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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i installed a wolff xtra power recoil spring in my 1998 built mini-14 ranch rifle and accuracy (which wasn't really bad with the standard recoil spring also) improved significantly.

could this be due to the split second the bolt keeps locked longer than with the standard recoil spring and doing so allows the bullet to completly pass the barrel before the charging handle moves backwards and rotates the bolt, so less movement in the gun till the bullet passes the muzzle?

otherwise i can't explain to myself, why the xtra power recoil spring should have an effect on the accuracy.

has anyone an idea or clue?
 

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I try to live by the law of unintended consequences. I do not question your report of apparent improvement in accuracy by going to a different spring, however, no telling what adverse effects this may have down the line. In other words, the OEM spring was designed to a specific strength for a reason. I, for one, would stick to the more obvious choices after break-in such as stock bedding and/or a trigger job preferably done by a professional such as GunDoc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
trigger job was already done years ago, works perfect from then on.

the effects down the line are also my concern.
i fear the xtra power spring slams the bolt harder back to battery than the standard spring. so i fear damage on bolt, receiver, gas pipe etc.

others say there is no need to worry, the mini is built like a tank, but i don't wanna ruin the rifle.

i don't wanna ride a front buffer on the gas pipe, cause it decreases the dwell time / bolt opening due to its thickness it decreases the way the charging handle moves backwards without beginning to rotate the bolt.
 

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hostilenativelibertarian.
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:lol:You guys worry if you want-but i've had a wolf or some other extra power spring in my 183 mini since '84 and still no FTF's
 

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Runnin' and gunnin'.
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stiffer recoil spring should cause it to slam forward harder, and hit less in the back. So I would recommend one 1911 buffer up front at least, shaved down to your liking. It'll help a ton.
 

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communism hater
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stiffer recoil spring should cause it to slam forward harder, and hit less in the back. So I would recommend one 1911 buffer up front at least, shaved down to your liking. It'll help a ton.
This. A full buffer on the op rod and a shaved down buffer on the gas tube is magical. My mini is a fine shooter and has never had a failure of any kind. There are many things you can do as a mini owner to improve upon the design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i understand the sense of the buffer on the gas pipe, the space there is large enough for a full 1911 WC buffer (full thickness) BUT what about prematurely opening of the bolt, cause the front buffer decreases the dwell time / bolt opening due to its thickness it decreases the way the charging handle moves backwards without beginning to rotate the bolt. the charging handle has less "free space" with the front buffer installed and so opens the bolt earlier (prematurely?)?
 

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I don't understand all this concern over buffers changing the "timing" of the Mini action. I've been running buffers front and rear for over 2 years and 1,000 rounds, and NEVER had an issue. You're not going to cause an out-of-battery ignition, you're not going to screw up the "timing" by adding a buffer. It's not a revolver... :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@cobrien:
do you have a WC 1911 blue buffer on the gas pipe as front buffer?
full thickness or sanded down?

@kwg020:
could also be the first round flyer, but not only, the whole group is much tighter than with the factory standard spring

@junkman192:
so, if the boltz still closes completely and the charging handle still has play till the bolt starts to rotate you woudln't worry 'bout a front buffer, right?
do you have a WC 1911 blue buffer on the gas pipe as front buffer?
full thickness or sanded down?
 

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Runnin' and gunnin'.
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That's correct, as long as it folds over, you're in good shape. I run one on my gas pipe that I halved, not for the issue you're having, just so I could have one in the back too lol. That's what we call, being cheap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i see, thanks a lot.
so you had no probs at all with premature opening and gas overpressure, right?

do you also have installed a heavy recoil spring, or just the 2 buffers?
 

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Dusty, with a buffer installed the operating rod is held away from the gas block by the thickness of the buffer, this creates more volume in the the gas pipe cylinder of the rod, pressure must build enough to operate the rod. by creating more volume it will take more time to build enough pressure to move the operating rod, so in theory you may have slowed the time/dwell duration, but I doubt it.
 

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I couldn't find it on youtube, but in '57 the DOA did a high-speed film study to determine if the the op-rod on 'the M14 engaged before the bullet left the barrel. Although apparently a close race, it did not. Assuming the mini operates in a similar fashion, having a front full-thickness buffer wont matter one bit.
Some will disagree, but thems the facts. Just sayin'.
 

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Junkman,
Do you notice any change over time with the front buffer? It is where it gets pretty hot if you shoot a long string. I would expect the plastic to heat and change shape, thickness or elasticity over time. Do you see a difference in POI or accuracy if the front buffer is removed or replaced. I'm toying with using one (have the 1911 rear buffer) but hate to add a "variable" to my rifle. It would seem to me that the buffer would be different after 500 rounds than when new as it is subject to constant spring pressure, pounding, fouling and heat.
 
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