Originally Posted by Baltimoreed
Appreciate the input guys. Looks like it will be trial and error with the bullet, powder and recoil springs as the variables on the ruger. I shouldn’t have the op rod issues that the M1 has as the 300 is alot less juice but I’ll still have to pick the correct powder. My smith has the bbl done for the gas cylinder and should have the op rods done next month. Then we can do some ammo testing to see what works. Currently I’m building loads for my AR in 300blkout. Starting light and working up.
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You're doing load development for Ruger Mini 14 300 blackout?
If so, then it is a whole different discussion although some of the accuracy culprits of the gas system causing point of impact shifts are exaggerated with 300 blackout in Ruger Mini 14.
I have never shot a single round of factory ammo out of mine.
Cold bore shots depending on the quality of ammo has yielded me anywhere from 2 MOA to 4 MOA from the center where most shots land.
That might be my rifle being a lemon, haven't gotten around to wanting to put factory match ammo.
I should be able to squeeze out consistent 1.5 ish MOA 3 shot groups using match bullets with at least one powder, but to no avail.
Regarding blackout ammo, you can run as heavy pills as the 1/7 twist will allow.
Powders, any of the blackout powders will work in making the bullet go "pew".
The issue is gas port pressure for subs. Use the slowest burning blackout powder.
CFE BLK powder will cycle 200gr or 220gr subs in the Ruger Mini without a suppresor.
I don't plan on shooting any more subs, so I'm going to replace gas port bushing to smaller and op rod bushing and see if I can get more consistently better accuracy.
If it is still a turd on accuracy, I'll probably buy a box of factory match, test it, and if it fails I'll sell it for a Ruger American ranch AR mag in 300 blackout or possible get out of blackout and stick with 7.62x39.
Last edited by Havocsquad; 12-11-2019 at 10:10.
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