[warthog maintainer]

So Im just starting to reload .223 for mini 14. So whats the best projectile, powder, and primers to use. I have a 180 series mini 1976 so need to keep my pressures down for .223. I'm not doing nothing but throwing lead at paper or tannerite and maybe a few coyotes. Whatmaybe my best results for all to include so rapid fire sessions with friends any advice. Thanks

 

[Tailgunner]

Wow, what a wide open question.
Now you answer one for me.
I have a car I'm just starting to drive, what are the best tires, spark plugs and gasoline to use?
I don't plan to drive it fast, just around town and on the highway, with maybe a few nights of street light drag racing with my buds.

 

[dh1633pm]

Your questions does open the big can of worms. There are plenty of good loads for the Mini. If your loading for .223 there are many powders, primer and bullet combinations. I prefer 55 or 62 grain bullets and for just plinking I used fmj's wherever I can find them. There is another post just like this one asking for load information and I think it has had a lot of responses. The things to remember, be careful. Get a good manual. Always double check data you get from internet sources. I always make a dummy round when setting things up and make sure it chambers and cycles.

 

[fishslayerbob]

My best advice?

NEVER get loads off the internet!!!!!!!!!!

Get your loads out of a reloading manual. Follow all recipies to the T!!!!!!!!!!!
You can get favorite powder or bullet advice here, but you MUST put together your ammo from a proven recipie. That goes for C.O.L. as specified in the book. I use a dial caliper from Home Defect. I know that it's accurate to within a few thousandths and that's close enough.

fishslayerbob

 

[Bolero]

Just like Fishslayer bob said, work from the book, not individual advice on the internet. These days your bullet/powder/primer choices may be very limited.

 

[Pet-Rock]

^^^^This^^^

I managed to snag a Hornady 2 die 223 set (Decapper and Full Length Sizer) and a RCBS neck sizer both in January and haven't seen any sense.

Same goes for small rifle primers and bullet components of any manufacturer around here. If you want cartridge components, right now the only real way to do it is to back order and pray.

That said, powder is probably the one place that you'll be able to pick up something. Might not be what you're looking for, but its something. While researching powders before all this crap, I compiled a list of very well liked powders by all from a multitude of forums. These were ones that work well with 308 and 223, but whatever.

AA 2520
BLC2
Ramshot TAC
Varget- heavier bullets
H335
H4895
WIN 748 (WC750)- lighter bullets
RL-15
H4064
CFE223
AA2230
IMR 3031

 

[hottarod]

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

I trust this guy. His name is Chuck Hawks and he is a legend.
Reloading Page

 

[tri70]

What components do you have now? Primers are hard to find now with the heavier bullets. Powders can be found if you look at the right places. 1st get a manual and read how not to blow up your gun!

What do you have?

 

[40nascar]

So Im just starting to reload .223 for mini 14. So whats the best projectile, powder, and primers to use. I have a 180 series mini 1976 so need to keep my pressures down for .223. I'm not doing nothing but throwing lead at paper or tannerite and maybe a few coyotes. Whatmaybe my best results for all to include so rapid fire sessions with friends any advice. Thanks

When all else fails, read the instruction manual! In your case I believe it says to feed your mini with military spec ball ammo. In 1976 that would be the equivalent of M193, 55gr fmj bullet. The manual also states that the use of reloaded ammunition is not recommended.

 

[45K20E4]

The manual also states that the use of reloaded ammunition is not recommended.

True, but many manuals say that as a CYA tactic for the firearm companies.

I would stay in the 50-55gr bullet weight range for your older Mini with its twist rate. Also, I usually load my ammo to the max headspace of the chamber, minus a few thousandths to keep the bullet off the rifling. However, this is almost impossible with the long chamber the Mini has, so I load them as long as I can and still reliably run them in the magazine.

 

[warthog maintainer]

I have all the reloading equipment just havent bought any supplies yet was thinking 55 gr soft tip didnt know if it would chamber good for rapid plinking. FMJ good for everthing but hunting but wanted a multi projectile. Or what about a hollow point. My reloading bible hasnt hasnt made it here but im going make sure I stay with the correct load so I dont get a new face. Just really looking for the multi projectile or should i just get 2 different ones plinking and then hunting. 500 soft tip for 50$ isnt bad what yall think

 

[hottarod]

I am not a fan of soft tips. I think they are basically old technology.

Polymer tips like the SST and V-Max have the advantage of a pointed round with the expansion of a hollow point and better ballistics coefficients. I'm a Hornady fan as you can see.

I only buy Hornady bullets. I only shoot Hodgdon powders. I only run CCI primers. It keeps everything a lot more simple but those are just my own choices.

For analyzing your loads you may want to look up a freeware program called Point Blank if you don't already have something. It lets you set up and save each of your loads including storing factory loads. It prints ballistics out to 1000 yards and also includes various value windages. I print out the tables for all my loads and keep them in a small binder. There are several other features as well. Its a decent program for free.

 

[al1460]

Something else to consider is a Wilson case length gauge, see part # 268-983
Mid Way U.S.A. measures case length after sizing. Helps avoid out of battery UN-pleasantness.

 

[45K20E4]

I run various bullets (Hornady V-Max, Sierra MatchKings, Game Kings and Varminters). My best accuracy has come from the Game Kings (just over an inch at 100y).

If you search "blemish bullets" online you can usually find factory seconds in bulk packs for cheap...ok maybe right at this moment....but usually. Most recently I scored some V-Max 150gr for my .308 Win...100 for $20.

 

[Hardwired]

Load Manuals

Which reloading manuals are you guys using?

I went to reloading class which had hands on reloading.
I picked up the Lee manual and woul like to get the Hornady but the latest edition is a bit expensive.

Ordered the Hornady single stage press and the 223 die set. All on back order but I have time.

Do you guys like the Lee Perfect Powder Measure?
It worked well with the flake powder we used but here some complains on stick.

 

[Tailgunner]

HW
I use the latest Nosler and Sierra for reloading, with the Speer and Hornady for backup/reference.
I have a number of others, like Donnally's "The Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions", Phil Sharpes "Complete Guide to Handloading", A-Square "Any Shot You Want", Parker Ackley's books, along with older editions of the 4 I mentioned in the first sentence (all told, I have about 30 manuals on the shelf).

For a powder measure, I switch between my old RCBS Uniflow (came with my (used) press back in the 70's) and new RCBS ChargeMaster, depending on which rifle I'm reloading for

 

[Hellgate]

You should have at least one full manual from a powder or bullet manufacturer and read all the safety and technique stuff so you are reloading safely. Then you can get "Loadbooks" that are cartridge specific and have all the data for your particular caliber from a variety of bullet, powder, and mold manufacturers. I like the Loadbooks. There are often variances in recommended loads from different companies so you need to sometimes wing it for the starting load and max load you are willing to try.