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I'm having my Mini-14 Parkerized. I really like a military, all-business look. Any good links to articles about parkerizing? And comments welcomed as well... Thanks...:D
 

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For the DYI types, the Radocy Parkerizing solution does a really nice job and is a very reasonable price. I've done alot of small parts and they always turn out perfect. I have to get a stainless tank so I can do barrel actions. I've heard good deals can be had on stainless restaurant dish sinks........
Here is an M1 trigger group I did with it.
 

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Hmmmm........ I know a guy that does scrap metal and happens to have a stainless tub w/ a drain in the bottom< imight have to try this. Hey Slappy, did you have to heat the soultion? or use it cold.
I have an 1100 that I just aquired that is in pretty rough shape. It made it though a house fire and was stored for 6 months w/ NO! oil to protect it.
 

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I had my Mini-14 parkerized 26 years ago and when I got it back the action was very stiff. One of the guys at the gun club told me that it's stiff from the parkerizing. He used to be an armorer in the military and he said that I have to hand cycle it and shoot it to smooth out the rough surfaces imparted by the parkerizing. I did that, lubricated the action and it smoothed out.

I later used MG Coat which is a parkerizing touch up paint. This is similar to the gun coatings which contain Teflon in parkerizing color.

Another thing you may want to do is to coat the gas piston with anti seize lubricant to keep it from sticking. I learned that the hard way when I found my gas piston stuck to the operating rod and I had a hard time to loosen it. The anti seize lubricant prevented this from recurring.
 

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I have my own tanks but do not do allot of parkerizing now, I use stainless steel tanks taken out of a local jail kitchen. Cost is to much for one rifle at a time. If I get 3 or 4 close together people want the parkerizing done then I will do it. I do it in light green, dark green and Dark black, I have had a few that want it done in light black but I have not worked it out to do the light black yet. I also do a bake on grease to the finish that helps in the finish, it keeps helps in the rust prevention of the finish,( it does not change color or finish in any way) It was learned from a guy who did finishes on our weapons during WW2 and he was a great teacher on putting a lasting finish on these weapons and old workhorses.


Lou
 

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The Lauer Zinc-Phosphate solution (1 gallon $24.95 @ midwayusa) is inexpensive, easy to work with and re-usable. Means if you`ve parkerized only a few parts you can store it in an old milk jug and re-use it over and over again when you need it..
 

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The trick to a good parkerizing job is a good bead blasting job on the metal before putting it into the solution. It must be put into the solution as soon as it is bead blasted or it will start to rust. You can make a pipe burner with just some pluming parts, black pipe that you drill holes in and a gas jet. Your local propane company can most likely supply the parts. I made one on the cheap and it worked great. If possible, put a metal heat defuser plate under the tank. You need to keep the parkerizing solution at the correct temp. The stuff I used to use had to be at 160 degrees. The tank must be stainless steel.
It really easy to do. Once you bead blast the parts, handle them with cotton gloves so you don't get oil from your hands on the parts, put the parts in heated water and then in the heated solution (a wire basket for the smaller parts). It will start fizzing and bubbling. When it's done bubbling, it's done. Take it out of the solution, wash it off well in clean water. Dry it and cover the entire surface with "RIG" grease. Let it sit overnight, clean off the grease and re assemble your weapon. It's really hard to screw it up. A good even bead blast job is what makes it look really good. You want to bead blast it so the parkerizing has something to bite into.

Best regards, John K
 
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