Perfect Union banner
1 - 6 of 51 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
8,460 Posts
One other aspect I have not seen addressed in this thread is the ideal of which is more durable over the really long haul - super high round count and long long term use.

In this case I would give the advantage to the revolver, since it has no cycling, and the lack of reciprocating parts means no impact within the mechanism. Its just a question of brute strength.

Here's an article that claims a Security Six with 1.4 million rounds fired w/o parts breakage. Ruger Security-Six .357 Magnum Revolver The reference is in the last paragraph.

That's extreme in my book - keep springs at least, since they do sometimes go in use. Yes, I know about polymer frame guns that have gone through super high round counts with little or no parts breakage, but I also know of polymer frames that have ended up as chew toys when someone left 'em where Fido could access them. Fido would need teeth like a woodchipper to hurt a steel frame revolver.

So if you are thinking in terms of the long haul ("I want one gun I will buy when I'm 25 and they can put it in the casket with me when I kick the bucket 6 or 7 decades later") then a revolver may be the way to go. If you're not planning on taking it with you, it could also be the one gun that gets passed down to the young 'uns, should the gun-grabbers win this time or the next (they'll always be back - like the damn' Terminator without the cool shades or accent).

I would pick a steel frame over aluminum, Ruger>S&W>Colt for durability (Colts are notorious for going out of time with hard use). If durability is your only concern (say its an outdoors survival piece in bear country, suitably chambered for say a .44mag), go single action > double action, since the lockwork on the single action is simpler so less likely to go wrong.

If you're thinking in terms of self defense EDC, consider a SP101 (if you can carry it - its a bit big), steel frame S&W J, or Colt Detective Special. For a full sized service gun (4" bbl), a GP100, S&W K frame (.38spl), or S&W L frame (.357 6 shot models only!) would be the way to go. Go stainless for low maintenance, and if you have a blued piece that you want rust resistant consider getting it hard chromed. Given cost considerations I would go Ruger if its new production.

Just some thoughts. If the gun grabbers ever get their way, not only will revolvers be some of the last ones to go on that big list of no-no's but they will be banging away long after possessing one is a big bad crime. Lurk around some of the UK sites and you'll find guides on making your own .38 ammo from scratch. Not economically viable here, even with the drought, but its good to know it can be done at all.

All the best,
Grumpy
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,460 Posts
Yep....love my SP101....with 130gr Federal Hydra-shoks.

There is just something to be said when a caliber has more energy at 100 yards than a 9mm has at the muzzle.



To be fair, I really do like my carry 9mm also:

Hi 45K20E4;

Very nice guns!

Those grips on the SP101 look great for taming recoil, but as an EDC do you use IWB or a belt rig and loose shirt? Are there any printing issues with the 'full' grip rather than the 2-finger specials I've been using?

I've been sticking with the J-Smith since I like front pocket carry in this climate. But with the right holster an SP101 may be in my future at some point....really want something just a little bigger and badder in case I ever do end up as the sheepdog on the scene someday. I keep bouncing between a Glock 26, which is logistic with what I've already got and another wheelgun, just one that's a bit...well a bit more gun if you catch my drift.

Guess the main question is how easy is it to conceal the extra weight of that steel frame and the slightly longer grips? I'd feel way better going up against a badguy if I had an SP101 like yours instead of my little J-frame Smith. Thing is that the best gun is the gun that's there when you need it.

Best,
Grumpy
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,460 Posts
Grumpy -

The grip isn't really a "full grip" per say..certainly not full size like the GP100 grip. it's more of a 3/4 grip. Just enough for me to get all my fingers on. It does wonders at taming the recoil AND keeping the pistol from rotating out of my hand. This is firing hand loaded 158gr JRN on top of 15grains of 2400. It's a hotter round than the 130gr Hydra-Shok that it's normally loaded with. Typically I don't fan the hammer (bad practice) but I was trying to see how accurate it was at longer range. I did clean up the trigger surfaces a bit for a cleaner break, and it has slightly lighter springs in it still probably 5 pounds in DA mode though....it's not going off by accident.

Ruger SP101 - YouTube

I typically wear loose shirts, t-shirts, Dickies work shirts, etc. that I don't tuck in. Both for comfort, and because tucking a shirt in over a EDC makes it much tougher to get it out quickly. I've never had a printing issue, and think the SR9c is slightly harder to conceal due to the shape.

I've used a Milt Sparks Versa Max 2 IWB holster for the past 10 years. It is extremely comfortable and keeps the SP in place. I'll work a car show or fund raiser and wear it all day with no issues. I'm a firm believe that a good holster and a proper belt can make all the difference in comfort.

VersaMax 2:

Thanks much 45K20E4!

Ever since I got my CHL down here I've been a little nervous about accidentally "flashing" the piece since our CHL law is a bit odd - you're actually committing a crime if you either enter a GFZ or allow the piece to be seen (at least that's what our instructor had to say on it, and my reading of statute law seemed to bear this out at the time). We're still trying for open carry, but its an uphill battle for some reason.

Got a couple items on the agenda to take care of before I add something like an SP101, but I think it or a vintage S&W M66 snubbie will be there soon. Still paying on a .45 with a prancing pony on the side, and just put myself on the hook for a 4" Security Six. So many guns and so little $$!

Thanks also for the tips on leather - my only good leather right now are a couple Galcos - a Miami Classic for the Glock 19 (only works if I'm wearing a suit) and one of the Executive holsters for J-Smith. That one is a bit much for such a small revolver but it works wonderfully!

Best,
Grumpy
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,460 Posts
I was always taught that if a semi-auto pistol jams then you're probably going to be able to fix it; but, if a revolver jams then you're screwed!

As already noted: I don't really worry about pistol jams. Fixing one is second nature to me; but, once a revolver's cylinder locks up you're going to need a rubber mallet and/or a set of screwdrivers in order to get it to let go.

The real question is frequency. Revolvers only rarely lock up; and pistols, although easy to repair, jam more often.
All absolutely true. These days I gravitate towards the revolvers of my younger days, but I still use my autos.

If forced to choose ("you can only own one") it would be a tough choice between
1. Colt Detective Special
2. Ruger GP100
3. Colt 1911
4. Uberti .45LC Peacemaker replica
5. S&W M15 Combat Masterpiece

Each has advantages and disadvantages. In an urban setting the DS would probably get the nod, in the back woods, the GP100 or Peacemaker. For genuine combat, I'd probably go with the 1911.

But for the sheer joy of shooting, I think the winner would be a S&W Combat Masterpiece. Sure its only .38 Spl, but the balance and fine sights have made it my overall favorite 4" K frame.

And you're right, when a revolver locks up you'd better have a New York reload handy. But I don't let that bother me - I just use what I like best.

Most of the time for me that's a wheel gun.

Best,
Grumpy
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,460 Posts
Sometimes (like recently) I'll carry a beautiful S&W Model 686 with a 2 1/2 inch fully shrouded barrel. I know how to shoot double-action; and against only one protagonist I doubt I'd have a problem. Of all the handguns I own I, probably, like my 686 the best; but, at the same time, I have no illusions about what I can or can't do with it. Basically it's a, 'one on one' handgun.

Now that my hand is finally healing from a recent surgery I'm back to carrying a full capacity Glock Model 21. It allows me to quite freely double and triple tap my targets. In this day and age of numerous street gangs - with multiple assailants being the norm rather than the exception - a full capacity 45 ACP pistol is the (correct) hand tool to use.

(Ask any police officer!) ;)
Y'know you make a really good point.

I've avoided the big cities like plague but if I were to have to go back to the Chicago 'burbs for family reasons, I'd probably put my Glock back on that list for just the reason you cite.

Down here, if a street gang got that uppity, there's so many armed citizens around that it wouldn't turn out well for them and that's a fact. That's the main reason I don't feel too uncomfortable with my S&W Centennial as EDC - like yourself, I know how to shoot a DA revolver well.

I'm still pretty old school though, and wouldn't feel ill equipped with a Combat Masterpiece in a Jordan BP rig with my concealed Colt DS. If things ever went "Watts 2.0", I'd be trying to e&e to safer turf and would prefer a 12 ga pumper like an Ithaca 37 riot model (1970's and previous guns didn't have the disconnect and I can trombone those actions PDQ) to clear the way, backed up by those wheelguns.

But you're 100% right for some urban cesspool, a full cap Glock makes sense, a lot of it.

Best,
Grumpy
 
1 - 6 of 51 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top