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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, Long time reader first time poster, I' m wondering if it would be a bad idea to install a homemade buffer at both the reciever end and the gas block end.I have some 1/8" closed cell neoprene gasket material and was planning on fabbing my own buffer. A fellow mini owner and I have concurred that said buffer mat. would not limit foreward or rearwrd movement of bolt and/or op. rod. Just wanted to check with the experts, and finally post a (one of many) questions. Thanks for any input.:ar15:
 

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Welcome to the forum! I see no problem with using gasket material, unless that material cannot withstand prolonged exposure to temperature in the range of 300-400 degrees F. Things can get a little toasty in there. If it's automotive gasket material, it shouldn't hurt it. Check the gasket often to see if your are getting any melting/softening. If not, you are good to go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the fast reply: The gasket material should hold up to those kinds of temps. But what I was really driving at is whether or not putting a buffer in the front , as in at the gas block, would be detrimental to cycling. It seems like it would "soften" recoil but not really reduce it, as would the one in the rear. Also, does the trigger job that Mike in OR require that you send him your group and he returns one that has been "worked" but not neccessarily your own?
 

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Hey Ty-T. I did the same thing, it worked great for about 500 rds, then the rubber buffer over the gas piston cracked. It was made of neoprene rubber, it didn't melt, just hardened a little, and cracked. I made one for the rear, where they are usually installed, it works good, but haven't had it long to see how long it will last, but home made they are cheep to make. I talked to Mike Knifong @ NW Shooter support, he is looking into designing one of a more heat resistant material for the gas block area.

Welcome aboard. If you haven't seen it yet there is a search button upper right of your control panel. Click, and enter key words. All related posts will come up.
 

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Mike of Oregon works on the trigger group that you send. Though I have a "standard" trigger done by him, for $10 more you could have an adjustable trigger...... (Mike, please correct me if I am wrong).

Cajungeo is the man regarding the "gas port buffer", as he is probablely the only person, that I have heard, who had put one. I think he as had good results using it, but I will deffer this evaluation to him.

Best Regard,

-thepusher
:trooper:
 

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BTW, Mike is out of town this week on a mission. He has a date with a huge bull elk. We wish him good luck on the hunt. He won't be using his mini, instead he will use a .338 Ultra Mag he built. :D
 

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Ty-T,
Your name is hard to spell. I really liked the cushioned plunk when I put a neoprene O-ring on the gas block.

Unfortunately, the O-ring doesn't last very long. So, next I'm going to try Permatex Red to make a buffer on the gas block. It's supposed to be heat-resistant and remain flexible. I plan to squirt a glob on the gas block, flatten it out as best as possible, and then dremel some grooves in the cured Permatex to make it absorb shock better. I'll report on the results later. Any other ideas are appreciated!

KC
 

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Folks,

Kali has the right idea!!

The form in place gaskets used in the automobile industry are based on silicones (....), which are amongst the most inert and heat resistant polymers known.

If you would like to get better hardness (shock resistance), add fibre glass (as in strands of fibre glass, not in the woven format) in the compound and mix it throughly and apply on the gas port. Also, if you would like to produce this in relatively large quantities, you could buy silicone gasket sheets and cut them to appropriate size.

Another way of doing this may be to use clear silicone caulks, (not the acrylic based caulks, which also dry clear) used in home construction industry, with added carbon or talcumm powder as filler, for making these gaskets. These are all air dry products, so it takes a while for them to cure. The curing process could be hastened by increased moisture in the vicinity (bathroom..), and give a very flexiable and heat resistant compound.

Good luck Kali...!!

-thepusher

PS: Please apply some release agent to the metal surface prior to appling either gasket material, as the removal may not always be easy. Very light coating of gun oil may do the trick.
 

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satan, you crack me up, I was thinking of switching to boxers myself.

Kali, that is a good idea. I have used a similar compound in aircraft, in high heat areas. If I remember correctly it withstands exposure to 500 degrees farenheit. However I agree with pusher on the resistantce to impact. You might want to squirt some samples on a piece of scrap metal with different filler additives (I'm thinking small cut up pieces of neoprene rubber) or the fillers pusher suguested. Cure them them stike repeatedly with a hammer, before trying it on your mini. If it comes apart after a few licks it won't hold up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey fellas great info, The idea of shmoozing buffer material into place sounds a lot more appealing than trying to cut neoprene to size with my wife's toe-nail scissors:D BTW the handle was given to me by my neighbor/shooting buddy because of my (sometimes painful) frugal nature. I tried to change it before my first post but was unable. Wife says she can help and approves of new handle more. So if possible,future posts from me will be from "bargun huntr", the bonus is the avoidance of further undergarment humor :rolleyes: Got a coat of stain drying on a wood stock I picked up for $20. for my ss ranch and I'm looking forward to using this scanner if/when my wife gets it lined out. Just to reitterate what other readers have posted; I'm also very glad to have found this forum! Best source of info for guys like us!
 

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We wern't makin fun of ya Ty, you don't have to change your name, you being the new guy, we just haven a little fun. We are glad to have ya here. :D
 
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