[Aldo]

I have read to links that say taking 003" off the top gasblock and retighting 4 allen screws to 17 in pounds and keeping even gap makes a big difference.Anybody tell me the right way to do this,or shiming the gasblock gap?Aldo

 

[bushwack]

aldo
After assuring that the weapon is unloaded remove the operating rod spring, guide & operating rod. The spring guide fits into a pin, with spring pressure removed this pin will be free to fall out so beware, don't loose it. Loosen the 4 allen screws holding the gasblock togather, beware there is a small gas tube that fits between the lower gas block & the barrel it'll likely fall out when you seperate the lower block from the barrel don't loose it. The gas pipe is held in the lower block by this tube & should be a loose fit, remove it from the gas block. Now you have the lower & upper gas block halves. Using some emory cloth on a flat surface such as a plate of glass surface the 2 haves where they are held togather by the allen screws until they are flat. When you're satisfied that the 2 surfaces are nice & flat clean the pieces & reassemble. As you tighten the four allen screws use a feeler gauge to assure the 2 halves of the gas block stay parallel. How tight? You be the judge. Restake the screws like the factory did. A note here, the gaspipe that fits into the end of the operating rod should be free to move, it's built that way. I hope I haven't confused you but it's hard to discribe without a drawing.

Good luck
Bushwack

 

[Aldo]

Thanx for the info.But call me stupid ,but why would you want to polish and true a surface that doesn't even touch?There is at least a .01" gap between the upper and lower blocks now.The only advantage to trueing the surfaces on the 2 blocks would be if you placed shim stock between the 2 surfaces,allowing the presure to be spread out evenly between the to blocks.It might sound strange ,but think about it .Aldo

 

[Tom B]

You are sanding or polishing the high ridges of the surfaces so that they will be true or level. Then when you gap them you are sure that the gap is uniform around all surfaces. The entire point of the exercise is for the block cover to exert equal pressure on the barrel after torque.

 

[Aldo]

If you are cleaning and trueing to be able to fit the feeler gagues cleanly inbetween the block gaps.A tourqe wrench does the same thing!Thanx for the info,but I think,if I am going to work the gas block,I'll replace the whole Ruger made little whimpy assb.,with a Brownell's aftermarket or make one.Sorry for the spelling,"I really suck at it"Aldo

 

[bushwack]

aldo
You da man! If I had the knowlege & ability to make my own parts I'd surely do things much differently. But unfortunately I don't so I'm stuck like most of us with either low cost "Kitchen Gunsmithing" or sending my mini out for high dollar alterations, which is a last resort for me. If I can get anywhere close to MOA out of this Mini I'll be real happy.

Good shooting
Bushwack

 

[Aldo]

Bushwack,It just seems to me that if you true the 2 surfaces on the gasblock.You might be better off 1.Closing the gap with a feeler gauge"as you said"2.Take a trouque wrench and get a mesurement of who tight the allen head screws are and they are drawn down true and even.This is what I would try different then most.I would take a mesurement of the gap between both sides,take apart the block and put shims beween the upper and lower block that was just a wee bit thinner than the measurment.What I would hope to accoplish by doing this is spreading the presurre of the 2 mating surfaces over a larger surface area.You want enough presurre to hold the upper and lower block on the barrel,and take the recoil of repeated shots,but not much more.Just a idea.Aldo

 

[Deaf Smith]

Hello,

I re-did my gas block on my mini using just a feeler guage and a hex wrench. To keep the block haves strait and all the screws tight, just tighten the screws like you would a car tire. Alternate tightning and check the feeler guage often. My mini will easly shoot 10 shot 3 inch groups at 100 yards (but then, I also replace the wobbly rear apendature sight with a Eagle poly replacement that does NOT wiggle.

The gun now sports a 16 1/4 inch barrel, including a flash hider/front sight that looks like a cross between a M16 flash hider and an M1 Garand front sight (all stainless). This is my 'Micro-14'. Add a ramline fixed poly stock, and a 10 shot Mason mag, with a backup of a stainless steel Ruger Factory 20 rounder. My favorite truck rifle.