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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,
I am new to this forum. I will be picking up my Mini 30 in less than a week and already have a bunch of mods queued up for it. I am curious if further fiddling is worth it.
Queued up tweaks:
  • A smaller gas bushing on the way from ASI (probably going with .070).
  • Some Wilson 1911 recoil buffers
  • An Ultimak
  • A Burris 2.75x20mm fixed scout scope with some Warne rings
  • I am planning to get a trigger job for it as well (after I get a feel for the stock trigger)
The Mini 30 is one of the newer ones with the tapered barrel (not the tactical one). So, with all I'll be doing to it, would an Accu-Strut even be worth it? Its an added 8 ounces. So, if the benefit isn't significant, I may pass even if it does look nice.
I am also considering bedding the rifle. This is not something I have experience with but the videos posted by gundoc seem straightforward enough. Is it worth the trouble and the risk to the firearm?
Anywho, thanks for any and all help. Please feel free to comment on any other tweaks that may be of value in improving the rifle's function.
 

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Reducing the gas bushing size does a lot to keep the barrel cooler so it won't start whipping and reduces the violence of the action recoiling rearward. 1911 buffers, even if only at the rear help reduce barrel whip by eliminating some vibrations. The Ultimak rail is another big heat sink and itself acts as a barrel strut.

I don't think you need the Accustrut on modern tapered barrels if the action isn't overgassed and you are already taking steps to reduce additional introduction of barrel vibrations with a rear buffer. Most of the accuracy problems with the Minis are from the barrels getting hot and flexing under fire (whipping) in addition to the action being overgassed. The tapered barrel already helps with the first issue on the newer models.
 

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You got a good plan.
If you are comfortable with doing the job, then yes glass bed it. I prefer Acraglas Gel.
I bed the front first with shim bedding in the rear and the glass the rear.
This usually makes a huge difference with consistency in accuracy.
If you are not comfortable with glass bedding then shim bed it.
You should not need an Accustrut.
 

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Welcome to the Forum, HK-47! Most of the time, a barrel strut is not necessary on a tapered barrel (whether it's the Mini-14 or the -30). You should simply shoot the gun before you make the decision. However, many tapered-barrel owners elect a compromise by installing one of our single-clamp Socom models. It "may" provide some extra stability without much additional weight, as well as enhance the appearance of your rifle, or so I'm told.;)
 

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The new tapered barrel Mini-30 (non Tactical) has a fatter barrel under the handguard behind the gas block.
From the gas block to the muzzle, all older pre 580 Mini-30s have the same .625" barrel as the newest Mini-30s.
And forward of the gas block is where weight matters to reduce whip and excessive harmonics.

So no, a strut will not help for normal, slow fire. It might show a benefit under sustained fire when your barrel gets really hot. Then it will help stiffen the barrel and act as an additional heat sink.
I have had two Mini-30s, one with a short Socom strut, and one without, and can't tell that the strut makes any difference under slow fire. But the one that has one does look cool !


kkina deserves our appreciation, both for inventing and producing a great product that has improved thousands of older Minis, and also for being honest. Other vendors would have told you that you need their strut just to make a sale, but up above he told you the truth, no BS.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Ya, I do like the way the strut looks but with all the weight I'm adding with the scout scope and Warne QD rings, I'm hesitant to add more unless its gonna really help the rifle perform better.

This is only the second rifle I have ever owned. The first was a fairly light (and cheap) lever gun. I really want to keep the Mini as light as I can since I liked the feel of that light lever.
 

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Do you have a wood stock ? If so, ditch it and get a synthetic one. That alone will save you a 1/2 pound to a pound., depending on the density of the wood.

And while I have a Scout scope with Warne rings, it makes the Mini a heavy pig. I use the scope for load development, then it comes off and the micro dot goes back on. The Fastfire dots are on my Minis 99% of the time.

If you are talking ground squirrels, prairie dogs or punching paper, then yes, a scope is the way to go.
For deer, pigs or bad guys, things that the Mini 30 is well suited for, a 1 ounce red dot like the Fastfire is way better and doesn't weigh the Mini down..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ya, I was thinking about that. The rings and scope add like 12 ounces (could save a couple ounces going with rings that aren't QD but I need that for storage). The Fastfire 3 and its mount likely weighs about 2ish. I will feel it out at the range. I like shooting through the scout scope but 10 ounces less up front is nothing to sneeze at.

Don't want to lose the stock though. Really like the way the gun looks with stainless/wood.
 

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Listen to KKina on the strut. Its a Mini, skip the bedding - you will want to remove the action to clean it once and a while. Get a trigger job. If you have a flash hider, switch it out with a muzzle brake. I have had buffers cause FTFs on my Mini-14 - even when shaved down.
 

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Hey folks,
I am new to this forum. I will be picking up my Mini 30 in less than a week and already have a bunch of mods queued up for it. I am curious if further fiddling is worth it.
Queued up tweaks:
  • A smaller gas bushing on the way from ASI (probably going with .070).
  • Some Wilson 1911 recoil buffers
  • An Ultimak
  • A Burris 2.75x20mm fixed scout scope with some Warne rings
  • I am planning to get a trigger job for it as well (after I get a feel for the stock trigger)
The Mini 30 is one of the newer ones with the tapered barrel (not the tactical one). So, with all I'll be doing to it, would an Accu-Strut even be worth it? Its an added 8 ounces. So, if the benefit isn't significant, I may pass even if it does look nice.
I am also considering bedding the rifle. This is not something I have experience with but the videos posted by gundoc seem straightforward enough. Is it worth the trouble and the risk to the firearm?
Anywho, thanks for any and all help. Please feel free to comment on any other tweaks that may be of value in improving the rifle's function.
Modern, tapered barrels, such as your Mini has, seldom benefit from Accu-Struts to the degree that older Pencil-Barrel Mini-14s definitely do. I use a Drilled. dual-clamp Accu-Strut on my 186 (Pencil-barrel) Mini-14, and it works well. Single clamp Accu-Struts have diminished effect (as per mfr) compared to dual-clamp units. For your purposes, an Accu-Strut would be well down the list of possible mods, and possibly not required, IMHO.

I suggest that bedding most OEM Ruger synthetic stocks is >>usually<< not necessary. Wooden stocks change things greatly, and bedding wooden stocks often has benefits. Cheaper, and easier (in time + money) to change stocks from wood to Syn, if desired. I have bedded Mini-14s, (Syn and wood) and so speak from experience. I don't use wooden stocks unless it cannot be avoided.

What I would definitely suggest is taking a close look at how the metal stock reinforcement common to many, but not all stocks, fits. The metal stock reinforcement should, ideally, BUTT up against the "legs" of the receiver. There should never be any sort of "over-ride" or mismatch at that point. Modify the stock reinforcement to fit the receiver, NOT the other way around. An indication that there is a problem in this area is mags not dropping free, by gravity alone, and possibly some difficulty in inserting mags. Seen this stock reinforcement/receiver mis-match a few times, so always worth looking for it, and correcting it, if present. FWIW, I buy separate stock reinforcements (and all associated parts) for each of my stocks, and fit them, if required. That way, the stock reinforcement is fitted to both the stock and the receiver, and this makes changing of stocks a simple task. YMMV.

Rather than bed your stock, consider some judicious shimming, with thin, glued-to-the-stock plastic shims; might not be needed. Even some syn stocks can occasionally benefit from appropriate shims, but that is seldom required.

Before you modify your Mini, I STRONGLY suggest reading the manual (2X!), and giving it a thorough cleaning with the proper cleaning tools, such as a coated cleaning rod, with rotating handle, and a "muzzle guide" for same. The muzzle guide helps prevent wear on the muzzle rifling, and that is EXTREMELY important. Insert coated cleaning rod fully, and than attach patch/brush in the receiver area, then than PULL the whole shebang out the muzzle, same direction as bullet travels.

Break it in by running a few hundred rds through it, cleaning often, almost absent of lube. Possible to economize on some of the ammo by racking the action back, and allowing it to slam forward, then dry-firing it. Verify 100% functionality before making any mods to it, in the unlikely event your Mini needs to be sent back to Ruger, who take a dim view of user modifications.

Make any modifications one-at-a-time, and verify 100% reliability after each change. That's the only way to see the effects of a particular change. Multiple, simultaneous mods are asking for trouble, IMHO.

The quality of your ammo will play a part in the accuracy/size of group of your rifle. With ammo supply being what it is nowadays, just use the crappy ammo for wear-in/initial sighting-in purposes, and plan to change sight settings when decent ammo comes available. Important part is to verify 100% reliability of rifle and all magazines.

Congrats on your new Mini! Many folks here willing to help you, if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just got her. The trigger seems just fine to me - light and crisp. Don't think I need a trigger job. The metal reinforcement seems to line up fine and the mags drop free easy. She's also pretty light. Seems like the wood on mine isn't overly dense. Functions just fine when dry firing. Ordered some training ammo. Will check to see how well the thing feeds when that comes in. It looks just fine though.

I went ahead and nabbed a coated cleaning rod and muzzle guide from Dewey. I'll clean her up and take her to the range later.

I think I got a good one. We'll see.
 
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