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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is my Ranch Rifle. I just finished the home made strut using the UTG clamps and made the strut out of 304 stainless rod that was media blasted to better match the Mini's barrel finish. It has the Ameca Arms Scout rail and is wearing a NcStar 2X7 scout scope.

It was one of the early Ranch Rifles done in the Grey Laminate stock.

Ken

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Let's see if I can get the full size shot listed here.



Close up of the strut:
 

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Hi! redneckly33 here. I have questions concerning the Mini-14. I have a 580 series .223. I am finding the accuracy of the rifle to be a little suspect. While zeroing rifle at 100yds. It was walking the rounds right on in, like it should and then all of a sudden, it went to shooting all over the paper. while i don't it to be a Tack driver, for the price, i do it exspect to shoot a decent group. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Reneckly33
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I would try it again and if it starts again let it cool and then retest.
One item is it could be the scope going out of adjustment....

I sometimes do a 4 square test: Turn the knobs to move right and up,
You pick how big of a square you want to make 4 or 8 works great at 100 yards.
Take a few shots to make certain it holds that zero setting, Then move it down 2 times the number of clicks to see it it moves correctly. Take a few shots at that setting.
Now the fun part. Turn the knob 2 times as many clicks in the opposite direction to go on the other side of the zero left, shoot a few, then move it twice as many up, shoot a few. Now you should have 4 groups around you original group, each spaced evenly from it. Then move it back to the original setting. If the scope is holding the reticle tight it should go back to the original center point of aim. This is how I check the return to zero setting on my competition scopes.

It is kind of confusing to describe but you should have a target that has a square box around your original setting. Like this:

(STEP 4) 8 UP / \ / \ ::--------:: (STEP 1) 4 over 4 up

(#5) 4 OVER 4 DOWN -> :X: <- Start and Finish point

(STEP 3) 8 OVER < < ::--------:: (STEP 2) 8 DOWN
 

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Thanks for the info. I'll give this a try. It just seems so strange how i made a final adjustment of 2 clicks down, that should have put me with a 1 inch high, 100 yrd zero. The rifle was shooting so well and I was pleased with it. It looks like I jumped into the forum to quick before reading tips and tricks. i oplogize to all the members. I was some kind of upset when the grouping went haywire. The scope is tight, rifle was dirty. came home and scrubbed down good. Some of the tips, I have already completed. flash suppressor and barrel deresonator. Rifle was shooting really well. I'll make it back to range for another sucession soon. Really looking hard at trigger job and bedding on the action. I really appreciate your reply.

redneckly
 

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Ranchrifle, how do you like your NCStar scout scope. Is it the pistol scope with long eye relief? If not, what is the eye relief? How does the scout setup compare to a traditional scope setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have the Amica Scout scope mount with the long eye relief NcStar scope.
The Scout set up allows you tokeep both eyes open and it works great.


I would like to upgrade the scope to a Leopuld but that will be in the future.
I'll try to get to the range next weekend to see how it groups with the new strut I made.
 

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I have had that exact same set up for over 3 years now i bought that same scope off ebay then for 17.00 just to see if i liked the scout setup and its been married to my mini ever since i planned on upgrading it when it breaks but a couple thousand rounds latter and over 50 coyotes and countless javalinas the scope still lives.hopefully yours holds up as well.
 

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I love that factory laminated stock. I've got a cheap NC star 4x scope around here somewhere, has always been rock solid on what ever I had it mounted on.
 
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