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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to mention that all of my modifications in no are permanent except for polishing metal surfaces and an over travel stop.

What I had found is that the hammer and the trigger sear are not correctly aligned and that there is excessive play.The pin holes are over sized which causes both to move at an angle rather then parallel to one another.This in my belief causes irregular pulls as the hammer or trigger may or may not make contact with the other metal surfaces adding friction sometimes and not other times.

So I pretty much did a complete tear down of the trigger group stoned all surfaces where they have a possibility to make contact.I then added shims to the hammer as well as the trigger to make sure they aligned as much as possible without side to side play.

Also had to find a better pin for the trigger as the factory pin play was terribly excessive. After the sears were polished I did lighten up the trigger spring as well as removed one coil from the secondary sear spring. I can add a spacer under the spring if needed to add weight.I only removed about 1/2 a mm.

I now have a 3.5lb trigger that breaks as clean as my Savage accu-trigger.The shims and stoning took 100% of the grittiness out. By adding the over travel stop there is about 1/16 inch or less travel after take up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
this wasn't a 30min trigger job.I took at least 5hrs to get the shims the correct.Because the hammer was not machined as square as it should have at the base.I shimmed it away from the safety catch side .02in.and .012 on the other side.It still engages the safety catch 100%,but does not rub against it at all.I did remove the hammer and stone the channel it sits in and broke the corners.It's pretty rough from the factory.The trigger was a little more trickier as you have to have the correct thickness 1/8 hole and a small enough outside diameter to fit under the springs. it took .02 on both sides.

Was celebrating my little one's 4th Bday,so a little slow on the pics.
 

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Vigilant Curmudgeon
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They don't have a "thank you" icon on this forum. So, I 'm giving up a little gratitude for a good post, and for you, ignoring disbelievers. Regards, Dino
 

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Nice job! I had to shim mine too, and the sears were ugly. Never thought about doing the overtravel screw that way...cool. Took me a while to get mine right...really nervous about messing up drilling the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The metal was not as hard as I have hear claimed in videos.A regular bit and tap worked just fine.I did tap the over travel stop hole,but added the nut because it didn't show up well in pictures.I may leave it there.

There is a possibility if one wanted to,would be to make the secondary sear tension adjustable without cutting or modifying the spring.It would require drilling the hole through and tapping for an adjustment screw.I estimate my sear to be about 2 1/2lb and the rest of the 3.5lb or trigger to be 1lb.

I could have turned another bushing for the trigger/sec. sear ,but elected not to as my lathe is not tooled for small pieces like that.If I had that ability right now I would have over sized the hammer pin hole and put a bushing in there as well.I can understand some play,but these were both enough that foreign material can work it's way into those areas and cause wear and a dirty trigger.
 

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Just finished the same job less the shims and over travel, and have two, crisp, 3.25 lb. triggers on my tactical and my son's new ranch rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It definitely makes a big difference.Not sure if everyone will need shims ,as there is probably going to be differences across the board from one to the next.Glad it worked out.
thanks for the update,
Jeremy
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
great post mini. where did you get the shims? maybe made from shim stock?
Yes I measured and was quiet a bit if trial and error.I had to really work on the hammer side as it would bind up.The hammer was not machined square as it should have been.Once it was trued up it was much easier.You can purchase shim stock and there is someone out there that makes shim kits.Believe they are only for the trigger.
 
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