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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1st.Please forgive me for my shi##y spelling.Well I got a chance to go to the range with my Drag. mini 14,100 rounds of PMP ammo,shims,and the usaul stuff.Shimming the stock and the lower gasblock does effect the grouping of the mini.Now the bad part,in order to get any major difference you have to put so much pressure on stock,that it makes the trigger guard very hard to lock in postion for action to be seated in stock properly.And even then I was only getting 1/4" tighter groups.I would pass on this idea guys,I feel its not worth the effort or possable damage to mini to be worth it.Oh well back to the drawing board!! Aldo
 

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I was curious about your idea, and it did bring some results. It's just unfortunate the downside turned out to be weightier than the upside. Nice try aldo, and thanks for letting us know.
 

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Aldo, I'm not much with these mini's but I have tried something that seems to work a little like your "shim" idea. I removed the front piece of metal that would normally touch the gas block. (I have a new SS gun with a synthetic from the factory.) The piece I'm talking about is held in place by some "ears" on the front of that metal rail that the "watchamacallit" rides back and forth on. I then left the rail in place and tapped the "ears" of the rail tightly against the front of the stock. I believe that nothing is touching the gas block.

I've also noticed that the synthetic stock seems to be a very tight fit to the action and may be acting as a good bedding job would. In fact, I really have to muscle the trigger group when I put it together.

I also put one of those Cheaper than Dirt muzzle brakes on and a recoil reducer. I've done a half-assed job of hand lapping the barrel too. With about 14 million rounds (exaggerating a bit) of re-loads, I seem to be getting around 2.5" groups which is more than adequate for me for this type of rifle....I use my bolt guns when I need to defend myself against woodchucks. I'm really attempting to make the gun shoot as accurately as it should without putting any money into it. JOHNNU
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I to started out with a stainless/syntehtic sticked mini.The sheet metal liner in the front part of the stock is a heat sheild,so you don't cook your stock if you rapid fire the mini for a long time.I don't shoot my mini that way so I feel I don't need it.2.5" for a mini is darn good,sounds like you put some effort into fixin her up.It was a shame that the shims didn't work out,I feel that ANY pressure put on a barrel"UP or DOWN"will effect the grouping of a rifle.I my experence some rifles shoot better with presurre put on them,if you free float the barrel it shoots worse."I have 2 model Win model 70's that were this way."Bedding is not a end all solution its put out to be.Sometimes it works,and sometimes it doesn't.Aldo P.S. as always forgive me for my spelling
 

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Aldo, just to clarify, I did not remover the whole metal liner (on the bottom....the one where the operating rod rides on)....I just took the front piece (shaped like a horseshoe) of it off....I left the rest of the liner laying in the stock and peaned the ears against the front of the stock to hold it in place....P.S. those 2.5" groups are only with handloads (seems to like 22.9grs IMR-3031 with Sierra 63 gr soft point.....and sometimes it likes 23.6 grs 3031 with 55 gr soft point). My .222Rem bolt gun (Rem Mod 788) is free floated with glass just from the recoil lug to two inches forward on the barrel for support and a little glass at the very back of the action by the rear screw. It shoots 1/2" all day long. Cheap rifle with Weaver rings and an old Redfield scope.What's wrong with your spelling.......looks fine to me?
 
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