How to Preserve Your Mini's Life/Accuracy With Some Grease - Shooting Sports Forum


Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 family of rifles

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Old 06-27-2020, 12:28   #1
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How to Preserve Your Mini's Life/Accuracy With Some Grease

The Mini's trigger group slots into the barreled action, and is locked-up by hinging the trigger-guard down (ETA: rifle inverted) so that the trigger guard engages with mating surfaces on the rear, and forward parts, of the trigger group housing; BOTH forward, and rearward engagement points.

Same as with M1 and M-14/M1A rifles. I've seen many of such rifles with worn-out trigger guard engagement surfaces, and much worse, the engagements lugs on the trigger group housing.

This was because the users were never instructed to apply suitable GREASE to these points.

DON'T make this mistake!

Next time you have your Mini's trigger group out of the rifle, play with swinging open-and closed the trigger guard, in conjunction with the barreled action. Note how it pivots on a single point, and take further note how the trigger guard locks-up to both forward engagement points on the trigger group/barreled action, and the rearmost engagement point, where the end of the trigger guard "snaps-in".

These points are very much subject to wear from opening and closing the trigger guard. Such wear makes for sloppy tolerances and also inaccuracy, due to poor lock-up into the stock.

Take a very close look at the engagement surfaces on the forward part of the rifle. Carefully inspect them for wear. Same for the engagement hooks on the trigger guard, and their matching surfaces on the trigger guard itself.

I strongly suggest using a good grease on such points. Simple Synthetic CV joint grease (also useable for lubing the Bolt and Op-Rod) serves very well, and is dirt cheap at local auto parts store.

If these engagement surfaces are worn out, due to improper/never-applied grease application, there will be problems with positive lock-up to the stock, and attendant accuracy issues.

Worn trigger guard? Easy to replace. Worn engagement points on the trigger housing/action? Not so easy, and likely a trip back to Ruger.

Use good grease on ALL these points, and save some wear and tear.

Most GI guides for the GI rifles, and AFAIK the Ruger manual seldom mention this CRITICAL lubrication issue.

Sorry for being wordy.

Submitted for consideration.
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Last edited by RIBob; 07-02-2020 at 05:47.
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Old 06-29-2020, 21:19   #2
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Thanks for the reminder. I rarely break my broken in Mini any more but will check those areas. Thanks again.
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Old 06-30-2020, 10:35   #3
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Originally Posted by Hellgate View Post
Thanks for the reminder. I rarely break my broken in Mini any more but will check those areas. Thanks again.
You're welcome!
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Old 07-01-2020, 04:33   #4
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Good info. Thanks. Never gave that a thought.
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Old 07-01-2020, 04:54   #5
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I guess I'm not comprehending how opening your trigger guard a few times a year is going to cause wear.
It's not like your bolt and op-rod, that slam back and forth hundreds, maybe a couple thousand times a year.
I'm not seeing how there is excessive, repetitive movement on the trigger guard engagement points.

And I thought hinging the trigger guard up, not down is what engages the trigger group and locks it in. Down releases it.
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Old 07-01-2020, 05:00   #6
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Sandog, I believe you are correct.
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Old 07-02-2020, 05:45   #7
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Originally Posted by sandog View Post
I guess I'm not comprehending how opening your trigger guard a few times a year is going to cause wear.
It's not like your bolt and op-rod, that slam back and forth hundreds, maybe a couple thousand times a year.
I'm not seeing how there is excessive, repetitive movement on the trigger guard engagement points.

And I thought hinging the trigger guard up, not down is what engages the trigger group and locks it in. Down releases it.
You're correct about the hinging, but the principle still applies. I'll edit my post to clarify; Depends on how one is looking at the rifle when latching/unlatching it. My fault for not being precise.

You're also correct in that potential issue displays itself to the extent the trigger guard is opened and closed. The more it happens, the greater the wear.

My essential point is that if one applies a little grease in the right spots, such wear and tear will be almost eliminated, regardless of the frequency of use. Call it an insurance policy. A cheap and easy one.
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Old 07-15-2020, 20:34   #8
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One thing that does matter with the trigger guard is that just like a Garand, the Trigger should start resisting closing at about 45 degrees before completely closed. If it just closes with no resistance it is not holding the action in the stock firmly and it will move around which will affect accuracy and more so if the gun is over gassed and is beating the action around with every shot. Get some smaller gas bushings!

Another place to apply some grease is the underside of the rear action bolt shroud. The underside of where the caliber is written on the back of the receiver. The rear of the bolt hits that area with every shot and on Garands they recommend "Lubriplate Grease."

One tube will last 5 lifetimes.

Another wonder lube to look at for the bolt lugs and op rod is Vaseline. I like the little tubes you can get at the drug store for travel for a buck. You can apply it with another high tech device called a Q Tip. ;>)

Randy
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Old 07-15-2020, 23:10   #9
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Originally Posted by W.R.Buchanan View Post

Another place to apply some grease is the underside of the rear action bolt shroud. The underside of where the caliber is written on the back of the receiver. The rear of the bolt hits that area with every shot and on Garands they recommend "Lubriplate Grease."

One tube will last 5 lifetimes.

Another wonder lube to look at for the bolt lugs and op rod is Vaseline. I like the little tubes you can get at the drug store for travel for a buck. You can apply it with another high tech device called a Q Tip. ;>)

Randy
I have Lubriplate 130A applied to those areas, but thatís on top of having cleaned it well with solvent and applied air temp cured dry film lube thoroughly on those surfaces, the entire underside of receiver shroud, the upper bolt / oprod track, the inside of the stock metal oprod guide, the sides and bottom of the oprod itself, etc. itís a much slicker surface then even before the grease is applied

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Old 07-16-2020, 12:34   #10
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If it snaps together easy, it might just snap apart easy, and unexpectedly.
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Old 07-16-2020, 14:29   #11
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Isn’t the little toe on the end of the trigger guard bow supposed to prevent that from happening?
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Old 07-16-2020, 18:54   #12
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Yeah, I was just goofing.
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Old 07-19-2020, 14:02   #13
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pics please
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Old 07-19-2020, 15:21   #14
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Originally Posted by flashhole View Post
pics please
Since you ask, how about a video? https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE

Unfortunately, just about the only thing this guy neglects to mention are the contact surfaces where the trigger group/guard locks up to the receiver.

IMHO, he's a little negligent in not mentioning this specifically, although in the vid, at 2:20, he notes that lube should be applied to any parts where the original finish has been "rubbed-off". Hard to detect with Stainless Steel Minis, but this particular wear should be apparent with blued Minis. Certainly was detectable with much-used M1s and M-14s that I've personally seen.

FWIW, this guy uses a lot more grease/oil than I do, and makes scant mention about removing excess lube. Excess grease/lubricant becomes a dirt magnet. Sometimes less is more. YMMV.

Step (5) in "Additional Areas To Grease" (scroll down) in the following link might be instructive: http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-...veral%20times.

I apologize for belaboring the point, but since I was asked for evidence for my contention, I felt it necessary to add some comments/links.

Last edited by RIBob; 07-19-2020 at 16:10.
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