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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have recently bedded my receiver and gas block using JB Weld. I did originally get the Brownells acraglass but couldn't get it to work in the right mix, I spoke with my LGS and after some more debate and research went with the JB weld since it was available localy. In the process I added to the character on my stock (dings and scratches and such) and I am wanting to strip it down and refinish it, although I am worried that the varnish remover or other chemicals might harm the bedding in some way. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks!
 

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0000 Steel wool works really well
 

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Are you looking to refinish it to stock or go with something different? I've always wanted to get mine a little darker, richer looking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you looking to refinish it to stock or go with something different? I've always wanted to get mine a little darker, richer looking.
I am hoping to get it darker. I have a can of Minwax Red Mahogony left over from another project that I was thinking about using. It has held up well on other outdoor products with the right seal coat; but I might get some of the Minwax gel stain depending on what would work better for heavier outdoor use.

I dont mind sanding it down with some 120 grit on a foam block or steel wool either, I just dont know how much of the material that would take away since I dont know how deep it is, so I'd rather try to 'pull it out' at least a little bit with some kind of remover. I might have to check out that citristrip...
 

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Citri strip, it clean. Then take an iron on steam to all the deeper divots. Or you can throw it in the dish washer and it will come out dent free with clean wood(no heat dry). The grain will be raised and you will have to lightly sand the whole thing. Do some googling and see what the milsurp guys are using on their rifle stocks. I would use a walnut stain on a Mini 14 rifle stock, then either a million coats of BLO or some type of poly sealant.
 

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1st - "paint" stock with Citristrip non-aerosol version. Old finish will "bubble up" and remove with clean towels that have a high nap.

2nd - Place stock in clean container that has been filled with boiling hot water and some Cascade dishwaher detergent. This will raise the dents and clean out the gun oil & citristrip. Follow up with a bath in JUST boiling hot water (no Cascade detergent).

3rd - Air dry.

4th - fine sand.

5th - stain.

6th - seal.
 

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Guys,

Cool it with the dishwasher and boiling water. This isn't a 75 year old tomato-stake-grade oil-soaked piece of junk lumber. That kind of treatment is last-ditch effort for wood that is otherwise unserviceable. It'll sometimes put a twist in your forearm or develop cracks when it tries too fast.

Use some kind of stripper. I use zip strip if I feel compelled to strip finish. Then scrub it with a half worn out Stotch Brite green pot scrubber and some warm slightly soapy water. Youre only wetting the outside and rinsing off the remanants of the stripper.

Once try the little hairs will raise on the wood grain. Knock it back with a fine sandpaper or sanding pad. Don't use steel wool. It has oil in it, and will leave steel fibers that are near impossible to remove. If you want a really smooth finish rewet the surface, let dry, repeat, until no more hairs raise up. LIGHTLY sand to remove hairs. If you sand back into fresh wood you will release new hairs and the process will never end.

Once you're down to nothing but clean wood it's time to add color. Alcohol-based dyes are best. Feibings leather dye works great. Chestnut Ridge wood dye is OK but too red for my tastes. They can be cut with rubbing alcolol to give you good control over color and also prevent streaking. Once colored topcoat with a clear poly for best durability. I thinkk brush-on with light coats is better than spray.

I don't like tinted poly finishes because it's really not staining the wood, it's just a tinted clear coating. The color doesn't get into the wood. If you want it darker you're out of luck except to keep laying on more coats of colored plastic.

Boiled linseed and Tung oil is nice for military rifles but hardly the best choice for water resistance and durability. A satin or matte poly is way better if it's not a collectible military firearm.

Chilly
 
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