Perfect Union banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks. I am new to this forum. I have been reading all the great stuff over the past week or so. Boy I have learned alot about the 'ol Mini.

I recently purchased a Model 196 (I also made the mistake of purchasing some no name mags what junk - I won't do that again!). I have some USA's on order and I bit the bullet to purchase some Ruger 20 rounders (ain't cheap but worth it to complete the ensemble - IMHO). Anyway, I have only run 150 rounds through it and I have notice brass marks on the outside of the slide handle. I am thinking the spent brass is hitting there when it is being ejected. Will a bushing kit help this? Will the recoil pads from Buffer Tech help? The brass also gets ejected about 10-15 ft at the 3 o'clock position. Any thoughts?

I have also seen lots of websites with parts and stuff for Mini's. Does anyone have recommendations on who is good and bad to deal with?

Thanks in advance.
elkabong - In the land of heat and no moisture.

:usa:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,765 Posts
Welcome elkabong, You've already have it figured out, yes the gas bushings will greatly reduce the flying brass. Your brass only flies 10 ft? Mine flew 60 ft, till I put in the smaller gas bushings. It greatly reduces recoil, and extends scope life. Also during rapid fire you can stay on target much better. The recoil pads also help absorb recoil. Some members have reported they may be a little thick, and have to seat in after 500 rds or so.
As far as the mags go I like PMI's. Go to our Magazine section for threads dealing with mags. There is even a gallery. Lastly concerning where we shop for mini stuf, it depends what your looking for. I hope this helps. - From a land of heat, and much moisture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
cajungeo,

Thanks for the reply. Where can I get the bushing kit? I have searched the web for NW but I can't find a web site. Is there one?

I have some USA mags on order primarily because I like the 20 rounders. I checked PMI and they don't offer 20 rounders. I also took the plunge and laid out the cash for factory originals. Darn near cost me as much as the Mini for 3 - but I figure it will be worth it in the long run.

So far I have been shooting at metal plates and have been able to keep a 12" group at 50 yards. I figure that ain't bad for open sights and my Mini is straight out of the box. The factory trigger sucks however. Gotta get it worked on.

Thanks for the info. It will be a while before I go out in the desert and shoot again. It was 110 today - to be honest the watering hole in the backyard is getting real inviting.

elkabong - from the land of heat and no moisture.
:usa:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
elkabong,

There are 3 20 round pmi mags for sale at auction arms right now.
I have seen the usa mags, the pmi are a heavier guage metal and everybody seems to like them. Good luck. (I do not know the seller or have any part of the sale, I just saw the auctions):p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,765 Posts
Elkabong, Mike Knifong at Nw dosen't have a web site yet. You can e-mail at: [email protected] He can send you a Gas bushing kit for $25. He charges $40 for a trigger job, but as a combo i.e gas bushing kit, and trigger job for $50. He is very helpful, and always gives you more info than you ask for. I got mine back in a week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. I read some other posts and sent him a message yesterday. His response was timely and quite lenghty in a good way. Packed with lots of good info. I'm gonna do the combo thing to start and see if that helps.

elkabong
:usa:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
716 Posts
Is it a blued Mini or stainless steel?

If stainless, simply use some medium to fine steel wool. Simple simple.

If blued, you may try same, but you may need to re-blue if any of the bluing comes off. If you are gentle and patient, you should be able to remove the brass before the blue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's blued. I will try the steel wool - and I will be extremely gentle. Thanks for the info.

elkabong
:usa:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
I remember reading somewhere else on this forum that the Garand design was meant to bump the brass away from the action with the op rod. Thats why the hump is there in the first place.

I've found it - non other that Bill himself crediting Mr. Kuleck

"The Mini is a copy of the Garand action.

A properly timed Garand will shoot the brass to about 2pm, give or take.

The extractor is NOT an ejector. It extracts the brass and pops it up, gently. The oprod HUMP hammers it on the way forward, ejecting it away from the rifle. Yes, it hits it in flight, by design.

Garand design, that is, circa 1936.

------------------
reprint
--------------------
From: Walter J. Kuleck, Ph.D.
Subject: RE: [M1-m14] M1 denting case mouths "

Sounds like you are supposed to have brass marking on your op rod. I'd try a little solvent on a rag first before I'd have at it with steel wool.

:usa:
Oh yes, I do believe the Ranch design is very different than the standard. Standard is a copy of garand with the spring ejector plug. The hump bumps the brass foward at 2 o'clock.
Ranch has Mauser style fixed ejector in the back of the action with a cut out in the bolt face. That's why Ranchies shoot the brass so far, to 4 o'clock as its being sent with the full force of reverse moving bolt.
That's why the busing kit will have more of an impact on the ranch desing because is slows down the action, so there's less force to throw the brass. On the standard, that slowing of the action doesn't matter as much for the brass bump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Here's another dumb question:

If the gun is designed to have the op rod hit the case on the way forward to cause the ejection, what happens on the last shot of the magazine when the op rod stays aft?
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top