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Formerly "raf"
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Well, there are some side-mounted scope mounts that are see-under, and many here have tried them. The problem is that with such mounts, one's eye/head is raised so much as to require a cheek-riser to ensure a comfortable and natural cheek weld to the stock. ITC sells such a cheek-riser, and other mfrs offer similar: https://www.amazon.com/Rifle-CheekRest-ITC-Marksmanship-Cordura/dp/B06XTS8BX9

Most of the side-mount scope mounts/bases are aluminum, and a little fragile. You will want such a mount to have both fore-and aft set-screws that eliminate any possibility of the mount wobbling. This side-mount scope base is probably as good as such things get:Ruger Mini 14 Scope Mount| Ruger Mini 14 Scope Mount|

On my 186 Mini, having tried everything else, I installed an Ultimak scout rail, and I've never been happier. Not for everyone, but it suits me better than all the other stuff I tried. YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ah...I didn't think about that... I have a side-mount scope on my M1A that is great with the normal sightline and I assumed it would be the same with the Mini, just on a smaller scale...

Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ah...I didn't think about the mount being aluminum...that would have a tendency to flex, I bet.

The rear sight mount sounds more stable,

I have a side-mount scope on my M1A that is great with the normal sightline and I assumed it would be the same with the Mini, just on a smaller scale...

Thanks for the info.
 

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Formerly "raf"
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Ah...I didn't think about that... I have a side-mount scope on my M1A that is great with the normal sightline and I assumed it would be the same with the Mini, just on a smaller scale...

Thanks for the info.
Just my personal opinion. Stick around; some others might have different points of view. I'm certailly no expert on anything, LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just my personal opinion. Stick around; some others might have different points of view. I'm certailly no expert on anything, LOL!
Hmm...part of my reply didn't post. I had added that it being aluminum concerns me about flexing abd the sight-mount sounds the better option...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, there are some side-mounted scope mounts that are see-under, and many here have tried them. The problem is that with such mounts, one's eye/head is raised so much as to require a cheek-riser to ensure a comfortable and natural cheek weld to the stock. ITC sells such a cheek-riser, and other mfrs offer similar: https://www.amazon.com/Rifle-CheekRest-ITC-Marksmanship-Cordura/dp/B06XTS8BX9

Most of the side-mount scope mounts/bases are aluminum, and a little fragile. You will want such a mount to have both fore-and aft set-screws that eliminate any possibility of the mount wobbling. This side-mount scope base is probably as good as such things get:Ruger Mini 14 Scope Mount| Ruger Mini 14 Scope Mount|

On my 186 Mini, having tried everything else, I installed an Ultimak scout rail, and I've never been happier. Not for everyone, but it suits me better than all the other stuff I tried. YMMV.
What sorta scope did you mount on the Ultimax mount? It seems pretty far from the eye...
 

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What sorta scope did you mount on the Ultimax mount? It seems pretty far from the eye...
The Burris and Leupold Scout scopes are meant for this application, and some Pistol scopes will also work, such as the Burris units. Nowadays, I use a Red Dot Sight.

When mounting anything on the Ultimak scout rail it pays HUGE dividends to ensure the optic (of whatever type) is kept as low (close to the barrel) as possible. Make every possible effort to do this, as it has a great deal to do with how easily and quickly the rifle is shouldered and how easily and quickly one obtains a good cheek weld and gets off a snap shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The Burris and Leupold Scout scopes are meant for this application, and some Pistol scopes will also work, such as the Burris units. Nowadays, I use a Red Dot Sight.

When munting anything on the Ultimak scout rail it pays HUGE dividends to ensure the optic (of whatever type) is kept as low (close to the barrel) as possible. Make every possible effort to do this, as it has a great deal to do with how easily and quickly the rifle is shouldered and how easily and quickly one obtains a good cheek weld and gets off a snap shot.
Thanks heaps!
 

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I have a side-mounted P-Rail that handles either a scope or a RDS for my 181. It will work on pretty much ALL Minis. As RIBob mentioned, it isn't ideal and was first introduced for those of us with early Minis that had no provision for a scope or RDS (e.g. no scope scallops). But there are some unique advantages of it over other solutions - the main one being, with mounted, one still has an UN-obsrtucted view through the irons by simply changing from a chin to a cheek weld.

With a judicious use of Blue Loctite, it will do well and serve well. It DOES raise the eye-level for a scope or RDS, but it is mostly the difference between a chin versus cheek weld. One can certainly add cheek-risers without a problem if using a scope will always be the preferred sighting means. For me, I prefer just the adjustment between cheek and chin weld. To me, it is a carbine - not a sniper rifle, and using irons is a primary concern - what most other solutions don't allow.

A side-mount is easily reversible and in no way permanent - one of my primary concerns for the first firearm I ever owned. Returning it to "original" entails using a flat-tip screwdriver...

An UltiMak or Amega doesn't allow for a mounted scope/RDS to be co-existent with irons: to use irons, the scope/RDS must be removed. With the side-mounted rails, that is not necessary. I have an UltiMak with an RDS for my Mini-14 Tactical; that is enough.

To be sure, I have the side-mounted rail on my 181, but it seldom has anything mounted on it anymore: I have newer Minis to handle scopes and and RDS (1), and a bolt-gun to handle "sniper-like" 3X9-40 scope needs. Using irons for my 181 are "default" in its present configuration and I could easily restore my 181 to the original configuration without the side-mounted rail, but feel no need to do that other than for aesthetics. I like the quick potential to add an RDS or scope quickly if needed.

IT IS A CARBINE. They all are (except for perhaps the Target model).

All of this is unique to an individual's needs: intended use/needs and portability desires. For my farm, for a semi-long-distance shot on a known rabid fox or 'yote at 200 yards, my preferred will be my .223 Savage bolt gun with a 3X9-40 scope. I don't hunt and love God's creations, so this would be an extreme use. Groundhogs are welcome as long they keep their homes in the tree lines (which they do).

Don't know about 2-legged trespassers. We've had some with no serious confrontations (some were poachers and I don't think they'll return). Living on a remote property, one can't help but think of the movie "In Cold Blood". Sheriff's response here is likely just less than 30 minutes, depending on where they are at the time. "When seconds matter..."

Neighbors are of a similar bent...We'll take care of each other until the Sheriff's deputies arrive, given the chance. Otherwise, we can guide in the mortuary guys to pick up body bags if necessary (hopefully never).

Back to the original post, though, using scope scallpos or Ruger-supplied P-rails are the likely-preferred solution to scoping a Mini-14 if the model is adaptable. But don't discount the side-mounted rails if you want to alternate between irons and optics. Good and bad aspects, but they give a flexible option without needing an Allen-wrench or a screwdriver.

Just a perspective - not a recommendation for-or-against.
 

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I don't disagree with RJF's comments one bit. I think he has been fair in describing the advantages and disadvantages of the "see-under" side scope mount.

Agreed that, unlike the AR platform getting the OEM Mini iron sights to co-witness through the RDS optics is problematic. OTOH, making provisions to quickly dismount optics, if they fail for any reason, and then using OEM iron sights is as simple as buying good quality LOW QD scope rings (I prefer Leupold QRW rings), or as complicated as silver-soldering a wingnut onto the OEM hex nut securing some low-mounted RDS units. Not as quick as modern QD throw levers, but close enough to get rid of failed optics quick enough, and then revert to iron sights. And no-dismounting of any cheek-riser required for the optics

My fundamental view is that I want my optics to use the same stock as is used with the iron sights without any sort of cheek riser. If the optics fail, then quickly remove them, and use iron sights without having to also remove any cheek-riser. Others may vary, and I respect their opinions. One size does not fit all.

Again, NO beef with what RJF's comments. He's presenting a reasonable case for see-under scope mounts, but in all honesty, other viewpoints are at least worth considering.

Everyone has their own preferences. What makes the difference is one being willing to try decent alternatives, whilst keeping an open mind about new things, and giving them a fair trial. That's not so easy for many of us.

Suggest you try out both approaches, while not geting married to either one, and then decide based on your open-minded experience.
 

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The Burris and Leupold Scout scopes are meant for this application, and some Pistol scopes will also work, such as the Burris units. Nowadays, I use a Red Dot Sight.

When mounting anything on the Ultimak scout rail it pays HUGE dividends to ensure the optic (of whatever type) is kept as low (close to the barrel) as possible. Make every possible effort to do this, as it has a great deal to do with how easily and quickly the rifle is shouldered and how easily and quickly one obtains a good cheek weld and gets off a snap shot.
My Mini-14 Tactical "583"... Ultimak, Leupold 2.5x scout scope, Warne 201LM QD rings... QD allows quick removal for storage, use of irons, or a Red Dot with QD some day.
Warne also makes QD rings for use with the Ruger receiver integral mounts.
Air gun Trigger Shotgun Line Gun barrel
 

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My 181-series Mini-14, built in 1977 - the first year of the 181 series with a low S/N on new factory machinery.

Accuracy was never a problem, perhaps because it was built from new machining, but also a GB model which, with its flashhider and front sight/bayo lug, seemed to balance/harmonize the barrel. It does everything I ever expected/wanted at 300M - taking down pop-up ½ silhouette tagets at that range consistently. Don't care which button, just a threat elimination.

Someday, I may remove the side-mounted rail, but it really doesn't interfere with irons that I use, and gives an option for using a RDS, a scope, or a laser/light without serious modification other than mounting and adjusting. In a quick need, the irons are always there! Pic is with a TRS-25 RDS, since removed but ready to re-install.

Disregard the barrel strut I toyed with: turned out I didn't need it and prefered to have a bayo option instead. T'was a nice exploration, but in the end superfluous to my needs/desires and added weight. But at least it was rock-solid when mounted, without ANY mods to my original baby. Stock is a newer Ruger wood stock, which I finally replaced with a "period" wood stock - as it left the factory. No Bi-Pod on it. The hand guard is a Choate, which I prefer, but I also have the factory one it came with in 1980 (pretty much identical to the current plastic attorney-approved hand guards).

I'll search around for a more recent and accurate configuration. All that crap I added made it less a carbine and more of a SAW. Not what I was really looking for. Old age and muscle-mass loss changes one's priorities...and mine are light and portable.

MJM, that is a fine set-up! Just not what I would personally prefer, at least on my 181. I have other Minis that may be more receptive, but frankly, my .223 REM bolt Savage gives me the capability without sacrificing the portability and mobility of a Mini-14 Carbine. My Savage came with a 9-30X40 scope (I added a bi-pod) - as was standard with an Axis II XP. It is more than fine for me to humanely dispatch rabid foxes or 'yotes at 100-300 yards - the maximum clear distance on my farm.
Air gun Trigger Machine gun Gun barrel Wood
 
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