Is smoothing up the trigger something the average gun owner can pull off? I'm a very technical guy, mechanically inclined and all but don't know what to think about all those little parts in there! What do you think? Can it be done? What tools are needed?
trigger job, can I do it?
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Hey fastang. I can't tell you how to do a trigger job on the mini, as I haven't done one myself. All the articles I've read say to stone lap parts (too much off the sear you will get ram fires
), and change out certain springs.
I bought Mike Knifongs gas port bushing kit for $25. He also did a 3 1/2# trigger job for another $25 (combo deal only) It is a smooth trigger now.
If you attempt to do it your self, remember to give it the final safety check. With mag removed, chamber empty, safety on, squeeze the trigger. It should not go off. Now bump the rifle butt on the hard floor (not carpet) bump it hard 4 times. It should not fire. If it does the gun is not safe!
), and change out certain springs. I bought Mike Knifongs gas port bushing kit for $25. He also did a 3 1/2# trigger job for another $25 (combo deal only) It is a smooth trigger now.
If you attempt to do it your self, remember to give it the final safety check. With mag removed, chamber empty, safety on, squeeze the trigger. It should not go off. Now bump the rifle butt on the hard floor (not carpet) bump it hard 4 times. It should not fire. If it does the gun is not safe!
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Cajungeo, You mentioned "stone lapping" the trigger parts and being careful not to take too much off. Can you or somebody else explain stone lapping. I had my trigger group out this weekend looking at it and wondering how to make it a "bit" lighter but because of the safety/fear of ruining factor, left it alone and put the dremel away. I'm not trying to cut Mike in OR out of any work but would like to try my hand at it.
Thanks.
bargunhuntr
Thanks.
bargunhuntr
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279 Posts
I find that a trigger job is better left up to a good smith. I did a fine job on an old 30-06 03-A3 but really bothched a model 98. Those are practically identical workings yet I had about a bug fart of pressure to set off the 98. Too scary! I gave it to a smith and $45.00 later I had a crisp 3 lbs. and a new respect. Just my own experience.:usa:
I'm a little confused. I thought the Mini has a hammer block safety. This prevents the hammer form dropping no matter what when engaged. Shouldn't the safety check Bumping portion be done with the safety off?
Also; pull the trigger and hold it down cock the rifle with the trigger depressed the hammer should remain cocked, if it follows foreward & drops, the sear is not working properly.(will slam fire)
If it passes a dry safety check, only load 2 rounds in the mag for the first "live" run!
Please correct me if I'm wrong!
Also; pull the trigger and hold it down cock the rifle with the trigger depressed the hammer should remain cocked, if it follows foreward & drops, the sear is not working properly.(will slam fire)
If it passes a dry safety check, only load 2 rounds in the mag for the first "live" run!
Please correct me if I'm wrong!
Orbit-
Your comment about the safety makes sense, from what I saw with the trigger group removed the only thing holding the hammer back when the saftey is on is the saftey, it actually pulled it back a touch from the trigger. Though for $25-50 I'm not sure this trigger job thing is worth my trouble.
Your comment about the safety makes sense, from what I saw with the trigger group removed the only thing holding the hammer back when the saftey is on is the saftey, it actually pulled it back a touch from the trigger. Though for $25-50 I'm not sure this trigger job thing is worth my trouble.
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I consider myself to be very mechanically inclined, and I would never attempt performing my own trigger job. I currently have Mike's adjustable trigger in my Mini-14. It adjusts very simply, using 3 little allenhead set-screws. He sent it to me very well-tweaked at about 2.5#, very crisp, and I won't even touch THAT for fear of messing it up.
Stone laping is using a small fine wheting stone, by hand to smooth up the hamer latch cam, and trigger to hammer latch. The idea is not to take off too much metal, only to smooth up the machine/casting marks. Add a little gun slick. I would measure trigger pull before and after. satan has the deluxe trigger job, with pre travel adj. screw. Mine is just a smooth 3 1/2#.
If I were going to attempt a trigger job on the mini, I would do it by hand, slow, and easy. Do not use a dremmel, they can remove too much in a very short time, and it is easy to slip, Upps!
Just a warning. A botched trigger job can be a real danger! Ram fires, Unsafe safety, etc. The above is not meant to be a how to, on a trigger job, only a definition of Stone laping.
If I were going to attempt a trigger job on the mini, I would do it by hand, slow, and easy. Do not use a dremmel, they can remove too much in a very short time, and it is easy to slip, Upps!
Just a warning. A botched trigger job can be a real danger! Ram fires, Unsafe safety, etc. The above is not meant to be a how to, on a trigger job, only a definition of Stone laping.
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Cajungeo.
Thank you for answering my question. I will heed your words of warning. A heavy trigger is always better than a botched trigger job! As for the reference to the dremel: I didn't want to freak anybody out and appreciate thier input. What I was planning on doing with it was to put on a felt buffer wheel and use some polishing compound. (? jeweler's rouge?) I'm not even sure if it would be abrasive enough to polish my SS trigger group parts. Has anyone else done this?
Thank you for answering my question. I will heed your words of warning. A heavy trigger is always better than a botched trigger job! As for the reference to the dremel: I didn't want to freak anybody out and appreciate thier input. What I was planning on doing with it was to put on a felt buffer wheel and use some polishing compound. (? jeweler's rouge?) I'm not even sure if it would be abrasive enough to polish my SS trigger group parts. Has anyone else done this?
Origionaly posted by goodorbit
goodorbit I stand corrected. The trigger jobs I have done were on trigger lock safety systems, my 10/22's, and Rem. mod 4. The mini has a hammer block safety. The only thing I have seen which has a 50/50 chance of the safety failing is to take a picture of the rifle. HUH? don't believe me? just look at the safetys in the mini gallery.
goodorbit I stand corrected. The trigger jobs I have done were on trigger lock safety systems, my 10/22's, and Rem. mod 4. The mini has a hammer block safety. The only thing I have seen which has a 50/50 chance of the safety failing is to take a picture of the rifle. HUH? don't believe me? just look at the safetys in the mini gallery.
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