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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently put a spring kit in my 10/22 that reduced the trigger pull down to about 3 lbs. I went out to the range and it worked great. About a week later i went out again with the same ammo(Remington Thunderbolts), and about every third or fourth shot wouldn't fire. Looking at the casings, none of them seemed to be indented that much. Should I put my stock springs back in, or is there something I am missing. I really like my reduced pull and would like to keep it if all possible. Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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goldfishranger
What spring kit are you using? From my understanding and my experience with the VQ hammer, the best hammer return spring is the one in the 10/22. VQ has a spring, but everyone that I spoke with stated do not use it. Leave the ruger 10/22 spring in.
So I did and love the results! The spring I am speaking of is B-44 in the trigger guard assemebly. Also make sure that your B-42 spring in the trigger guard assemebly has not slipped from where its suppost to be.

http://www.ontargetguns.com/1022.pdf

Edit:
cajungeo in the post below called me a wolf. Should I be offended? Should I think of that as being a complement? Wolfs are bigger and stronger, but less cunning as I. Hummmm.... wonder if cajungeo has any chickens????
 

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Welcome to the forum goldfishranger. Wolf is correct. The std hammer spring is stronger. This will give you a stronger pin strike, but won't change your trigger pull. I haven't had any trouble with my Volquartsen replacement spring yet, but after reading this thread: http://www.perfectunion.com/forums/showthr...=&threadid=3568 I am going to see if the std ruger spring will give a more consistant fire. Will check velocity, and POI with my cronygraph.

You may also check your firing pin to see if it's movement is free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks a lot guys, I put the stock hammer return spring in and it worked great. And just like you said, i still have a light trigger pull. I didn't personally notice a difference in the point of impact with the two different springs(but i wasn't paying much attention either). It will be interesting to get back the results of the cronygraph. Thanks again, lots of great info.

By the way, it was a Patriot brand kit, just something i picked up off of e-bay.
 

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Have you tried cleaning? I used to have that same problem, before I knew how to take my 10/22 apart. After I did, I found that the channel where the firing pin slides back and forth in was totally gunked up. After cleaning everything and giving it some teflon oil, there wasn't a single misfire ever again. I just take my receiver out every so often and give everything a good cleaning. Works for me.

TheGermanGuy :sniper:

P.S.: That occured obviously BEFORE I did my triggerjob. Meaning WITH the original Ruger hammer spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
She's clean as a whistle. When I put the trigger kit in a stripped the reciever and cleaned everything, the firing pin moves freely. So that isn't it.
 

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I'm glad to hear that you're taking good care of her, unfortunately I wasn't of much help though. So good luck with that spring, and I'm dying to hear about Cajun's test results.

TheGermanGuy :sniper:
 

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This is the severe weather months here, with rain, and this week end wind. Didn't get to the range as the wind was about 20 mph. Will try next weekend. Will do test with Winchester Dynapoints, and my chroney, and 2 trigger groups. One with the Volquartsen springs, and the other with the std Ruger springs. Same rifle, same scope, and settings. Bottom line I expect the big diff in their shoots were the stock to v block toruqe. My bedding job, and free floating barrel & torque will correct this. I expect not much diff., But will keep an open mind if results are different.
 

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Hey Cajun, in your last post you mentioned a torque on the stock to V-block. Now this is the first I've read on this and wondering what it could be. Is it a standard torque or something special?
Since I'm in the process of bedding and all, I will have to bring my trusty torque wrench home and make sure I have it right.
Thanks,
Spud :usa:
 

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Hey spud, I asked Ruger what the torque is on these screws, and they said "Hand tight". I have a feeling they ain't gonna tell us. I use proscess specs, from work for this fastner into alum (This receiver isn't good ole T-6 aircraft alum, the ruger is softer). I use 20-25 in-lb (flight line torque);) Same with the stock take down screw. The important thing is to re-torque to the same setting or feel.

You can see more torque will tend to pull it down more , and the barrel is pinched between the thin aluminum receiver, and any harmonic tuner or pad you have under the barrel. It can change your harmonics, (group size, and poi) Next time your at the range try it. I have and mine changes. So I torque all 3 of these screws the same. Tomorrow I'm buying a torque wrench at sears, 25-250 in-lbs for $69. I take mine apart more than most, because of some members questions, causes me to take mine apart, and have a look see. Works for me. ;)
 

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Cajun,
Well, I'd probably go to the specified nominal torque listed for a screw going into alum as well. This block must be something softer than 4041T6, But hardly SO. I understand "Flight line torque";) hand tight and then a budge. But I figure that torqueing each time for assembly to the same figures will definitely keep them in the 10-ring. Or the critter!
I bet you do take yours apart more than most. But you do come up with the answers and that is appreciated.
Spud :usa:
 
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