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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Afternoon everyone, my first post...

I bought a s/h Mini 14 (in the UK so it's a straight pull) and fitted it to a Muzzelite Bullpup stock. I like it anyway... :p

The rifle is ridiculously hard to cock! Even with no rounds in the magazine, it can take a real good pull to cock - worse when extracting and cocking :huh:

Can anyone shed light on this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's the only type of rifle us Brits can own - we can have 22 rimfire semi-autos but nothing of 'proper' caliber :angry:

When cocked, the slide pulls back fine. I've sprayed it with white lithium grease as well as the trigger mechanism.

I'm not sure exactly which model I have (I'll check the serial when I get home from work), it has a black plastic stock, stainless mechanism and doesn't have screws holding it together, just the trigger gaurd release and 4 Allen bolts at the front clamping the barrel to the stock.
 

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;)Howdy Nitrowing-It sounds like the hammer is binding on the back of the bolt where the hammer is cocked by the bolt moving rearward.I have a newer mini(580 series) that had a similar problem,but after some"buffing" with the dremel tool it has become noticeably less drag.Also check where the oprod attaches to the bolt(pivot cam area) for proper lubrication.One other spot that causes drag is the top back portion of the bolt where it contacts the receiver on rearward movement,sometimes the reciever is a little rough and can use some polishing.Hope this helps...........;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll strip it, take photos and see what you think tomorrow night (CSI is on :D )
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The guide rod was inserted correctly.
I'm uploading to photobucket the strip down and close up pictures.
The only part I don't really like the look/feel of is the bolt itself - seems to be rough looking bits and a few sharp edges on there...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)






 

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If you want my advice on how to fix your problem, here it is: throw the bullpup stock away!!

I had one, same crappy action bind. Your just glad you dont have it in a semi-auto rifle, jams up alot. The guide has nothing to slide on (as it does in the conventional stocks) so it torques and binds.

Im glad I got mine cheap, it went in the trash shortly after. Looks cool, crappy construction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·






 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

 

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The only lube I see is in the trigger housing. You need some good gun grease on that bolt, slide and slots. I don't no anything about the bullpup stock but you might try a standard stock.
Does the bolt and slide work without the trigger housing and in the stock?
 

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The guide has nothing to slide on (as it does in the conventional stocks) so it torques and binds.
That was my 2nd thought, the "Slide rod Assembly" under side slides on the metal "Forarm Liner & Stock Cap Assembly". Without it the Slide Rod will have to slide on the stock which may be rough. It also serves to guide the Slide Rod Assembly gas piston hole onto the Gas Piston. Without it there could be gas piston impact damage.
 

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Grease the bolt locking lugs top/bottom, and rear only, the hammer nose and the concave surface the bolt rides on, the cuts the bolt lugs ride in and the op rod rides in on the side of the action. Grease the op rod spring and guide, but not enough that it rubs out between the coils.

Oil the pivot points and pins for the hammer, trigger and sear, just a drop.

There shouldn't be any oil or grease anywhere else. It will attract dirt and cause trouble eventually.

To get a really good run down on what and how to lube the mini, do a Google search for a M14 operator's manual. The instructions are virtually identical. The grease should be similar also, Plastilube or Lubriplate as on the Garand or M14. Or, if they aren't available, a thick, sticky high-temperature grease. White Lithium may tend to fly off the bolt and oprod until the carrier dries. Besides, it's unsightly. Real grease is brownish-amber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The only lube I see is in the trigger housing. You need some good gun grease on that bolt, slide and slots. I don't no anything about the bullpup stock but you might try a standard stock.
Does the bolt and slide work without the trigger housing and in the stock?
I wiped all the grease off to show the state of the metal work. The bolt and slide move freely in the housing.

That was my 2nd thought, the "Slide rod Assembly" under side slides on the metal "Forarm Liner & Stock Cap Assembly". Without it the Slide Rod will have to slide on the stock which may be rough. It also serves to guide the Slide Rod Assembly gas piston hole onto the Gas Piston. Without it there could be gas piston impact damage.
There's no gas parts in this rifle - not allowed in the UK :(

The binding seems to start as I pull back the cocking handle, just as the bolt starts to unlock and the hammer is coming under tension. One the rifle is cocked, there is no problem in cycling the action - just in cocking it.

I'll rebuild it in the original stock (only under duress!!!) tonight and see if the same problem is evident.

The furball was supervising me ;)
 

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I'll rebuild it in the original stock (only under duress!!!) tonight and see if the same problem is evident.
I can guarantee you that once re-assembled in the correct stock with the metal liner guide you wont have another issue. The Muzzie has very little inside and it leads to a very sloppy chambering action. Ok for an AK, not on a mini.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I had a good look at the original stock and decided to make some guides for the slide to run on to stop it rattling around inside the new stock.
It cocks much easier now and I took it to the range to try it out again. I pulled 80 rounds through and stripped it to have a look at what sort of wear the guides are receiving.
The guides are made from 20x5mm white plastic stuck to the stock and trigger slide with double sided sticky foam (under 1mm thickness x 20mm). The guide on the ejection port side has a strip of aluminium (0.016) sicky foamed on to the plastic guide.


 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi all again :)
Just a quick update. I've put over 1000 rounds through this now and the stuck on plastic guides work perfectly 90% of the time - good enough that I haven't been tempted to mess about with it.
I had quite a few issues with the scope mounting (solved with epoxy and cling film) - now just concentrating on trying to get it accurate - the best I've managed is a 5" group @ 100 yards :(
 
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