If I do not have easy access to glass beading, would it be advisable to slightly etch the stainless steel surface with Naval Jello or Pepsi or other phosporic acid rust remover - or other suggestions - before applying the paint/enamel?
Whatever means you use to roughen or etch the surface it's absolutely mandatory that the surface be super clean before paint is applied. I like to use CRC Brake Cleaner. It's good stuff, dries without leaving a film & it's really strong stuff. If you use it I'd advise you to wear rubber gloves & good eye protection. You can get it at most NAPA auto parts stores. If it were me I'd call some local machine shops & see if they do glass bead work. Just a thought.
Machine shops or starter/alternater shops will usually blast something for you at a price.
I don't recommend glass beads for painting. Glass beads only peen the metal, they don't rough it up enough. Blasting with aluminum oxide works best. It actually cuts the metal and gives the paint something to grab. I have seen guns painted after being glass beaded, and sometimes the cured paint will slide right off.
I Airbrushed my mini with Brownell's "Teflon/Moly" coat. You spray it on with an air brush let it dry they bake it at 300 deg. for around 3hrs. This stuff is self lubing although I use lube any way. It's great for corrosion resistance. Dries to a matt black. If you wear it off you can allways recoat and bake. Beware it does build up and you have to beware of your clearances when applying. I did remove all of my springs from my mini and sprayed the parts ind. I called Brownell's and they said the temp wouldn't affect spring tension, but I remove them anyway.
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