Please see the new pictures in my gallery thread.
Last night I tried some tinkering with my trigger group.
Originally it measured 82 oz = 5 1/4 pounds after 200 rounds.
My trigger pull gauge ($14.99 RCBS Trigger Pull Gauge from Midway) does not go that far, so I aded constant 48 ounces weight (three cans in a plastic bag held by a wire hanger) to get withing the range of the gauge.
I removed the trigger with the sear and then removed the sear from the trigger, as per picture. I examined the the mating surfaces of the hammer and trigger - with my eyes as well as with a needle and found them pretty smooth. At least smooth enough not to risk using the sand paper. I did not have a triangular stone and failed to find valve lapping compound, otherwise I might have been tempted to use them. When I looked at the trigger from the top, I found a circular ridge/burr on one side - clearly visible and marked as (X) on the picture - doubtless the result of the drilling - that could have accounted for some rasping feel in the trigger pull. I removed it with a small file. If worse comes to worse, I can use a thin shim there. What a sloppy job Ruger did here!
I also removed 1/2 of the bottom (flat) loop of the sear spring. After that I covered the pins and pin-holes with litium-based rifle grease a can of which I got from Numrich (BTW, anyone can tell me what the heck it is and should I be using it and for what) and assembled the trigger group.
Inserting the hollow pin that joins the sear to the trigger against resistance of the sear spring requires three hands and one of them hurts because of pressing on the small metal parts. So I put the parts in the rubber-padded wise and let it hold them for me. There is some play, so with one hand on the trigger I was able to line up the holes while inserting the pin with another hand. Simple.
After the whole thing was assembled, I've got consistent 76 oz = 4 3/4 pounds trigger pull, total reduction of 3/4 pounds.
I will leave it at that because it is likely to get lower with use. I may do some polishing once I get lapping compound but just for smoothness, not to reduce weight.
I believe that by filing/stonong the surface (A) on the sear that presses against the trigger, the length of the first stage (free play) may be reduced while the length of the second stage correspondingly increases.
Please note a picture of the front of a slide I've added to my gallery thread. Some members suggest filing it a bit to prevent the slide slamming - or contacting - the gas block. It is hard for me to imagine why uneven contact before shot or a slam after shot would affect the accuracy, but the empirical evidence suggests it works. Most likely it helps to keep the parts in tune longer by preventing stress and shift induced by slamming.
I've also gapped my gas block and installed the middle bushing from Mike K - who was kind to send me his kit and a buffer without wainting for my check and order to arrive by mail.
I had to do some sanding of the flat surfaces of both top and bottom of the gas block with #400 and #600 sand paper to make them even. I was surprised to find the poor fit of the gas block parts to the barrel. There is some space there into which cleaning liquids and crud penetrates and accumilates.
I had absolutely no problem removing the gas block screws - by loosening one a bit (half turn), then tightening it back to reduce pressure on the second one on the same side, then loosening that other one on the same side, then losening them both a bit (quarter-half turn) to reduce pressure on the opposire side, then repeating the process on the other side, then unscrewing them all 1 turn each till loose.
I tightened them at 30 inch-pounds and gapped as close as possible using a filler gauge at about 0.022-0.023, IIRC. There was a gap between top and bottom of the gas block before but my sanding must have increased it slightly. I'll see what happens next time I shoot.
I am not yet ready to sand the slide assembly to prevent it touching the gas block.
So I've put some Permatex Ultra Copper gasket forming material (which is supposedely more resilient than Permatex Red recommended here - maybe I made a mistake - any thoughts?) as a shock buffer into the gas block where the slide assembly "contacts" it - but not touching the barrel or gas piston. It is supposed to be resistant up to 700 degrees and oxygen - sensor safe - which I assume means not emitting much corrosive stuff. I did not oil the gas block surface before applying Permatex. It's very sticky and hard to hold in place while spreading with a tip of a screwdriver. I hope I can remove it if it does not work out. I made a cusion of about 1/8 and it's still curing. I may try to cut it a bit to better correspond to the profile of the slide assembly front surface.
I've also filed off/smoothed sharp edges on the trigger - the bottom one that may pinch a finger to the trigger guard and the right edge which cuts into the trigger finger.
Quite productive two nights - provided I did not screw something up.
BTW - I would recommend sending your trigegr to Mike if you are not paranoid enough to disable your Mini for a few days or have a backup gun.
V.
Last night I tried some tinkering with my trigger group.
Originally it measured 82 oz = 5 1/4 pounds after 200 rounds.
My trigger pull gauge ($14.99 RCBS Trigger Pull Gauge from Midway) does not go that far, so I aded constant 48 ounces weight (three cans in a plastic bag held by a wire hanger) to get withing the range of the gauge.
I removed the trigger with the sear and then removed the sear from the trigger, as per picture. I examined the the mating surfaces of the hammer and trigger - with my eyes as well as with a needle and found them pretty smooth. At least smooth enough not to risk using the sand paper. I did not have a triangular stone and failed to find valve lapping compound, otherwise I might have been tempted to use them. When I looked at the trigger from the top, I found a circular ridge/burr on one side - clearly visible and marked as (X) on the picture - doubtless the result of the drilling - that could have accounted for some rasping feel in the trigger pull. I removed it with a small file. If worse comes to worse, I can use a thin shim there. What a sloppy job Ruger did here!
I also removed 1/2 of the bottom (flat) loop of the sear spring. After that I covered the pins and pin-holes with litium-based rifle grease a can of which I got from Numrich (BTW, anyone can tell me what the heck it is and should I be using it and for what) and assembled the trigger group.
Inserting the hollow pin that joins the sear to the trigger against resistance of the sear spring requires three hands and one of them hurts because of pressing on the small metal parts. So I put the parts in the rubber-padded wise and let it hold them for me. There is some play, so with one hand on the trigger I was able to line up the holes while inserting the pin with another hand. Simple.
After the whole thing was assembled, I've got consistent 76 oz = 4 3/4 pounds trigger pull, total reduction of 3/4 pounds.
I will leave it at that because it is likely to get lower with use. I may do some polishing once I get lapping compound but just for smoothness, not to reduce weight.
I believe that by filing/stonong the surface (A) on the sear that presses against the trigger, the length of the first stage (free play) may be reduced while the length of the second stage correspondingly increases.
Please note a picture of the front of a slide I've added to my gallery thread. Some members suggest filing it a bit to prevent the slide slamming - or contacting - the gas block. It is hard for me to imagine why uneven contact before shot or a slam after shot would affect the accuracy, but the empirical evidence suggests it works. Most likely it helps to keep the parts in tune longer by preventing stress and shift induced by slamming.
I've also gapped my gas block and installed the middle bushing from Mike K - who was kind to send me his kit and a buffer without wainting for my check and order to arrive by mail.
I had to do some sanding of the flat surfaces of both top and bottom of the gas block with #400 and #600 sand paper to make them even. I was surprised to find the poor fit of the gas block parts to the barrel. There is some space there into which cleaning liquids and crud penetrates and accumilates.
I had absolutely no problem removing the gas block screws - by loosening one a bit (half turn), then tightening it back to reduce pressure on the second one on the same side, then loosening that other one on the same side, then losening them both a bit (quarter-half turn) to reduce pressure on the opposire side, then repeating the process on the other side, then unscrewing them all 1 turn each till loose.
I tightened them at 30 inch-pounds and gapped as close as possible using a filler gauge at about 0.022-0.023, IIRC. There was a gap between top and bottom of the gas block before but my sanding must have increased it slightly. I'll see what happens next time I shoot.
I am not yet ready to sand the slide assembly to prevent it touching the gas block.
So I've put some Permatex Ultra Copper gasket forming material (which is supposedely more resilient than Permatex Red recommended here - maybe I made a mistake - any thoughts?) as a shock buffer into the gas block where the slide assembly "contacts" it - but not touching the barrel or gas piston. It is supposed to be resistant up to 700 degrees and oxygen - sensor safe - which I assume means not emitting much corrosive stuff. I did not oil the gas block surface before applying Permatex. It's very sticky and hard to hold in place while spreading with a tip of a screwdriver. I hope I can remove it if it does not work out. I made a cusion of about 1/8 and it's still curing. I may try to cut it a bit to better correspond to the profile of the slide assembly front surface.
I've also filed off/smoothed sharp edges on the trigger - the bottom one that may pinch a finger to the trigger guard and the right edge which cuts into the trigger finger.
Quite productive two nights - provided I did not screw something up.
BTW - I would recommend sending your trigegr to Mike if you are not paranoid enough to disable your Mini for a few days or have a backup gun.
V.
