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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The 16" tapered barrel tactical will string upwards 6" @50 yds in about 15 shots firing about 1 round per second. It's been cryo treated and still strings. I'm thinking the Mo-Rod with two clamps might stabilize better but the Accu-Strut Socom looks better. The gas block will get dimpled. Other suggestions? This gun was to be used in Practical Rifle competition but a difference of 6"@50 yds translates into a whole lot higher at 200yds once it's heated up so it's a no go til the stringing is solved.
 

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Operation:Mindcrime
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6"@50yds, holy crap! My 185 shot better than that without an Accu-strut at 100yds. Damn!

Honestly, as that is with the shorter barrel (16" tapered, right?), and because its newer, I might even send it back to Ruger

Okay, so what ammo are you using?

Scope or irons?

Do you have a trigger job?

I would suggest getting the Accu-strut Socom. Does the Mo-Rod even fit on the tapered barrel?
 

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Ive put a Socom version on one of mine, its a Tapered ranch 580, accuracy has improved a little and since then there have been no strings attached .
 

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Where did you have it cryoed? It sounds like a bad cryo job. I would call them and see if they would do it again n/c! Some bench shooters will cryo a gun 5-6x for best results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's a 580 series. Can't be sure who cryo'd it. I think 300 Below (company was in Illinois).
Iron sights using 55FMJ handloads from sandbags on a 6" bull with a good sight picture. The width of the groups was ~1.5". I have smoothed the trigger with lapping compound and it is better than any AR I have shot (good crisp let off).
 

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I might send it back too... I have a tactical model, completely stock and I've had no issues except my rear sight coming loose... Definitely no stringing, even after rapid fire mag dumps...

Btw, how far does yours eject brass too?... I've heard the stories on here, but the farthest mine has ejected was 16 feet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stk&eggs,
Mine threw brass into low orbit so I put in a .040 gas port bushing and it still throws it forcefully out at 4 o'clock. I sometimes find it 30-40 feet away on the concrete of the covered range. My other Mini tosses brass out at 1:30 8-10 feet with the .045 bushing (just where I want it).
 

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Operation:Mindcrime
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Is it me, or are the new Minis being more problematic?
 

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I'm not too worried about the rear sight, I figure I'm better off going with the tech sights anyways...

otherwise I gotta say I'm pleasantly surprised with my rifle... It's a 583 series btw.

I've got her pretty much broken in now, so next time out I'm puttin the buffer in the rear. Maybe I can knock the brass down an extra foot or two.
 

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Are you using a ASI gas bushing in your 580? That would explain the harder ejection with the .040"
Honestly a .040" bushing is mostly too small for most mini's, if cut to the right size/length.
ASI makes a in between size to fit the old mini's and new mini's. Problem is they take different length gas bushings. ASI's bushings are either too short or too long, short gas blow by, long good seal but risk peening the gas bushing (can be a bear to get out) or cracking the top of the gas block.
Based on feedback a 580 with the flanged barrel should be using a .045"-.050" gas bushing if it's cut correctly.
Also worth noting that the gas bushing acts as a key in keeping the gas block in place.
Would it cause 6" stringing at 50 yards with the wrong size bushing? I doubt it but it sure won't help it, however it may be a connected issue with the gas block, heat and contact pressure on the bottom of the stock/gas block fit.
The gas block assembly is a source of a lot of accuracy problems on the mini. Let me clarify, not just the gas block but the entire set of forces with the op-rod, spring and re-chambering of the semi-auto action. The gas forces start on the barrel through the resistance of the recoil spring as soon as the bullet passes the gas port, even though the op-rod hasn't moved. If you want to know how accurate your mini is start with a solid gas bushing turning it into a single shot that will give you a good baseline.

What series is your other mini?

As far as struts go. I would go with a three point contact, 2 clamps and set screw. It's the 2 clamps that will counter the flex in the barrel.

But my first recommendation would be changing the bushing to get the ejection forces controlled.

If it's ejecting 30-40 feet that is about twice as far as it should be and shows there is way too much gas going into the system, remember too where the gas is vented, into the barrel/chamber area, so more gas = more heat. The choate handguards do a better job of venting the heat than the stock handguards.
 
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