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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put blue loctite on the screws. It was shooting nice and tight and then the pattern started to go wild which is when I checked the scope and sure enough the back ring had loosened up again. I had this same problem when I first shot the gun as well. I'm not sure why they won't hold but they don't.

I'm considering getting the Weigland rail if it will stay tight. I'm sure some people on here have it. Have you had any problems with these loosening up?

Confused a bit about the Weaver versus Picatinny as well. I have a set of good quality Weaver mount rings for the scope that is on the Ruger. I've read that these will fit on the Picatinny rail but rings made for a Picatinny won't fit on a Weaver rail. Seems like there would have to be some slop somewhere for that to work. Should I get the Picatinny rail or the Weaver rail?
Thanks for any help.
 

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I'm not sure about the rails but I had the same problem with my Ruger rings, I went and bought some Warne Quick detach rings a little pricey but they stay tight and still give me the option to return to my iron sights. Just a thought good luck.
 

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I'm not sure about the rails but I had the same problem with my Ruger rings, I went and bought some Warne Quick detach rings a little pricey but they stay tight and still give me the option to return to my iron sights. Just a thought good luck.
I've had good luck with the Weigand rail using Weaver & Picatinny style rings but I've also switched to the Warne Maxima QD rings. Sweet bits of kit that perform to all expectations.

The Weigand rail held nice and tight for me but I remove my scope too often and it doesn't return to zero as well as the Warne QD rings.
 

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hottarod: I have the Weigand mount on my 582 Tactical. It attached easily and has stayed tight after hundreds of rounds fired. The one I got from Amazon -
- is named "Weav-a-tinny" by Weigand and will accept both Weaver and Picattiny mounts/rings.

I really like the Weigand rail and definitely recommend it.
 

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Did you thoroughly degrease the rings before applying the Loctite?

I remove the screws and degrease the screw and the threaded portion of the rings very well before I apply threadlocker. Then apply the Loctite, assemble, and allow it to cure for 24 hours.

If you don't do this, the Loctite will not hold.
 

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Also make sure that the scallops are well-seated in the grooves on the receiver when you're tightening them. If they're canted on an angle they'll shake into the correct groove where they will be loose. I haven't had any issues with mine coming loose with blue loctite, and actually return somewhat ok to zero on reinstall, say 4" or so at 50 yards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I cleaned the screws a bit and the loctite was on for 3 days since I had to wait to get to the range. The rings were already on the gun when I bought it so I just clamped my scope on and went to shoot. It is possible one or the other ring may not have been perfectly seated in the mounts but I didn't see any sort of problems and they looked right when I tightened the screws down. I looked at the slots and didn't see any witness, burrs or wear marks.

I ordered the Weigland. I need it anyway since I shoot with a scope, a red dot or a reflex sight depending on what I am up to. I just wish all them people would standardize on the allen head sizes like small, medium and large. I have at least 12 fracken allen wrenches in my gun tool bag. Then of course Ruger requires a wide flat blade screw driver. I have a universal small/large - philips head/flat head on one screw driver. it comes in handy.
 

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I really like my mini but for reasons like this Ruger needs to get it's corporate butt kicked. Get rid of this proprietary ring crap and just drill and tap the darn receiver.

Can the ring mounts be milled off and the receiver D&T'd for normal mounts?
 

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I don't have any problem with the receiver mounts. Just have to have the right rings and quick detach for easy service. The only way to fly! IMO Maxima Ruger Rings
 

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The Ruger scope mounting system is a really strong and consistant one.

However getting the screws to seat in the scappops can be a little tricky. Something that makes proper seating easier is to grease all contacting surfaces between the reciever, rings, and screws. I also grease the nuts. Then of course push down on the screw head firmly, keeping scallops firmly engaged, while tightening the nuts.

My experience with the quality of Ruger's machine work hasn't been awe inspiring. It is very likely the rings need to be lapped. I have never seen rings that need lapping as badly as those mounted on my Rugers - I have probably mounted scopes on at least 1/2 dozen Ruger rifles and they all needed lapping, and 2 or 3 needed pretty major lapping.

Then degrease and Locktite when mounting the ring caps. I have never had a scope or mounts come loose on a Ruger or any other rifle.
 

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....My experience with the quality of Ruger's machine work hasn't been awe inspiring. It is very likely the rings need to be lapped. I have never seen rings that need lapping as badly as those mounted on my Rugers - I have probably mounted scopes on at least 1/2 dozen Ruger rifles and they all needed lapping, and 2 or 3 needed pretty major lapping...
Agreed. I've come to the point where I simply leave the Ruger rings in the rifle box and store 'em.

I've only lapped 3 or 4 sets now but they all were out to a degree that bordered on ridiculous for a renowned manufacturer.

I now go straight to Warne rings and life is good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I can see what they were attempting to do with the base mount. Since you have to pull the scope to do a thorough cleaning of the gun they wanted a way to re-mount it and have it come back fairly close to zero when you re-installed it. There just is not enough meat there on those small side slots and the top side notch for a really solid mount on a rifle with some velocity to it in my opinion. For a .22 they would probably work fine. I never checked the insides of the rings to see if they needed lapping to true them up.
 

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I lapped mine, they needed a bit on each edge of the ring to make them smooth, but were completely square between each other.

I bought the Warne QD rings, but I don't like how bulky they look around the receiver so I haven't put them on yet. Stupid? Probably, but I spend a lot more time looking at my guns than shooting them...
 

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It appears I shall be served a bit o' boot leather on this topic...

I was recently discussing Ruger rings with a couple friends and espousing my opinion as noted above. One of the fellows decided he'd like to have me lap his Ruger rings for him. "No worries", says I, "I'm sure they need it."

He brings his rig over and I clamp it up in the vise. Break out the lap bar and drop it in the uncapped rings. Hmmm, very good alignment. Apply a bit of compound, cap the rings and make a few light passes. Uncap, give 'em a cloth wipe for a visual.

Damn things are near spot on. Didn't really need my anal administrations at all.

Now, if I can only figure out how to get this rather large boot outta my mouth.... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Turns out that my rings are black on a stainless gun. I am now wondering if these are not Ruger made rings and are somebody else's cheap knock offs. They only have the number 5 stamped or cast into them and no Ruger logo.

I looked at the scope mounting area and the caps are not straight so they would need to be lapped to work right.
 
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