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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been flapping my gums on and off on this board for a year now about the rifle I'm building. It finally lives. No pics of the rifle yet (too ugly, stock's not done yet), but I did scan in some pictures of the post break-in groups. Gotta redo the bedding. It was a first time thing for me and a couple of spots came out not quite to my liking. The pictures will show you the flyer problem I have (first round). I think the two are linked, how ' bout you? Yes the grid is 1/4" squares.
 

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Hmmm....first shot flyers...tough call on the bedding issue. Especially with just four groups. Usually I like to see at least 10-20 groups to see if a defined pattern exists.

One thing to point out....make sure you have checked your shooting form and are familiar with common shooting error correction. First shots are usually where the most common problems of jerking, heeling and pushing occur...and from the groups shown it looks like the flyers are in those locations.

To see more cleary what I mean, check out this chart:

http://www.shootingsite.com/articulos/Erro...0correction.htm

If you can find access to one in your area, a test run with a machine rest can point out first shot flyers real quickly.

Good luck.
 

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I believe the horizontal error may be due to bedding, if you are using the stock reignforcement both sides have to be bedded (assuming you have a trigger job, if not a hard trigger will cause a lot of error), The vertical error may be due to the shooting hand pressure on the stock varying each shot, When working up loads I prefer to squeeze the trigger between fore finger, and thumb on trigger guard, and always push rifle fwd to bench rest stop after each shot.. My left hand is at the rabit ears unde my rt. arm pit. I don't mean to be to simplistic, but it's hard to know what another shooter knows, you know?:) Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know what you mean cajun... I'm pretty sure of my form, especially at this session as I had the priveledge of shooting with a Mr. Don Barnes that day at his range. Don's a 64 year old man who's been shooting a rifle all his life. Mostly at bench rest matches. I learn more in five minutes around that man than in a year putzing around on my own. This was shot over a 'real' bench rest (a treat to be sure) on powdered bags, the scope set below maximum magnification for best clarity, a tap of my thumb on the scope would not even bounce the reticle, pushed carefully forward after each shot to come right back the the same aiming point, my left hand on the rear bag but not sqeezing, my right thumb laid alongside the stock instead of over it, holding the grip just so...Benchresters absolutely amaze me. I shot one of his rifles, a 40X in 6PPC, and measured a five shot group in the low 3's. He puts'em in the low 2's with that rifle. Anyhow, the bedding method I used is detailed in Jerry Kuhnhausen's 30 Cal service rifle shop manual. I followed the extreme strength procedure (the entire reciever cutout is glassed with a rear pillar), and followed his directions for match conditioning the liner and reciever legs. The liner is a permanent glue-in. What went wrong on me was 1) I did not properly apply upward pressure on the bbl behind the gas block (too much lift, receiver does not fully seat flat against stock) and 2) I used too much putty in the receiver leg recesses (over cautious) so it distended and left the rear face of the receiver legs not fully supported. Loads were Win brass, Fed 205 primers, 69gr Sierra MK's over 25.5gr of W748. Did not chronograph. The rifle has a 24" bbl in 416SS, 1x8" twist, and is .850 dia from 2.5" forward of the reciever to the muzzle. This required building a new gas block with a lower piston (in-line with the main spring) and the slide block was plugged, welded, annealed and redrilled. Overkill? Maybe, but it sure gets a reaction.
 

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hey reloader, it was a kick meeting you at the gunshop this afternoon, i forgot to invite you out to my place to shoot, maybe next time i will have some manners, was great meeting you...gut
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Gut-
Sounds good, let's do. See my profile for my e-mail. I just finished the stock and am waiting on my high rings (any minute now...darn UPS driver's on a coffe break or something). Ladies and gentlemen, we have an eyewitness. Gutpile has seen the stock with his own two eyes. Progress.
 

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Originally posted by reloader
............... Loads were Win brass, Fed 205 primers, 69gr Sierra MK's over 25.5gr of W748. Did not chronograph. The rifle has a 24" bbl in 416SS, 1x8" twist, and is .850 dia from 2.5" forward of the reciever to the muzzle.
I'm looking for a good reliable load for the Mini 14. You sound likeyou reload a lot and have lots of knowledge. :)

If you were using W748, what charge and bullet would you recommend for a self-defense type load? Reliability and bullet performance would be most important.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
First pick a bullet that will do the job. I'm really partial to Sierra becaause their bullets do the job well and for half what some of the other makers get. I hunt with Sierra Game Kings. They are just a good, controlled expansion bullet. There's serious cause for concern about overpenetration... through the scuzzball in your living room, through the wall behind him and into the next room. However, I did a close penetration test with a 55gr FMJ load and the result was shocking. At a 20 degree angle the slug passed through a wet phone book and lodged in the 2" pine plank immediately behind the book. The really shocking part is I fired that round at a distance of only 4 feet. Not at all what I expected. Anyhoo, always play it safe and if you feel overpenetration will be an issue in your application, get a shotgun.
Sierra's 55gr Blitz bullet would be an adequate choice. Over 26.7gr of 748 you're looking at 3200 fps. This is the max load, DO NOT START THERE. Every rifle is different. The Blitz bullet is Sierra's varmit bullet. At close range defensive situations the results would be messy. The 55gr will stabilize well enough in a mini and the blitz is a bullet with a very thin jacket for frangibility. Sierra does have one warning that may apply to the mini. 1X9 or faster bbls may cause these bullets to disintegrate in flight. (Just found that in the manual) If that is the case, the semi-pointed or flat base spitzer would do as well, though they are harder and would penetrate more.
 

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Thanks Reloader. Yes, I read where the lighter, thinner jacketed bullets might not be the best choice with a 1-9 twist. I think my Ruger has that, but not sure. I've been looking at the Sierra 60 gr Varminter. It sounds like it might work better at the higher twists.

Actually, when I said a self defense rounds earlier, I didn't really mean in a house. I have a shotgun for that. I was thinking more of a long-range self defense, like "repelling boarders" so to speak! :eek:
 

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Hey DK, I'm just finishing on a similar load. Sierra 63 gr SP varmiters, with 22 gr of RL-7 (the 748 wouldn't shoot well in my mini) , Federal match primers. It shoots 1.1"x1.43" average groups 5 rd for 6 groups, at 100 yds. in my tuned stock mini. (I am also working on my BR techniques to tighten the verticle grouping) I wanted a bullet that penetrates a little better than hollow points, or Ballistic tips. I have ordered some more as I ran out. My goal was Hunting coyote up to 300 yds. Will shoot somemore, tweek here, and there, and document the velocity with my chrony, in a week or two.
 

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Originally posted by cajungeo
He...Sierra 63 gr SP varmiters, with 22 gr of RL-7 (the 748 wouldn't shoot well in my mini) , Federal match primers.....
Thanks. You are FL sizing right? What OAL are you using? If you are seating the bullet so it's just "off the rifling", how far off is it?

Yeah, I'd like to year about your future load tests. So let us know!:)

Good luck with those kiy-otes.
 

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Doug, I full size, and seat the bullet to 2.265" OAL, as this just clears the inside of the mag. I don't go to the lands 2.290" as the bullets won't fit in the mag. So I'm about .025 " off the lands. I didn't want to single feed the semi auto. I had used IMR 4064, BLC-2, and Win 748, 2 1/2" to 3" groups, at 100 yd. I had almost given up using the bullet till I tried the RL-7. Another good powder to try is H 335. I haven't tried it yet, but others have with good results. Your results may very, as each mini is different. Start 10% lower, and work up to max. pressure, then back for best accuracy, to be safe. I try to do both at the same time, with 2 - 5 shot groups each at 1/2 grain increments working up to max pressure, documenting each group. When I find a promising area, I drop .5 gr below to .5 above, in .2 gr increments (2 groups each) to narrow it down.
I weigh my brass, and keep it less than 1 gr diff. lightest to heavest. Watch the trim length, don't let it go over the max. , and keep the cases in each group the same. I am fortunate to live only 6 miles from the range, and a powder , and primer warehouse. Be careful, and be patient. Good luck
 

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Cajungeo, thanks for the good info on the Mini load. I've put it on my list of things to try. I will have to try a load with W748, and if it doesn't seem to be working, I'll get some RL7 and give it a try.

Thanks for the OAL length info. I am pretty new at rifle reloading, but have done 20 years or so of pistol reloading, mainly target loads in 38 spcl and 45 acp.
 

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Doug if you haven't already, I would highly recommend the Lyman 47th Reloading Handbook. It gives you very detailed info on each stage of reloading, with lots of pictures, so you really understand what you are doing, in a safe way. Most other manuals give a few pages of of basic info, the rest is data. 1/3 of the Lymans manual explanes the how, and why. It has loading data, but dosen't have the balistics charts.
The Win 748 is a good powder, I was surprised it didn't work for me, but it work very well in my 308 Rem. Let us know how it works for your mini!
 

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Thanks. I'll put the Lyman manual on my list. The last loading manual I bought was about 15 years ago!
 
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