Ultimak mounting question - Shooting Sports Forum


Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 family of rifles

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Old 07-09-2020, 01:39   #1
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Ultimak mounting question

Good Morning. Got my new Ultimak M4-S for my 584 series Mini 14. Got it mounted up and something doesn't seem right with the rear barrel clamp.
The mounting screws were just barely long enough to screw into the clamp and when fully tightened there is a gap between the clamp and the Ultimak rail. It seems like the clamp should seat into the slots machined into the rail when tight. This is not even close and it doesn't seem right. I wonder if maybe they included the wrong barrel clamp.
I will call Ultimak later but figured someone here will know whats up? Thanks.

Last edited by bmur66; 07-09-2020 at 02:03.
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Old 07-09-2020, 03:26   #2
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Sandog will be along to help you out. He's done a few.
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Old 07-09-2020, 04:53   #3
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The M4-S is the correct model for the tapered barrel Minis.
I have noticed before that the rear barrel clamp doesn't quite snug up into the slots.
Are the screws at least 3/4 of the way into the threads ?

I'd still call Ultimak when they open and see what they say.
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Old 07-09-2020, 05:27   #4
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The screws are maybe halfway into the threads. I am afraid they will pull. I will call Ultimak today and post what they tell me. Thanks Sandog
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Old 07-09-2020, 05:53   #5
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Depending on the answer from Ultimak, I would go to hardware store and buy new screws of the proper length/thread, preferably stainless steel. If needed, cut too-long screws with a dremel and cutting wheel. Buy some extras, in case one goes flying when cutting. BTDT.

Full thread engagement is always best practice, especially when dealing with threaded aluminum items, such as the Ultimak.
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Old 07-09-2020, 22:40   #6
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Here's a pic of the Ultimak clamp on my "583"... seems to have a very small gap to ensure good clamping of barrel. You can also see the end of the screw.

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Old 07-10-2020, 01:12   #7
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Originally Posted by MJM59 View Post
Here's a pic of the Ultimak clamp on my "583"... seems to have a very small gap to ensure good clamping of barrel. You can also see the end of the screw.

Thank you very much for posting that pic. As you can see below, mine has a substantially bigger gap. What I have determined after calling Ultimak is that my barrel diameter is slightly oversized. Assuming that the spec. for the barrel diameter where the rear clamp mounts is .625, mine actually measures .643.
My guess is Ruger doesn't consider this a critical dimension and there is probably a large tolerance.
I am not yet sure what to think about this but to make it right is going to require longer screws and some custom fitting.
I am actually considering just getting out of the mini 14 business. Brand new gun had to go back to Ruger because it wouldn't run due to ejection problems. Ruger did take care of that issue. I got the ultimak so I could remove the bolt for cleaning without removing the red dot I had mounted on the factory rail. Not crazy about custom fitting the ultimak rail either.
I just want a good, reliable, mostly NY legal anti commie weapon. Any suggestions?
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Last edited by bmur66; 07-10-2020 at 02:28.
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Old 07-10-2020, 04:01   #8
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Don't give up yet bmur. I live in Newyorkistan too. If you have a tap and die set figure out the thread pitch and get longer screws. Maybe you need to buy them from Brownells. Not sure of the threads. Maybe Sandog can help out.
You can easily dremel out the radius to make a much tighter fit then you might not need longer screws.
Patience! Get that Mini running. You will love it!
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Old 07-10-2020, 04:15   #9
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I was going to offer my services at no charge but you're 2 hrs 51 min away.
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Old 07-10-2020, 04:28   #10
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A little bit of a gap like MJMs is desirable, if the clamp fit all the way down it might not be able to tighten enough. But yours bmur66, looks excessive.

I'd do as Russ says and Dremel out the radius on the band, and get some longer screws.
Take one of your old screws into a hardware store that has one of those thread pitch checker plates so you know what to look for in a longer screw.

While it would have been nice if your barrel wasn't oversize and you could just slap on the Ultimak, it will be worth it to get that band fitted right and then enjoy your NY friendly carbine. Don't give up yet.
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Old 07-10-2020, 07:13   #11
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OK, OK I guess I won't give up on it even though I could probably get what I paid for it right now. And besides I can't locate a Browning BAR MK 3 DBM.
I have a 5/8" piece of round stock and some emery cloth. That should make it just right along with some 6-32 screws 3/8" long. I will give it a shot tonight and let you all know how I make out. Thanks
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Old 07-10-2020, 08:38   #12
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Originally Posted by bmur66 View Post
I have a 5/8" piece of round stock and some emery cloth. That should make it just right along with some 6-32 screws 3/8" long. I will give it a shot tonight and let you all know how I make out. Thanks
I think this is a good plan, but would work both the clamp and rail as required to make the Ultimak supplied screws work so everything is out of harms way...

And FWIW, this Ultimak didn't just jump right on my rifle with no problem
The front end of the Ultimak was about .020 too long vs the original upper gas block half. Used a belt sander to remove that much material from the front of the the Ultimak so it would clear the step in the barrel at the gas block. Then all of the screw holes lined up and it fits good with about .060 gap at the back/receiver end...
Who is to blame? Ruger? Ultimak? Both? I dont know.
Maybe I just can't follow simple instructions.
Hope this helps and good luck.
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Last edited by MJM59; 07-10-2020 at 09:25.
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Old 07-11-2020, 05:57   #13
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A little custom fitting and I believe she is good to go. Opened up the clamp and rail. Using supplied screws. Thanks all for the tips and encouragement
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Old 07-11-2020, 07:27   #14
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Great! Glad it worked out.
Use a little thread locker on all of the screws and you are all set.
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Last edited by MJM59; 07-11-2020 at 07:58.
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Old 07-15-2020, 19:40   #15
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Originally Posted by bmur66 View Post
I just want a good, reliable, mostly NY legal anti commie weapon. Any suggestions?
How about a Mini 14 ?

Should work just fine after you get your rail mounted and shoot it a little..

FYI after you get the screws in past the diameter of the bolt IE; in this case a little over 1/8" You have reached the max tensile strength of the bolt.

Most like 1.5 times the diameter just for a bit more safety. So try for 3/16 deep.

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Old 07-15-2020, 19:49   #16
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We had a standard of 4 threads above the fastener for a secure fit when I was doing aviation work in the National Guard. I realize some conditions may preclude that standard but I suggest you get longer screws for a secure fit.

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Old 07-15-2020, 20:41   #17
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More is not wrong unless it causes other problems. 1X diameter is minimum for strength in tension.

Once you've gone all the way thru the nut you have gotten as much strength as is available. The deal with the extra threads showing thru is so that the bolt threads are completely thru the locking part of the nut. Be it a Nyloc or deformed thread style of lock nut. This insures you are getting the most out of the nut.

On all Airplanes, all fasteners must have some locking feature. You can't have stuff coming loose and falling off the plane,,, You might hit a protester on the Brooklin Bridge or better yet DeBlasio!

On My Jeep every single bolt has either a self locking nut, Red Loctite, or Safety Wire on it and things like my steering shaft have both Loctite and Safety Wire insuring the bolts which replaced Set Screws in the U Joints don't come out.

Been there done that and it was a real PITB to get back to the trailer.

Randy
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