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I just my first SKS, a yugo m59/66. I disassembled it, cleaned it, put it back together, but it won't cycle automatically. You can see the bolt slide back about an inch after each shot, but that's it. What would be some things to check? Thank you for any advice.
 

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maybe 2 things i hope

yes , with yugo do not use the wolf classic it won't cycle the bolt "most of the time' but reg wolf is fine, last thing make sure you put the spring in the right way the curve side goes in first. Hope that helps new to the boards good luck.
 

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The gas button needs to be over to the right when firing so the bolt will cycle. The easy way to remember this is that when the button is in place it will prvent the grenade launcher sights from being raised.

Also be sure that the button "clicks" into place when it's moved over - if not the button will drift towards the center and constrict the gas tube, resulting in the weak cycling you described.

One more thing - lots of time cosmoline dries up in the orifice between the gas tube and barrel - make sure that's been well cleaned and you can poke a pipe cleaner or Q-tip stick through it.
 

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Your problem isn't ammo, it's the gas valve. If it leaks just a little...you got a single shot, and most of the time they look OK.
You can fit a thin brass washer in the gas tube joint,but that is only a temporary bandaide.

Get a new gas valve. I had one machined for me out of stainless steel and made it just a hair oversize Shouldn't cost you more than 20 bucks at a local machine shop and the sstainless will not erode in your lifetime...solved the problem permanently and I can still launch grenades, when I feel like playing!

By the way...you can launch blue NATO practice grenades all day long (they're reusable) with the right blanc load...no noise, but it is FUN and completely legal.
New replacement gas valves can be had from GUNPARTS(Numrich)about $15 as can practice grenades about $40. Stainless valves have to made.
 

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Your problem isn't ammo, it's the gas valve. If it leaks just a little...you got a single shot, and most of the time they look OK.
You can fit a thin brass washer in the gas tube joint,but that is only a temporary bandaide.

Get a new gas valve. I had one machined for me out of stainless steel and made it just a hair oversize Shouldn't cost you more than 20 bucks at a local machine shop and the sstainless will not erode in your lifetime...solved the problem permanently and I can still launch grenades, when I feel like playing!

By the way...you can launch blue NATO practice grenades all day long (they're reusable) with the right blanc load...no noise, but it is FUN and completely legal.
New replacement gas valves can be had from GUNPARTS(Numrich)about $15 as can practice grenades about $40. Stainless valves have to made.
did you have your new valve heat treated? if its not heat treated it probably wont last forever its could also warp over time making it impossible to turn the valve and/or making it nearly impossible to remove if ya had to replace it.

I strongly suggest buying your new gas valve from CNC Warrior http://www.cncwarrior.com their valves are heat treated stainless steel and are made to slightly larger specs than the original valve which helps cycling problems drastically. their price is $9.99 if I remember correctly shipping is 4 or 5 bucks. good luck
 

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It's heat treated. The fellow I had make it was a fellow armorer, who had made a few of them before. Your post is very useful as cncwarriors is virtualy the same thing.....but it's available. I wish they had their product back when I had my headache!
 

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yes , with yugo do not use the wolf classic it won't cycle the bolt "most of the time' but reg wolf is fine, last thing make sure you put the spring in the right way the curve side goes in first. Hope that helps new to the boards good luck.
I haven't ever had an ammo problem with any Russian supplier with a Yugo SKS.

My first Yugo 59/66 Fired fine on ANYTHING. (Sold it)

My Second Yugo 59 (Without Grenade Launcher) Was a Bolt Action Rifle. I changed the gas rod out, the piston, and it still was a bolt action rifle. I believe the headspacing was either wrong on the gun or the chamber was eroded enough that it was just allowing the casing to expand way too much jamming it. (You had to tap the bolt with a small hammer to get it to eject the shell). (Took this back to the store I purchased it at and they traded it in and gave me another 59/66 for it. - I really didn't care if it had a grenade launcher on it or not, I just wanted a SKS that shot).

My Third Yugo 59/66 Fires anything and cyles fine.

My point is that these are older guns and if they have been used, theres a chance that the chambers could be worn and this would explain many of the guns not cycling. Other than the obvious (Like the valve turned off on the grenade launcher versions (59/66).)

So far I like the SKS's since I've bought mine mainly to be a bush/hog hunting gun. (If I scratch it or get it muddy, I really don't care). And of course they are fun to shoot and I have a lot of ammunition for the guns (Also a AK owner)
 

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SKS at local Gun Shop

I was in one of our gun shops the other day and two fellows were looking at an SKS. A buddy of mine bought one not too long ago and really likes it, although he wants to reload but having a difficult time finding brass. I walked over and noticed two in the vault. I asked to see one that had the grenade launcher and bayonet. Out of curiosity I asked the price. He said $165. The gun looked in excellent condition, not like some I have seen on the shelf in other stores. He said it was made in Yugoslavia. I asked him if it was made like a Yugo. I received a little laughter, but not much information. The other one was made in China. I asked to see it, but one of the two fellows had just purchased it.

How do you tell whether an SKS is in good condition with reference to the barrel, gas system, bolt action, etc. This one didn't have any dings in the wood and the metal parts looked like everything was in excellent condition.

Ray
 

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Hawk, some people have their own idea of what "good" condition means. For myself, an SKS in the condition you describe sounds more like very good-to-excellent, and from what I've seen around in the way of Yugo M59/66's that's very likely what it is.

You might want to ask the counter guy if you can remove the receiver cover to get the bolt, carrier and spring out of the way for a good long look down the bore and into the chamber. Those are the places you'll probably see anything amiss to start with. I don't know if you're aware, but Yugo bores are not chrome-lined and thus are more prone to have pitting than other kommie weapons. I have 3 Yugos and none has any sign of things like that, despite the lack of chrome.

By the way, if it is indeed in excellent shape you might want to move on it at that price. It's not exactly a steal but it's better than I've seen around here in a long time.

Hope this helped.
 

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Thanks for the information. After teaching in a six hour plus handgun class Saturday and then spending over an hour on the range with the students in 24 degree weather with a 15 mile an hour wind blowing, I am having lower back problems for the past two days. Hopefully it will be better so I can get out tomorrow. I'll go back to the gun shop and do as you instructed on looking at the bore.

Ray
 

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Hey, you were talking about changing the gas valve on the SKS and i looked at it on the web site you added, thanks. One question, I am brand new to the SKS thing and I am having cycling issues as well. How may gas pistons or are in my yuga sks. and should I change them while changing the gas valve
 

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i had a Yugo. Good gun. The problem is it's over sprung. If you cut one inch off the recoil spring and make the short op rod spring three coils shorter it will work great.
 

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My Yugo had cosmoline in the gas valve where the grenade launcer was switched on and off. I had to take everything apart and get the cosmo out. kwg
 

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You can make gasket for a leaky Yugo out of a paper clip find a drill bit that is the same size as the gas block bend a paper clip around the drill bit leave a 1/16 in gap were the ends meet.
51
 

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The Yugo is oversprung. Shorten the short first "op rod" spring and it will cycle fine. Do a quarter of an inch at a time and test fire. It's far too stiff than it needs to be.
 
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