although, I was thinking that the MRD off set might be a nifty alternative for a weapons light mount...whaddaya think? Got any other recommendations for a weapons light mount other than affixed to the barrel? Thanks again sandog for all the great info!
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Old 07-22-2020, 17:17   #10
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The light is mounted on the opposite side rail from the sling.
So the light is attached to the front of the stock, not the barrel.

Bepe has the same set up and neither of us has noticed a problem with the beam of light being off.
The button at the back of the light is right there for your supporting hand to push against it and activate the light.
I use a Surefire Dual Output Pro but the Streamlights are good as well.

The light, rail and clamp run under $100.

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Old 07-22-2020, 18:02   #11
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Originally Posted by sandog View Post
The light is mounted on the opposite side rail from the sling.
So the light is attached to the front of the stock, not the barrel.

Bepe has the same set up and neither of us has noticed a problem with the beam of light being off.
The button at the back of the light is right there for your supporting hand to push against it and activate the light.
I use a Surefire Dual Output Pro but the Streamlights are good as well.

The light, rail and clamp run under $100.

Slick...who's the mount made by? BTW, just pulled the trigger on the Burris winged protector and the dreamplastics covers. With regard to the sling mounts, who makes the ones that look like they have a quick disconnect button in the center?
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Old 07-22-2020, 18:20   #12
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The light mount is made by CAA.
The black ones are fairly easy to find, I had to do some searching to get one in O.D.Green
or Tan.

Q.D. sling swivels that have the button in the center are made by just about everybody.
This one is different, made by Magpul. They are a bit more expensive, but are Melonite coated steel, puts the end of the sling at a 45 degree angle, and have two buttons on each side that need to be pressed simultaneously to release the sling, to prevent an inadvertent release that can happen with the Q.D. swivels with the button in the middle.
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Old 07-22-2020, 18:37   #13
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A wealth of info...thanks again sandog!
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Old 07-23-2020, 17:24   #14
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Thanks Bepe, I've already got a couple of surefire G2's and CAA mounts on the way so I'll strat with those. At 65 lumens they should do just fine for life & property protection distances. Now to get around to sling mounting!
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Old 07-25-2020, 18:41   #15
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I know there are small picatinny rails all over the internet; I'm getting ready to mount the CCA flashlight mount after just finishing the UltiMAK and FF III. Just wondering if there's a more sturdy manf. out there rather than some eBay crap from china. And is 2" or the 3" the best choice? Mount with wood screws or a nutsert from the bbl side?
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Old 07-25-2020, 19:16   #16
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https://www.perfectunion.com/vb/ruge...ini-stock.html
A 2 inch rail is enough to mount a sling or light clamp, but a 3 inch is also good and isn't gonna weigh a lot more. I use Magpul Polymer rails, about $6 compared to $18 for the aluminum ones. All of the Magpul rails come with T-nuts.
Plenty of room between the heat shield and stock on a synthetic stock.

On a wood stock you might have to dish out the wood a bit for the T-nut head with a Dremel, as there is no space between heat shield and wood.
Before I took out too much wood to countersink, I'd consider just using some black wood screws for mounting to a wood stock.
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Old 07-25-2020, 20:19   #17
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Originally Posted by sandog View Post
https://www.perfectunion.com/vb/ruge...ini-stock.html
A 2 inch rail is enough to mount a sling or light clamp, but a 3 inch is also good and isn't gonna weigh a lot more. I use Magpul Polymer rails, about $6 compared to $18 for the aluminum ones. All of the Magpul rails come with T-nuts.
Plenty of room between the heat shield and stock on a synthetic stock.

On a wood stock you might have to dish out the wood a bit for the T-nut head with a Dremel, as there is no space between heat shield and wood.
Before I took out too much wood to countersink, I'd consider just using some black wood screws for mounting to a wood stock.
Thanks sandog, I figured the wood screws would be plenty strong and the mini I'm outfitting now does have a wood stock. Wasn't sure either about the polymer rails, I always tend to overbuild everything so the aluminum looked enticing while the prices did not.
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Old 07-25-2020, 20:35   #18
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The way I see it, the polymer rails are plenty strong, way cheaper, lighter, have nice rounded edges and aren't going to have a finish wear off eventually like the black anodized aluminum ones will.
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Old 07-26-2020, 08:40   #19
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Originally Posted by Redsmith View Post
Thanks sandog, I figured the wood screws would be plenty strong and the mini I'm outfitting now does have a wood stock. Wasn't sure either about the polymer rails, I always tend to overbuild everything so the aluminum looked enticing while the prices did not.
Just an opinion, but if it is necessary to use wood screws on the fore-end of a wooden stock, it is possible to drill the pilot hole completely through the fore end of the stock, so getting complete thread-to-wood engagement throughout the full depth of the wood, and then cut off the excess part of the screw that protrudes into the fore-end of the stock. I suggest relatively fine thread wood screws, of the largest possible diameter, and of sufficient length for this application. Always lube wood screw threads with beeswax or soap.

If at all feasible, I suggest using steel screws and nuts/washers. Understood this is not always possible.
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Old 07-26-2020, 08:51   #20
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Originally Posted by sandog View Post
The way I see it, the polymer rails are plenty strong, way cheaper, lighter, have nice rounded edges and aren't going to have a finish wear off eventually like the black anodized aluminum ones will.
I agree, and use the same 3" Magpul Picatinny sections wherever possible. The additional length allows some amount of room in repositioning the light to suit different user's arm lengths, and/or the wearing of heavy clothing/body armor.
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Old 07-26-2020, 13:55   #21
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Originally Posted by sandog View Post
The way I see it, the polymer rails are plenty strong, way cheaper, lighter, have nice rounded edges and aren't going to have a finish wear off eventually like the black anodized aluminum ones will.
Got a couple on the way!
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Old 07-26-2020, 13:55   #22
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Originally Posted by RIBob View Post
Just an opinion, but if it is necessary to use wood screws on the fore-end of a wooden stock, it is possible to drill the pilot hole completely through the fore end of the stock, so getting complete thread-to-wood engagement throughout the full depth of the wood, and then cut off the excess part of the screw that protrudes into the fore-end of the stock. I suggest relatively fine thread wood screws, of the largest possible diameter, and of sufficient length for this application. Always lube wood screw threads with beeswax or soap.

If at all feasible, I suggest using steel screws and nuts/washers. Understood this is not always possible.
Thanks RIBob
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Old 07-26-2020, 15:03   #23
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Originally Posted by Bepe View Post
We have discussed this in a couple of other threads but didn't look them up. Get some decent size wood screws that have the tapered head. Test fit to make sure they sit nice in the pic rail or swivel recess.

Stick them through a piece of cardboard the night before and spray paint the heads flat black. Next day pre drill the holes a hair smaller than the screw. Dig the screws in a bar of soap and test run them into the hole screwing an 1/8th of a turn and backing out and then in again and back out until they protrude through the wood inner liner. The holes will now be sized for the screw and you won't crack your stock. Test fit the pic rail and mark the inner screw where it protruded through the liner. Take out...cut off and final install. Might have to put a dab of paint on the screw head for a touchup.

Done. No nuts. A substantial screw is adequate even for a sling mount. Wood screws on the wood stock and the Magpul nut and screw on the poly. You have to hollow out a divet on the poly so the nut sits below the liner.

Bepe
No doubt about it, I was NOT the first to discover this technique. I read about it first in a very old gunsmithing book.
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