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-   Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 (http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=86)
-   -   MRD Mounts (http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/showthread.php?t=210532)

Redsmith 07-21-2020 18:16

MRD Mounts
 
Hi all, I've got a 180 series Mini 14 that I put an UltiMAK and a Vortex Sparc on some time ago and love it! I've also got a stock 580 that I just decided to add the UltiMAK to with a FastFireIII (both on the way) but was wondering if anyone has used the MRD mounts for a little added protection for the sight? How do you like it?

RIBob 07-21-2020 18:19

Good question. Can you supply a link?

NVM: I hthnk this is the mount: https://www.defensereview.com/ams-ma...0on%20running.

Redsmith 07-21-2020 19:28

That's the one..amsmachine.net/product-list/mrd-mounts/

Redsmith 07-21-2020 19:34

...although the one I'm looking at buying is not the 45 degree offset; sits right atop the UltiMAK right down the pipe.

Redsmith 07-21-2020 19:59

Or...how about using the 45 degree offset for a very practical and accessible lighting mount?

sandog 07-22-2020 05:02

So you already have the Ultimak you could mount a dot on, I'm just wondering why you need to mount at 45 degrees ?
If you just want protective wings for the Fastfire, Burris makes a winged mount, the Picatinny protector mount.
I use them on all my Minis.

As far as a sling mount, you can mount on the side, I don't see any advantage to mounting at a 45 angle. Cost of their 45 degree mount is a big disadvantage.
Their extended 45 degree rail is $52, I can side mount the sling on the fore end using a $7 Magpul polymer rail bolted to the end of the stock.


The Burris winged mount is $60, the MRD one is $85.
Burris Pic Protector mount, shown with a Dreamplastics rubber cover on the Fastfire:
https://i.imgur.com/bPsfNkbh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EyYCMS7h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/egG6zHHh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DGTQOR9h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cAjcxyEh.jpg
Some sling mounting options:
https://i.imgur.com/f8Up1dHh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XRV0lHTh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GDxwhGyh.jpg
Last one is a flush mount Noveske socket bolted into the stock.
If you mount both swivels on the side, the Mini will want to roll away from you.
So I mount the rear swivel at the top of the stock.
https://i.imgur.com/QZTZ0x9h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/v8J2ci0h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/x7qbpaMh.jpg
I'm left handed, so my slings are mounted on the right, a right handed person would want the side mounted sling on the left.

RJF 07-22-2020 08:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redsmith (Post 1643350)
Hi all, I've got a 180 series Mini 14 that I put an UltiMAK and a Vortex Sparc on some time ago and love it! I've also got a stock 580 that I just decided to add the UltiMAK to with a FastFireIII (both on the way) but was wondering if anyone has used the MRD mounts for a little added protection for the sight? How do you like it?

Red, just for clarification:
There was a significant change between the 180-series (first three digits being 180) and the 181 (and above) series.

Responses and recommendations are sort of dependent on the distinction.

Redsmith 07-22-2020 16:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJF (Post 1643426)
Red, just for clarification:
There was a significant change between the 180-series (first three digits being 180) and the 181 (and above) series.

Responses and recommendations are sort of dependent on the distinction.

Specifically, I have a 186 and a 580

Redsmith 07-22-2020 16:53

sandog So you already have the Ultimak you could mount a dot on, I'm just wondering why you need to mount at 45 degrees ?
If you just want protective wings for the Fastfire, Burris makes a winged mount, the Picatinny protector mount.

Wow Sandog...thanks for all the great info and pics! For clarification, I'm not wanting to mount the sight off set, I think the confusion came from RIBob's link that talked about the same company's 45 offset. Although, I was thinking that the MRD off set might be a nifty alternative for a weapons light mount...whaddaya think? Got any other recommendations for a weapons light mount other than affixed to the barrel? Thanks again sandog for all the great info!

sandog 07-22-2020 17:17

The light is mounted on the opposite side rail from the sling.
So the light is attached to the front of the stock, not the barrel.

Bepe has the same set up and neither of us has noticed a problem with the beam of light being off.
The button at the back of the light is right there for your supporting hand to push against it and activate the light.
I use a Surefire Dual Output Pro but the Streamlights are good as well.

The light, rail and clamp run under $100.
https://i.imgur.com/Sh6de02h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SCXIzNZh.jpg

Redsmith 07-22-2020 18:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandog (Post 1643506)
The light is mounted on the opposite side rail from the sling.
So the light is attached to the front of the stock, not the barrel.

Bepe has the same set up and neither of us has noticed a problem with the beam of light being off.
The button at the back of the light is right there for your supporting hand to push against it and activate the light.
I use a Surefire Dual Output Pro but the Streamlights are good as well.

The light, rail and clamp run under $100.
https://i.imgur.com/Sh6de02h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SCXIzNZh.jpg

Slick...who's the mount made by? BTW, just pulled the trigger on the Burris winged protector and the dreamplastics covers. With regard to the sling mounts, who makes the ones that look like they have a quick disconnect button in the center?

sandog 07-22-2020 18:20

The light mount is made by CAA.
The black ones are fairly easy to find, I had to do some searching to get one in O.D.Green
or Tan.

Q.D. sling swivels that have the button in the center are made by just about everybody.
This one is different, made by Magpul. They are a bit more expensive, but are Melonite coated steel, puts the end of the sling at a 45 degree angle, and have two buttons on each side that need to be pressed simultaneously to release the sling, to prevent an inadvertent release that can happen with the Q.D. swivels with the button in the middle.
https://i.imgur.com/f8Up1dHh.jpg

Redsmith 07-22-2020 18:37

A wealth of info...thanks again sandog!

Redsmith 07-23-2020 17:24

Thanks Bepe, I've already got a couple of surefire G2's and CAA mounts on the way so I'll strat with those. At 65 lumens they should do just fine for life & property protection distances. Now to get around to sling mounting!

Redsmith 07-25-2020 18:41

I know there are small picatinny rails all over the internet; I'm getting ready to mount the CCA flashlight mount after just finishing the UltiMAK and FF III. Just wondering if there's a more sturdy manf. out there rather than some eBay crap from china. And is 2" or the 3" the best choice? Mount with wood screws or a nutsert from the bbl side?

sandog 07-25-2020 19:16

https://www.perfectunion.com/vb/ruge...ini-stock.html
A 2 inch rail is enough to mount a sling or light clamp, but a 3 inch is also good and isn't gonna weigh a lot more. I use Magpul Polymer rails, about $6 compared to $18 for the aluminum ones. All of the Magpul rails come with T-nuts.
Plenty of room between the heat shield and stock on a synthetic stock.

On a wood stock you might have to dish out the wood a bit for the T-nut head with a Dremel, as there is no space between heat shield and wood.
Before I took out too much wood to countersink, I'd consider just using some black wood screws for mounting to a wood stock.

Redsmith 07-25-2020 20:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandog (Post 1644118)
https://www.perfectunion.com/vb/ruge...ini-stock.html
A 2 inch rail is enough to mount a sling or light clamp, but a 3 inch is also good and isn't gonna weigh a lot more. I use Magpul Polymer rails, about $6 compared to $18 for the aluminum ones. All of the Magpul rails come with T-nuts.
Plenty of room between the heat shield and stock on a synthetic stock.

On a wood stock you might have to dish out the wood a bit for the T-nut head with a Dremel, as there is no space between heat shield and wood.
Before I took out too much wood to countersink, I'd consider just using some black wood screws for mounting to a wood stock.

Thanks sandog, I figured the wood screws would be plenty strong and the mini I'm outfitting now does have a wood stock. Wasn't sure either about the polymer rails, I always tend to overbuild everything so the aluminum looked enticing while the prices did not.

sandog 07-25-2020 20:35

The way I see it, the polymer rails are plenty strong, way cheaper, lighter, have nice rounded edges and aren't going to have a finish wear off eventually like the black anodized aluminum ones will.

RIBob 07-26-2020 08:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redsmith (Post 1644122)
Thanks sandog, I figured the wood screws would be plenty strong and the mini I'm outfitting now does have a wood stock. Wasn't sure either about the polymer rails, I always tend to overbuild everything so the aluminum looked enticing while the prices did not.

Just an opinion, but if it is necessary to use wood screws on the fore-end of a wooden stock, it is possible to drill the pilot hole completely through the fore end of the stock, so getting complete thread-to-wood engagement throughout the full depth of the wood, and then cut off the excess part of the screw that protrudes into the fore-end of the stock. I suggest relatively fine thread wood screws, of the largest possible diameter, and of sufficient length for this application. Always lube wood screw threads with beeswax or soap.

If at all feasible, I suggest using steel screws and nuts/washers. Understood this is not always possible.

RIBob 07-26-2020 08:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandog (Post 1644124)
The way I see it, the polymer rails are plenty strong, way cheaper, lighter, have nice rounded edges and aren't going to have a finish wear off eventually like the black anodized aluminum ones will.

I agree, and use the same 3" Magpul Picatinny sections wherever possible. The additional length allows some amount of room in repositioning the light to suit different user's arm lengths, and/or the wearing of heavy clothing/body armor.

Redsmith 07-26-2020 13:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandog (Post 1644124)
The way I see it, the polymer rails are plenty strong, way cheaper, lighter, have nice rounded edges and aren't going to have a finish wear off eventually like the black anodized aluminum ones will.

Got a couple on the way!

Redsmith 07-26-2020 13:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by RIBob (Post 1644188)
Just an opinion, but if it is necessary to use wood screws on the fore-end of a wooden stock, it is possible to drill the pilot hole completely through the fore end of the stock, so getting complete thread-to-wood engagement throughout the full depth of the wood, and then cut off the excess part of the screw that protrudes into the fore-end of the stock. I suggest relatively fine thread wood screws, of the largest possible diameter, and of sufficient length for this application. Always lube wood screw threads with beeswax or soap.

If at all feasible, I suggest using steel screws and nuts/washers. Understood this is not always possible.

Thanks RIBob

RIBob 07-26-2020 15:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bepe (Post 1644244)
We have discussed this in a couple of other threads but didn't look them up. Get some decent size wood screws that have the tapered head. Test fit to make sure they sit nice in the pic rail or swivel recess.

Stick them through a piece of cardboard the night before and spray paint the heads flat black. Next day pre drill the holes a hair smaller than the screw. Dig the screws in a bar of soap and test run them into the hole screwing an 1/8th of a turn and backing out and then in again and back out until they protrude through the wood inner liner. The holes will now be sized for the screw and you won't crack your stock. Test fit the pic rail and mark the inner screw where it protruded through the liner. Take out...cut off and final install. Might have to put a dab of paint on the screw head for a touchup.

Done. No nuts. A substantial screw is adequate even for a sling mount. Wood screws on the wood stock and the Magpul nut and screw on the poly. You have to hollow out a divet on the poly so the nut sits below the liner.

Bepe

No doubt about it, I was NOT the first to discover this technique. I read about it first in a very old gunsmithing book.


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