Oxpho blue? - Shooting Sports Forum


Finishes and Refinishing Parkerizing, bluing, basic refinishing.

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Old 12-10-2013, 16:14   #1
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Oxpho blue?

I have a RIA 1911 that I picked up cheap - previous owner sanded and painted with rustoleum any way... I have decided to use oxpho blue to refinish it.
Question - will the bluing go over the Parkerizing or what ever the original finish RIA uses? I have removed all the paint but there is still some of the original finish.

I'm not looking to make it a show piece, just a decent cheap coating that won't come off when using solvents to clean it. Taking to get a professional job is not an option - no money! and no where within 50miles to get it done. Trying to do this myself for as little as possible.
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:26   #2
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Brownell's Oxpho blue is a good blue, but I have only used it for touch up. Without knowing what RIA used on it originally, I couldn't give a definitive answer. It will be hard to get a good blued finish on it , IMO, without heating up and dipping in a bluing tank. I would recommend putting a spray on finish meant for firearms. Brownell's makes a bake on paint that comes in many colors, Gloss gun blue, matte black, stainless, graphite, grey. You can even do a two tone, slide and frame different colors.(If your gun's sights have tritium or plastic inserts, remove the sights before baking).Degrease all the parts well with TCE, brake cleaner, Acetone, etc. Use latex gloves so oil from your fingers doesn't recontaminate the metal. Put the parts in the oven to drive out any remaining moisture or solvents in the pores of the metal. Make sure the parts and the spray can are warm ( hair dryer works well). Use several light coats, use hair dryer on the parts in between coats. Put in oven for 2-3 hours at 200 degrees. Re assemble firearm. If the wife is going to object to the smell, they also have an air dry version ( it can also be baked as well to speed up curing). The air dry stuff takes a good 10-14 days to cure, depending on the humidity, before re assembly. A spray can will cost $15 plus shipping, but you'll have lots left over to do other guns or touch up your 1911. Cerakote is a more durable finish and comes in oven bake or air versions, and dozens of colors. But it doesn't come in a spray can, Brownell's sells a small spray gun for $30 or so that hooks up to your air compressor. Watch brownell's video or you tube vids beforehand. Here are some guns I've done with Brownell's Aluma Hyde and Cerakote:
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Oxpho blue?-ar-15-2.jpg   Oxpho blue?-kimber-target.jpg   Oxpho blue?-dsc00674.jpg   Oxpho blue?-dsc00947.jpg   Oxpho blue?-dsc01509.jpg  
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Last edited by sandog; 02-26-2014 at 04:39. Reason: typo
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Old 12-12-2013, 18:05   #3
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Thanks, Nice work!
I wanted to do a spray on finish like duracoat but I heard there are problems with humidity over 50% (I average 70%) and the issue with no where to bake!
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Old 12-15-2013, 12:25   #4
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Yes, if you could bake it the humidity issue would be no problem. 2 or 3 hours in the oven and the finish is cured. Got any bachelor friends that would let you use the oven at their place ? I'll post some pics in a few days of my Mini-14 done in Cerakote Flat Dark Earth.
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Old 12-16-2013, 21:25   #5
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Well so far just did a 2nd coat of oxpho, looking good!!!
I'm guessing RIA did it blue, can't tell where the old is or the new!
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Old 12-30-2013, 21:56   #6
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I picked up a model 39 marlin that had a lot of rust, WOW it looks like new!!!!!! Just follow the directions to the letter and you'll love the results. Liberty
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Old 12-30-2013, 22:54   #7
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Well after 3 coats.. I think I'm done - Looks great!
Unfortunately, I reassembled it before I took any pics!
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Old 02-01-2014, 23:15   #8
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Originally Posted by sharky8js View Post
Well after 3 coats.. I think I'm done - Looks great!
Unfortunately, I reassembled it before I took any pics!
Thanks for the great posts and thread. Oxpho blue is going on my "to buy" list from brownells once my bank account recovers a little. Got a bunch of small parts that need bluing and a beater Walther P1 that needs some TLC on the bbl/slide.

Best,
Grumpy
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Old 12-27-2019, 22:34   #9
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I've used Oxpho and found it works fine on some gun steels but not others.
Same thing with Blue wonder works on some not all.
Tetra Gun Blue also works as well as Oxpho.
Birchwood Casey touch up pen works well on most scratches.
I've had to use Classic American Rust Bluing Solution on some to get a decent finish.
Hoppe's also has a cold blue kit, I haven't had a chance to try it yet.
I really like Plum Brown for older rifles and shotguns.
All gun steels are not the same, it pays to test a spot some place that is not seen first.
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Old 12-29-2019, 19:50   #10
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1 part water
1 part lye flake
1 part soda ash
brought to a boil

Winchesters original blueing salts recipe (translated to modern chemical names).
Still the best looking blue there is............
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Old 12-30-2019, 15:49   #11
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Rocky: Question
Which type lye flakes KOH or NaOH or does it matter?
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Old 12-30-2019, 17:10   #12
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Originally Posted by Sparkie View Post
Rocky: Question
Which type lye flakes KOH or NaOH or does it matter?
not sure......the old names were borax flakes and Potassium nitrate granules

I used to buy both by the 50# bag at the chemical supply house ........
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Old 12-31-2019, 11:48   #13
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Ok now I'm more confused.

Borax is a natural mineral with a chemical formula Na 2 B 4 O 7 • 10H 2 O. Borax also is known as sodium borate, sodium tetraborate, or disodium tetraborate. It is one of the most important boron compounds. The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) name for borax is sodium tetraborate decahydrate.
Borax is a salt of boric acid.


Potassium Nitrate Granule - KNO3. Potassium nitrate is used in a variation of ways, but mostly seen in fertilizers and the removal of tree stumps. Produces wonderful nourishments for plants and promotes healthy and efficient plant growth as well.


Potassium nitrate, also known as saltpeter (saltpetre), niter (nitre) or nitrate of potash, forms naturally as deposits in caves where damp conditions combine with alkali, decaying organic material, oxygen and little sunlight and in cellars, dung heaps and other man-made areas where similar conditions exist.


Sodium carbonate, Na 2 C O 3, (also known as washing soda, soda ash and soda crystals) is the inorganic compound with the formula Na 2 CO 3 and its various hydrates. All forms are white, water-soluble salts. All forms have a strongly alkaline taste and give moderately alkaline solutions in water.


Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye and caustic soda, is an inorganic compound with the formula NaOH. It is a white solid ionic compound consisting of sodium cations Na⁺ and hydroxide anions OH⁻. Sodium hydroxide is a highly caustic base and alkali that decomposes proteins at ordinary ambient temperatures and may cause severe chemical burns.


Potassium Hydroxide Lye Flakes (KOH) Potassium hydroxide is lye for soft and liquid soap making. Also known as KOH or Caustic Potash, it is a colorless white solid commonly found in flake, pellet or powder form. Like sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide is an essential ingredient in soap making as you can't make soap without lye.
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Old 01-01-2020, 01:30   #14
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THAT'S IT !!
thanks for helping my memory w/o having to dig thru my antique gunsmithing books !

Salt Petre & Lye Flake........!!!!
(Caustic Soda flakes & Salt Petre granules)
it's been several years since I bought any (as you can tell)

when mixed and boiled with (I got the formula wrong, my memory is fading) a 2/part water to 1 & 1 parts solution of each it makes a slimy liquid that is EXTREMELY caustic ( will explode aluminum and dissolve skin on contact & will also explode if cold water is introduced to the boiling tank)and will form the most fabulous black / blue rust you could ever want....protecting metal from red rust.
MUST be boiled absolutely clean of grease & oil in a separate tank (after polishing) to raise metal temp before immersion in blueing tank......then of course boiled at least 2x in clean water to stop "salts creep" and "set" the blueing..

my arms look like i'm a smallpox survivor from the "pock" scars from each individual drop that ate through my denim shirts when my shop was open.....but I wouldn't trade those scars (and memories) for anything.
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Old 01-01-2020, 15:24   #15
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Rocky:
I'll give this a try, was thinking about smoke bluing till I found out what was involved.
I like the darker black finish vs blue. I have a welders leather which should afford better protection then denim.
Thanx for the recipe.
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Old 01-02-2020, 00:24   #16
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try perhaps an old revolver or pistol (small scale) in an enamel roaster pan (or such) on the kitchen stove first (unless you already have stainless steel blueing tanks) to make sure you like the finish and get used to using this formula.
P.S. on Dan Wesson revolvers or more modern HARDENED steels, it will only turn it pink.
but on older guns, it's GREAT !!

wear eye protection, remember NO ALUMINUM, and take care.....
good luck!
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Old 01-02-2020, 15:50   #17
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That was a mistake, the wife was reading over my shoulder and saw pink now I'm in trouble.
I can't take her to a gs anymore Pink Camo AR is all I hear for a week later.
Yea I have a couple SS tanks.
Again Thanx...
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