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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,

I am still waiting for my rifle permit and I am ignorant of many things related to civilian ownership of a firearm. In military I never had to concern myself about weapon selection, cost of ammo or reloading.

Could you please give me a brief general info on reloading and where to get good info.

If I were to reload .223, possibly 7.62x39 and .308 - how much would it cost per round assuming cheapest suitable bullets for target practice.
What are components of such cost - powder, primers, bullets - anything else?
How many times can one reuse the brass? What kind of equipment would I need and approximate cost? Can one reloading device accomodate all my needs?

Voruzon
 

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You need to get a book on this and maybe find someone you know who handloads. I would go to http://www.midwayusa.com and use that place a start for your component search.
I would suggest the kit from RCBS that will have the tools you need less specific dies. The components' cost vary widely, especially the bullets. But primers are fairly even, at about $20-22 per thousand, but it may be different for you and your area.

Actually, you need to get a manual. But there is one thing-you get what you pay for (warning about LEE)....if you have more specific questions, then feel free to ask.
 

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Reloading, one of my favorite subjects.:D If I have my brass prept, I reload 100 rds in about an hour, sometimes a little longer, I use a semi progressive set up. I never hurry, and double check each stage. I like lyman, but from others RCBS is similar in quality.

My brass cost $19/500 x10(assuming up to 10reloads per case). or .38 cents per rd. (Lake City once fired brass)
Bullets $9/100= 9 cents/rd.
Powder $16/lb = 300 loads=5.3 cents/rd
Primers $21/1000=2.1 cents/rd

1 bullet cost 16.8 cents or $3.36 per box of 20 for Match quality, hunting, target, or homedefense, which ever you want.
This cost a little more than cheep wolf etc, but is way cheeper than about any domestic factory ammo. How much you save over time depending on the cost of equipment will pay for itself in a short time.

For a First reloading manual, I would HIGHLY RECOMEND Lyman 47th Reloading Handbook. Besides Rifle, and pistol reloading data, it has 22 chapters on reloading with pictures, so you will understand what your are doing when reloading. Reloading is dangerous if you don't know what you are doing!

One note if you order Primers, or powder you will pay a hazzardous shipping charge. It may be expensive just for a small amount. Its better to buy, at a gun show, or gun shop. I live near a warehouse, so I don't have to pay the hazzard fee.
Here are some links with lots of info on reloading. One site has each stage of reloading in a vertial video so you can watch. Hope this helps. ;) http://www.accuratereloading.com/223comp.html
http://www.reload-nrma.com/
http://www.reloadammo.com/
 

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mikr---I need to take exception to your little blurb about Lee reloading equipment. Agreed that some of their stuff looks a little cheesy when compared to the high dollar brands but for the price you can't beat it for someone just getting into reloading. I wouldn't recommend a beginer go out & spend a lot of money on something he doesn't know if he'll enjoy or not. I have never found anything wrong with the quality of their dies & just look at the price. I have used one of their "Auto Prime" hand priming tools for twenty five years & it's never failed me. Lee equipment does exactly what it's advertised to do & at a reasonable price.

Just my 2¢
Bushwack

PS For the bulk of my reloading I use RCBS
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, guys.

Since I love to tinker with stuff more than use it, I am sure reloading will be a lot of fun.
I am trying to come up with a general estimate of what the gun-owning would cost.
How many rounds is it reasonably to expend during a year? I will probably be able to shoot about once a month/ How many rounds pers seccion could one shoot? 100?
Whan doing archery, I would shoot 6 arrows at most 8 before my hands would be useless (I have a 62 lb longbow). That seemed fine to keep proficiency by 1-2 time a week seccions. Of course archery, especially without sights requires more repetition than rifle.

Would it be correct to say that cost of ammo greatly exceeds cost of reasonable weapons over time?

Voruzon.
 

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I think you should spend what you can afford to on guns and ammo. If you reload you will be able to shoot a great deal longer with your low cost reloads as well as tailor your loads to your liking. Once you get the bug however, it is hard to not spend a bunch on it. Bottom line is to have fun.

I would also say that Lee dies are very good. I reload 7.62x39 as well as various pistol calibers with Lee dies and they work just fine and dandy!
 

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Originally posted by voruzon
Thanks, guys.

Since I love to tinker with stuff more than use it, I am sure reloading will be a lot of fun.
I am trying to come up with a general estimate of what the gun-owning would cost.
How many rounds is it reasonably to expend during a year? I will probably be able to shoot about once a month/ How many rounds pers seccion could one shoot? 100? Yes. I shoot about 40 every other week. Sometimes more often. Varies greatly with each shooter.
Whan doing archery, I would shoot 6 arrows at most 8 before my hands would be useless (I have a 62 lb longbow). That seemed fine to keep proficiency by 1-2 time a week seccions. Of course archery, especially without sights requires more repetition than rifle. I shoot 36 arrows per hour with my 40% break off compound. I use sights on my bow, as buck fever will negate your instinct for instinctive shooting. It is a preference thing.

Would it be correct to say that cost of ammo greatly exceeds cost of reasonable weapons over time? Yep just as interest, gas, tires, maintence, tags, and insurrance will exceed the cost of your car/truck.

Voruzon.
 

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He's in New York, the home of gun control. Forcast for the future? Or was that Mass? Sometimes I can't tell the diff.:ar15:
 

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PSG1. We love it. My fav thing to say is "My neighbor had to eat his dog last Winter" and so on. Have shot deer/elk from every window that will open in the house and from two of the 3 doors.

Things are changing now though, just today the neighbor ( a mile away) noted that I had "sure been shooting alot lately". A few years back no one would say anything. So I told him I was just getting the range on an oil spill--never know what it might bring in!! ! :usa: :ar15: :2guns: :rapid:
 

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LOL Billc you have me rolling... "Range on an oil spill" LOL!

Yeah, I remember living in Colorado. We had the Colorado National Monument in our back yard and BLM land surrounding the rest. I used to go shooting every single day. Boy, them jackrabbits is FAST! :eek:



:ar15:
 

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First of all I do not reload so I could be just full of crap but.......
I did look into it because I wanted to make cheap ammo to shoot. I found that if you just want to blast tin cans or the neighbors dog surplus military ammo is so darn cheap and then there is that darn steel cased wolf ammo it is hard to justify reloading FOR THAT REASON. But if you want to develop accurate loads, shoot with different kinds/weights of bullets or just plain keep busy doin fun gun stuff that they are much better reasons than just trying to make cheap ammo.
I would still love to reload but until they invent a decent portable set up or one of my four kids move out of my garageless house and frees up a bed room I will just have to continue drooling at the dillon catalog......
http://dillonprecision.com/template/p.cfm?...m?maj=30&dyn=1&
Mark The Drooler
 

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Please check your private messages in your user cp. Thanks
 

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I would HIGHLY RECOMEND Lyman 47th Reloading Handbook
Agreed - I just bought one and wished I would have got it a long time ago. I just started re-loading this year and could have saved my money of the three other manuals I bought. The Lyman is the best one to buy first!
 

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I have never looked at the Lyman, does it list loads for all of the bulllet mfgs and powder mfgs?
 

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It has a good "cross section" of bullets for each caliber.
For example, .308 win has Sierra, Hornady and Nosler bullets represented. But, any bullet of the same weight should work no matter who makes the bullet, whether its listed in the given manual or not.
Another example is the lyman table for 150 grain .308. They are using a Hornady soft point but it could work for just about any 150 grain bullet out there. As to which bullet is best, only your rifle can tell you that.
 

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I'm not disagreeing with anyone on the Lyman book, I started with a Speer manual and now have Nosler and Hornady manuals. They all have some good info and can be used in my opinion to start. I would definitely recommend finding a buddy to help one along. It's a lot of fun to make them up and go try them out. I've not tried any of the progressive loaders, just use my bullet-proof Rock chucker and RCBS dies. It's slower than heck, but still a great way to while away an afternoon. I do use a tumbler to get them nice and shiney. I think that makes a difference in reloading for a semi auto. Plus they are easier to inspect.
I'll have to go find the Lyman book to see what I'm missing!
Spud :usa: :ar15:
 

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Originally posted by djskit
Another example is the lyman table for 150 grain .308. They are using a Hornady soft point but it could work for just about any 150 grain bullet out there. As to which bullet is best, only your rifle can tell you that.
This isn't necessarily true as the bullet configuration affects the reloading characteristics. Not all bullets have the same shape, therefore bearing surface. More bearing surface will raise pressure.
 
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