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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there any reason that I could not drill and tap the gas piston that seats into the operating rod, and then make a threaded bushing that inserts/screws into the piston? A set screw that bottomed in the Piston, and was drilled to the size needed would be simple, and easy to adjust. I understand that most of the time you never change the bushing once you have found the "right" one, but it would allow for more, or simpler, or at least quicker swapping to test other sizes.
Another option would be to drill all the way through the piston, and then counter bore a larger size from the front end of the piston part way through, and use an "Insert" that drops in. You would still need to pull the gas block to do this, so the first option seems to be the best.
OR, using the second idea, you could drill the gas block itself, thread it, and make a plug to cover the hole. Then you could change bushings without even dissembling the rifle.
in either case, the gas bushing could be both threaded internally and then drilled, so that for removal, you could thread in a "tool" to remove, or seat the bushing.
This might make cleaning easier also.
Any other thoughts, or opinions?
Kary
 

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Hey big blue. You really are thinking out of the box. I like it. If I am understanding you correctly, you want to thread a homemade bushing, into the end of the gas pipe, i.e. parrlell, and inside of the gas pipes exhaust orfice? So you can remove the slide rod assy, and unscrew the gas port bushing with the gas block halves intact? If this is what you mean, it might work, but you would have to leave the origional gas port bushing in place as this is what indexes the gas block to the barrel. These bushing are made of stainless steel, with very small orfices. You would have to thread, and drill a very small hole to make the bushings. I would order an extra gas pipe from numerich gun parts, and experiment with it. Just my 2 cents.;)
http://www.e-gunparts.com/model.asp?idDept=218
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, that is exactly what I mean. I know that I have to leave the stock bushing in place to locate the barrel to the gas block, but why should you have to remove the gasblock every time you want to change the orifice size. I'm a machinest with a lathe/CNC, and just popped out a couple of bushings to try this afternoon, Stock is ~.089" I made a .074", and a .061", and three blanks to drill as I see the need. The stock bushing isn't stainless in my stainless ranch.
I'm going to try the .061", and see how it cycles, and then go smaller as needed until I find that the action won't cycle.
If they were easier to change you could/might change them for different types of ammo/shooting. Hell, you could make the gun into a glorified "bolt action" for the range, and then go plinking or hunting with it with almost no work.
Any other thoughts?
Kary
 

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I was contemplating drilling and tapping a carburettor idle adjuster jet into the end of the gas block so it was externally and infinitly adjustable. But its got a long way to go in to where its required to make the adjustment (under the bushing) and I just got the kit from Mike (seems like a required part of being a member of the BBS!)

Still something to contemplate, wouldnt be that hard to do, and would be more than happy to do it to SOMEBODY ELSES rifle......

:p
 

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COPY THAT!!! Some thought revealed to me that the existing system does not get mixed up in moving parts (read that does not damage) if it fails--just won't work. An internal, easier to change port, would be possibly caught inside with results I don't want to consider. You KNOW it would happen at the wrong time! Besides, gives me a break from digging foxholes.:rolleyes:
 
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