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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks. I just wanted to make a brief comment just to keep us all on the same page.

I've been seeing a few comments lately concerning the performance of barrel struts, and how they work. If I'm interpreting correctly there's a misconception out there that struts only work once the barrel begins to heat up.

This is completely not true. The primary action of the strut is to stiffen the barrel and reduce harmonic-related inaccuracy, regardless of the temperature of the barrel. This effect is primarily with the older 9/16" barrels, by the way, and is less pronounced (sometimes but not always non-existent) with the newer 5/8" bbls.

A secondary effect is indeed to limit thermal warping. This is not an increase in group size per se, but the gradual shifting of point-of-impact resulting in the "shot-stringing" effect so often seen with thin barrel carbines. My main point is that this is a completely separate behavior of strut mechanics, and by far a secondary action.

Hope this clarifies things a bit. Just want to head these things off before they really get going.

Kevin
 

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Odd Pachyderm thingy
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Its three fold IMHO: better heat dissapation, stiffen barrel, and looks. :)
a strut does almost nothing about heat dissipation - it stiffens the barrel, effects barrel harmonics and as a secondary effect it helps reduce shot stringing as the barrel heats up - mainly due to the additional stiffening.

struts are really a piss poor heat sink, being hollow and cylindrical and fashioned of steel of a small diameter, and then also being attached with a clamp or two.
not much surface area there. it wasn't designed to scrub heat - otherwise it would look something like the back half of a thompson SMG barrel.

you want heat dissipation? change out the stock top cover for a Choate ventilated - it helps.
 

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I think the Mo Rod is not a hollow steel rod but is a solid rod. The sturdy clamps that hold it to the barrel do transfer a certain amount of heat. You can tell- when the barrel gets heated up after shooting, the clamps and struts also get warm. I would think this is heat transfer.
 

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My homemade strut is all aluminum including a sizable clamp. The heat dissipation is dramatic. The barrel is cool enough to touch all the time, even after a 30 round mag. Not cold, but cool enough to touch.
 

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Yeah my homemade strut uses two alum tri-rail mounts and an alum tube that is the same diameter as the barrel, and does draw alot of heat. So atleast in my usage it does help dissipate some heat in addition to controlling the barrel whip.
 

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Odd Pachyderm thingy
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both of your struts are aluminum - a material that is almost universally used for heat sinks in nearly every industry that uses them... aluminum cools very rapidly. so it makes sense that they provide a more positive scrubbing of heat from the steel barrel. if you were to increase the surface area of your aluminum strut (giving it a finned appearance) the effect would be even more dramatic.

while any additional surface area will facilitate cooling - the steel struts are pretty poor choices if cooling is specifically what you are after...

I went with the accustrut due to Kkina's enormous R and D efforts - it does what he says it does, period. anecdotal evidence from the field confirms it.

I suspect that the material of choice for the accu strut was chosen due to cost benefit (no one will pay 200 bucks for a strut), appearance (similar appearance to the existing barrel steel after finishing), and allot of thought probably went into the harmonic properties of the alloy.

Kkina - did you ever play around with Aluminum or advanced alloys in your research?

wondering what your findings were.

Aluminum has an awful lot to offer at first glance (lighter weight, stiffer than steel, better heat dissipation etc.) - there must have been a reason that you decided to go with what you have? wondering if maybe Aluminum didn't damp as much vibration as a steel strut, thus not providing the level of accuracy benefit you were looking for?
 

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a strut does almost nothing about heat dissipation - it stiffens the barrel, effects barrel harmonics and as a secondary effect it helps reduce shot stringing as the barrel heats up - mainly due to the additional stiffening.

struts are really a piss poor heat sink, being hollow and cylindrical and fashioned of steel of a small diameter, and then also being attached with a clamp or two.
not much surface area there. it wasn't designed to scrub heat - otherwise it would look something like the back half of a thompson SMG barrel.

you want heat dissipation? change out the stock top cover for a Choate ventilated - it helps.
The choate was one of the first things I went with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wouldn't say that there is NO heat dissipation characteristics. I just haven't been able to quantify it experimentally yet. Anectodally, there is obvious evidence. Many people report their barrels simply run cooler. By definition, if the strut becomes hot to any degree, it is heat-sinking, to some degree. It's just a question if the effect is large enough to affect performance.

I decided on steel (chrome-moly or stainless) simply to match the rifle material. I wanted as much as possible for the strut to seem like it came from the factory, rather than an add-on. We also spent a great deal of effort getting the finish to match.

In fact, we have looked at other materials, including aluminum. We have actually prototyped an aluminum strut, and may introduce it at some point.
 

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The venting on my ATI stock is improved over the original Ruger synthetic stock also. I have noticed that the barrel stays quite a bit cooler. I also have a strut rod on there and it does get warm. That has to be doing at least some good for heat dissipation but I don't know how much.
 

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Odd Pachyderm thingy
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I hope to someday afford a proper strut (accu-strut.) Finances just don't permit it. Looks like a great product.
I definitely like mine.

and IMHO - the accustrut is the best looking of all of them

and farted... sometimes you are such a wiener. :rolleyes: :D

we all know he uses dwarf lesbian Nazi Eskimos to build his struts.
 

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Hey guys, new here, just gave some background info in the "introduce yourself" forum. My question here I think has already been answered, but I'm about to pull the trigger on buying an accu-strut for my mini 30, just wanted to make sure it was a smart thing to do. Also going to get a recoil buffer.

Wise choices, or wasted money?
 

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Odd Pachyderm thingy
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Hey guys, new here, just gave some background info in the "introduce yourself" forum. My question here I think has already been answered, but I'm about to pull the trigger on buying an accu-strut for my mini 30, just wanted to make sure it was a smart thing to do. Also going to get a recoil buffer.

Wise choices, or wasted money?
forget the mini recoil buffer they can be too thick and cause minor malfunctions. - buy a pack of wilson combat 1911 pistol buffers, install on the back end of your op rod... and enjoy a happy reduced "clang" action. your optic will be happy too.

some guys make their own out of vacuum cleaner belts, they punch the hole out with a spent 9mm case. but I'm lazy and use wilson shock buffs.
they'll last for a hair over 1000 rounds.
 

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forget the mini recoil buffer they can be too thick and cause minor malfunctions. - buy a pack of wilson combat 1911 pistol buffers, install on the back end of your op rod... and enjoy a happy reduced "clang" action. your optic will be happy too.

some guys make their own out of vacuum cleaner belts, they punch the hole out with a spent 9mm case. but I'm lazy and use wilson shock buffs.
they'll last for a hair over 1000 rounds.
Thanks. I keep reading where the Ruger scope rings are notorious for loosening after a few rounds and that's the main reason I was buying a buffer. I'll look into the Wilson 1911s. I've mounted my scope but haven't had a chance to use it yet. I went ahead and ordered the accu-strut, the LT 6" stainless.

Any recommendations for mounting a bipod? The only thing I've seen available for the factory stock is the Harris #14 adapter, but as I understand it I won't be able to mount the accu-strut all the way back and use the set screws with it. My mini 30 is a model KMINI-30/20P and by looking on Ruger's site it looks like it was manufactured in 2006, it's a 581 series and the barrel isn't tapered. I bought it used but it had never been fired.
 

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Odd Pachyderm thingy
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Thanks. I keep reading where the Ruger scope rings are notorious for loosening after a few rounds and that's the main reason I was buying a buffer. I'll look into the Wilson 1911s. I've mounted my scope but haven't had a chance to use it yet. I went ahead and ordered the accu-strut, the LT 6" stainless.

Any recommendations for mounting a bipod? The only thing I've seen available for the factory stock is the Harris #14 adapter, but as I understand it I won't be able to mount the accu-strut all the way back and use the set screws with it. My mini 30 is a model KMINI-30/20P and by looking on Ruger's site it looks like it was manufactured in 2006, it's a 581 series and the barrel isn't tapered. I bought it used but it had never been fired.
little dab of loctite (the removeable type) will help there

Yeah... don't ;) never saw the need for a pod on a mini... but that is just one dude's opinion. but anyway - you have lots of options - you could always mount a picatinny rail at the 6 o'clock of the factory stock and use a pod that mounts to it. or install a swivel stud in the factory stock and use that... or drop the rig into an aftermarket stock with a swivel stud on it and use that.
 

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little dab of loctite (the removeable type) will help there

Yeah... don't ;) never saw the need for a pod on a mini... but that is just one dude's opinion. but anyway - you have lots of options - you could always mount a picatinny rail at the 6 o'clock of the factory stock and use a pod that mounts to it. or install a swivel stud in the factory stock and use that... or drop the rig into an aftermarket stock with a swivel stud on it and use that.
Thanks again. I'm new to this and here to learn. I didn't really see a need for a bi-pod either, just thought it would be cool to have. :D

I'm sure you guys hate it when noobs like me come in asking stupid questions, and I imagine there has been an influx of us recently, I do appreciate the help though. I'll get some (removable) loctite.

While I'm asking stupid questions, ( I should really be using the search ) what do you recommend for a boresighter? The cartridge laser type? I just ordered a Bushnell magnetic and it looks like most people didn't care for them, I'm just hoping it helps to get me on paper, not expecting it to get me zeroed.
 

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Thanks again. I'm new to this and here to learn. I didn't really see a need for a bi-pod either, just thought it would be cool to have. :D

I'm sure you guys hate it when noobs like me come in asking stupid questions, and I imagine there has been an influx of us recently, I do appreciate the help though. I'll get some (removable) loctite.

While I'm asking stupid questions, ( I should really be using the search ) what do you recommend for a boresighter? The cartridge laser type? I just ordered a Bushnell magnetic and it looks like most people didn't care for them, I'm just hoping it helps to get me on paper, not expecting it to get me zeroed.
Honestly. Nobody ever gives newcomers a hardtime for asking questions. This place is really good like that. Its one of the friendliest sites I have been apart of.
 
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