[GAMEOVER]

I tried every recoil buffer on my Mini 14 (5817) that any PU forum member recommended from after-market to homemade. Couldn't get rid of the occasional FTE/FTF (avg. 1 in 10) regardless of ammo. Shaved them, cut them, sliced and diced every way imaginable. Even changed recoil spring to a Wolff and no difference. As far as reduction in recoil shock, the best was the Wilson Combat 1911 buffers. I will live with the slight increase in recoil shock but no more buffers.

 

[Marlin 45 carbine]

I made mine out of a thin slice of conveyor belt material shaped to fit, both ends. does well for me.

 

[whofarted]

I made mine out of a thin slice of conveyor belt material shaped to fit, both ends. does well for me.

Marlin where the heck do you even get conveyor belt material? and what possessed you to try it??

 

[hottarod]

Local gun smith told me to not put recoil buffers in my mini so I decided to take his advice.

I see no "witnessing" whatsoever on blow back. There is a bit of an indication where the bolt slams forward on the gas block but he said that was normal.

 

[Back Again (Drache Teufel)]

I tried every recoil buffer on my Mini 14 (5817) that any PU forum member recommended from after-market to homemade. Couldn't get rid of the occasional FTE/FTF (avg. 1 in 10) regardless of ammo. Shaved them, cut them, sliced and diced every way imaginable. Even changed recoil spring to a Wolff and no difference. As far as reduction in recoil shock, the best was the Wilson Combat 1911 buffers. I will live with the slight increase in recoil shock but no more buffers.

 

[Marlin 45 carbine]

I had a strip of it with the woven kevlar in it that was a freebie left over from when I formerly worked as an industrial mechanic/millwright.
the rear shows no sign of being hammered - I installed a heavier recoil spring in my M30 but the front definitely takes a slam.
IMO seems to reduce the impact jar.

 

[liquidmetal983]

I have a wilson combat 1911 buffer in the mini, havent been to the range yet with it in. but i'm considering takign it out after hearing all the posts or comments about failures.

 

[ZootAllure]

I have 1911's front and rear with no ftf/e probs so far. The bolt on first round has to be forcefully pulled back but I think as I run rounds through it that will bed in. Need new bushing as it still flings the brass 20ft.

 

[NJ2ATX]

I had the rear Wilson 1911 buffer in my mini for some time with no problems. Prob 500+ rnds. Then I started getting these feeding issues, I would disassemble clean, they would go away, then come back again. I didn't think it could have been the buffer as I had used it for so long without issue. Once I removed the buffer though I have not had a single FTF since.

Done with buffers

 

[COBrien]

I have a wilson combat 1911 buffer in the mini, havent been to the range yet with it in. but i'm considering takign it out after hearing all the posts or comments about failures.

Try it out first -- there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to which rifles like 'em and which don't. But from what I can gather, there are more out there that function just fine with buffers than ones that don't.

 

[calibrator]

I've had an idea for a long time, but have not experimented due to wanting to save my ammo stash for SHTF. I've noted that the Op Rod travels more than a little rearward before it actually starts to unlock the Bolt. I'm thinking that if you were to "Stack" bushings, or shim one with washers at the gas block, you could "Fine Tune" the ammount of gas that actually is trapped by the Op Rod driving it rearward. This might be an easier remedy that changing Gas Bushings, based on the type of ammo used. YMMV

 

[Hellgate]

Calibrator,
I would think that over time and under steady spring tension, ramming forward and hot gases that the buffers would eventually get warped and compressed. Which means the effect would change over time. I'd think that would change the function of the gun and likely the POI too.

 

[KingANuthin]

I've had an idea for a long time, but have not experimented due to wanting to save my ammo stash for SHTF. I've noted that the Op Rod travels more than a little rearward before it actually starts to unlock the Bolt. I'm thinking that if you were to "Stack" bushings, or shim one with washers at the gas block, you could "Fine Tune" the ammount of gas that actually is trapped by the Op Rod driving it rearward. This might be an easier remedy that changing Gas Bushings, based on the type of ammo used. YMMV

I'd be cautious about that. You wouldn't want the bolt to release before the round left the barrel.

 

[K1500]

I see no need to add a buffer to a perfectly functioning rifle, especially when it makes it malfunction.

 

[Adjuster]

The nice thing is, the rifle works either way for most folks.

If you don't like buffers, don't use them.
If you do, try a Earl's blue hose buffer. (Simple "slices" of the hose make all the buffers, any thickness you need/want/consider a benefit.)

And they hold up well.

 

[45K20E4]

I use a piece of mudflap in the back, works great.

I had a 1911 buffer in the front, but my accuracy decreased noticeably due to the op rod not locking solid on the bolt...now I only run a rear.

 

[hudson]

Buffers are a solution to a nonexistent problem. Why alter the overall system of a previously reliable semiautomatic weapon if there is even a small chance of failures?

 

[COBrien]

Because the BOOM-Bang-Clang of the Mini-14 action is hard on scopes. If you're running irons only, then there's really no need for them. But for those of us who like our glass, buffers are a good idea if your rifle will take 'em.

I personally have had a ZERO failure rate due to my buffers. Mags and bad ammo? Sure. But never because of the scope-savers.

 

[Back Again (Drache Teufel)]

what do you buy cheap scopes ?

 

[45K20E4]

I just like to minimize that rod to receiver slap. Never had any issues with it, so it will stay.