Issues with new 584 - Page 2 - Shooting Sports Forum


Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 family of rifles

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Old 06-12-2020, 20:38   #26
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Originally Posted by Gray View Post
STK,
Welcome to the forum!
About that crooked sight, I had one too. I “ fixed” it with a file. Since it was crooked and too thick anyway, I took the advice of COSteve and “straightened” it and thinned the sight to National Match specs with a flat file. Cold blued the exposed metal. My iron sight accuracy at 100 yards was greatly improved.
Next I installed the Tech Sight with the inserts ( old guy). My initial disappointment in my Mini 14 300 BLK combined with a few tools resulted in a fine shooter. When you reinstall your gas block, don’t forget to torque the screws. A Fat Wrench from Wheeler is invaluable for putting stuff back together properly.
Thanks Gray. I will definitely make sure to torque the gas block properly.
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Old 06-13-2020, 05:35   #27
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Thinning the front sight is a good thing. They are .080 from the factory, way too thick for good work, I having been thinning mine to .050" as well.
That, and the .040" ( or is it .042" ? ) insert in the Tech gives you more precision with the irons.
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Old 06-20-2020, 13:02   #28
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My Ultimak rail comes Monday and I just realized it requires gas block removal. Looks like I am doing that sooner than I thought, which is good because then I can get it aligned evenly. I see alot of people reference a Wheeler Fat Wrench for reinstallation, but mentioned issues getting the correct driver for it, what exactly will I need to buy extra for it? Also will the WHeeler wrench with the correct driver be adequate for the initial removal? Really paranoid about stripping the screws.
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Old 06-20-2020, 14:02   #29
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No reason to worry, just use a tight fitting wrench, not one with a worn tip.
If the screws have never been out, they are likely still staked from the factory.
You will put a lot of force on them, and think they won't move, but then they will, and do it with a weird "stroink" noise when they let go.
It would be a good idea to get a Wheeler Fat Wrench at some point, but you don't have to have it for the Ultimak install. The Wheeler is more helpful for reinstalling the screws. For a first time removal, see if you can find an Allen wrench with a longer handle for more leverage.
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Old 06-20-2020, 14:24   #30
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stk, it is likely the newer Minis aren't staked. My 181 is, my 583s aren't. 9/64 Allen wrench will do. You don't need anything else unless you want to get exact torque on each of the four screws. It's good thing, but do you exactly torque each lug-nut on the four wheels of your car? Your M-2 wrist will give you a pretty good match: exact torque is less important than equal torque. Cross-torquing, be gradual. Your wrist can be pretty accurate...

It is best, but not critical, but I chose to go with the accurate part and got an inch-pound driver. Probably over-kill, but a reasonable price through Amazon and it may prove handy for something else.

The key part is an even gap left-to-right and front-to-rear. Tighten as you would a wheel (cross pattern). You'll be good!
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Old 06-20-2020, 14:43   #31
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My 582 and 583 were not staked.
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Old 06-20-2020, 21:51   #32
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Ok thanks guys.

That wrench is hilarious Sandog.
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Old 06-22-2020, 21:44   #33
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Well that was easy enough. Found a wrench like the one Sandog showed the image of and had no problems.

All jokes aside the Ultimak rail had the necessary allen wrench with it and the removal and installation was a piece of cake.

Got the gas block snug and even with a criss cross tightening pattern with no problems. And now that the gaps are even on each side, I feel alot better.
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Old 06-23-2020, 05:22   #34
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Sometimes when you get the Ultimak on, you'll notice that it is canted a bit, so your dot appears leaning. Fortunately there is enough play with the bushing that you can straighten it.
Glad you got it installed easily.
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Old 07-31-2020, 23:24   #35
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Originally Posted by sandog View Post
Sometimes when you get the Ultimak on, you'll notice that it is canted a bit, so your dot appears leaning. Fortunately there is enough play with the bushing that you can straighten it.
Glad you got it installed easily.
Sandog,

I got the Fastfire mounted onto the Ultimak and I do indeed see that it is canted a little to the left. Will I still be able to sight it in or do I need to adjust the gas block so the sight is level?
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Old 08-01-2020, 04:22   #36
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You could sight it in but it will probably bug you to have it canted.
Loosen the gas block screws and the barrel band and try to get it straighter.

Have someone else check the level of it too. Sometimes, though, another person will have a different perception of what is level and what is canted.
I've shot other's scoped rifles and can't believe how canted the cross hairs are.
When I comment on that, they say it looks fine to them.

What's important is how it looks to you, as you'll be the one shooting it.
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