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is there a trick to removing them? i thought that ruger staked them so they are not removable. how do i remove them with out breaking the screww or stripping it out. My brother has one that is missing a screw already so i may as well try to fix it up. how?:2guns:
 

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I have a fairly new mini-30 that is only about a year old and I had no problem removing the gas block allen screws when I added the versapod adaptor. The screws had small dimples on the end but they still came out without much effort.
 

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Mine came out with some effort, even sparked like a bic lighter when they released. I used some new screws with the Ultimak scout rail I mounted so I'm not sure if the old ones are still good.
 

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I had trouble with mine. I may have used the wrong sized allen wrench. I think they use an odd size and I remember ordering a couple of wrenches. One of them I epoxied into a 1/4" socket so I could use it with my torque wrench.

I also ordered 4 more gas block screws. Give Ruger a call. I remember that they were reasonably priced and they charged reasonable shipping.

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Loosen each bolt a very little bit, and work your way around, gradually loosening each one a little more, until there is no chance of the gas block bolts binding. The "staked" screws are just Ruger's way of making sure the bolts don't loosen by themselves under normal firing stress. If you loosen/tighten/loosen each bolt as you take it out, you should have no problems with breaking bolts or binding.
 

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do you mean loosen a little tighten it back then loosen a little more?
Yes. This way you wear down the stakes so as not to damage the screw. Maby 4 times per screw 1/4 turn back and forth. We use Loctite blue on the threads on reinstall so the screws stay untill we decide to remove them again. Gap the gas block halves with a feeler guage, and snug the screws evenly. Also make shure the allen wrench is new or not worn. They wear out in less time than you think, then they strip out the hex.
 

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this whole process makes me nervous. how important is the 17 in/lbs? my dad has a big ol' torch wrench but i think it only measures ft/lbs. i suppose since i'll be doing it more than a few times in the life of the gun (for cleaning) i should buy a small torch wrench and an allen head socket. what do you guys use? thanks for the help.
 

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Its "torque" wrench...
I just use my finger-crank "thatfeelsaboutright" gauge. Just make sure you torque and space evenly all the way around. Measure the factory gap before you start.

When you are putting it back together, do it the same way as you take it off - tighten each one a little at a time. Work your way around until you are done - just like they do with pipe flanges. Don't forget your Loctite Blue.

It doesn't have to be exactly 17 in-lbs. Make them tight, but not Godzilla-tight. You don't want to pinch that tin-foil barrel too much. Your dad's torque wrench will work. 17 in-lbs = 1.417 ft-lbs.

I do this in the field all the time with no torque wrench. Don't be afraid.
 

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Just an update on the torque value. Since Ruger had no torque value for these screws, I used Boeings specs for this size screw (wet threads, Loctite) My gas block aparently sliped down the barrel. This resulted in my gas port bushing getting galded. I am updating the torque from the 17-24in/lbs to 24-36 in/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, use flight-line torque ( a felt kinda thing). Just use common sense, and tighten them evenly (same feel). Just not gorilla tight. Don't forget the loctite, and to gap the halves evenly. ;)
 

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I am sure that everyone has read in their Ruger mini 14 owners manual NOT TO REMOVE THE GAS BLOCK which I never did until I read about it on this site.It ain't no big deal!!I did notice that the gap btween the block halves was not even before I removed the block.I know that it had never been removed before.It is more even now, but the gap space still varies just a little.
Also, I ran across the method for figuring torque values while in engineering school.Hmmmm........maybe I can find it.it's been along time ago.............
 
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