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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking to upgrade the barrel on my Mini-14 to a heavier barrel (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Store/Pro...il.aspx?p=12380)
I have severall questions before I do so:

1) How much will the accuracy will be improved?
2) Is it worth it. I am looking to make my Mini-14 pretty accurate out to 200 yards (1" groupings). If I am not being realistic, let me know.
3) Is up grading the barrel going to help or is their something else with the Mini-14 that prevents it from being really accurate after 100 yards.

If anyone can recommend a heavy barrel, please let me know.
 

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Several of our members have that same barrel installed, so their answers will be more specific to that barrel...
1) improvements will be substantial with ammo your rifle likes
2) 1" (or less) is attainable, but bedding, trigger and ammunition must also be considered (I hope you didn't mean 1" @200)
3) the bbl is the primary cause of inaccuracy in this case. That being said please see #2 above.
Being an autoloader, it will not turn in small (sub MOA) groups without a substantial investment in tuning and tweaking.
 

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I have one of these barrels installed on a mini of mine. They are good, but not great. See my posts in the Gallery "Tang's CQB Mini", I have posted a photo of the rifle as well as some initial targets. The rifle was not all that much better than factory until I bedded it. I am still getting used to the new stock, and haven't shot it much since bedding it, so the jury's still out. It is a lot of money for a barrel that is only heavy out past the gas block. If I had to do it over again, I might look at installing a Walther barrel that is heavy throughout it's length...course that means a new heavy gas block and more $$$. Anyway, look at the targets, that is the best way to describe their performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The Walther barrel was also another barrel I was looking at but the Brownell catalog said a number of things that had to be done for it to fit.

Could anyone descript the whole process. What has to be done to get a Walther barrel onto a Mini-14? How much work and how should it cost?

Another question, what is "bedding"?

Thanks
 

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Mullen,

As I mentioned, the Walther conversion or any other true bull barrel will require replacement of the gas block. The gas block is the part of your rifle that caps off the front of your stock.. where the gas port taps into your barrel to use expanding gases to cycle your action. A heavy/oversized gas block is a custom part, and adds to the expense. Check out clarkcustomguns.com and see how they do it. They are very expensive, but are generally regarded as the best in the business.
Re: bedding. Bedding is the process of filling strategic areas in your rifle's stock with an expoxy resin which locks the receiver in the stock very tightly, with no play between wood and metal. Minis usually come with quite a bit of play in the wood-to-metal-fit and the action tends to move around in the stock while shooting. Bedding the action into the stock eliminates this movement. The movements can be very small, but they can wreak havoc on your groups by the time you get out to 100 yards. Outside of a trigger job, bedding has been the most cost-effective way for me to tighten my groups.
 

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Mullen, I'm just gonna throw some stuff at ya to think over, maybe it'll help maybe not.

I spent aprox $87 in mods to my mini, which directly improved accuracy. My mini out of the box shot 4 1/2" groups. After Mods 1 1/2" average 5 shot groups at 100 yds. with same factory ammo, scope, benchrest. My Reloads got it down to 1.15 average groups. My primary purpose is Hunting coyotes up to 300 yds.

I like the mini as is, because I can carry it all day, aim, and shoot quick. With a bull barrel, its harder to do these things. It just depends on the primary purpose for your mini.

Now for what little I know about bull/match barrels. Several people here have the bull barrels. Accuracy improved, but my thing is if you had a .223 chamber instead of an A2, i.e. .223, and 5.56 mm you would have more accuracy, but limit your ammo selection. My std 10/22 shot 1 1/2" average groups at 50 yds. With the bull barrel, the groups shrank to .9". Then a trigger job, bedding the stock, barrel pressure pad, the average groups shrank to .5. The main diff in the barrel, besides stiffness, is the tighter chamber.

Now a word on reliability, a tighter chamber is more accurate, but being tighter is less forgiving, and expect a jamb now, and then, as the semi auto's have a weaker extraction system, than a bolt gun.

What I would like for my mini, (though I haven't seen any) is an 18" tapered mini barrel, .750" thru the gas block, to .600 at the muzzle, with an A2 chamber. This would be for hunting. If I were into range work only, heavier is better so would go with the full bull. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 

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Well....i just had this same barrel- Blued, a A2 look alike comp put on and all the bells & whistels- done by Dave at DRC. I will be taking it Prarie Dog Killing next week- I have a range day planned for tomorrow & will let all here know the results. It looks great & I will post a pic.
 

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Mullen, I'm sorry I didn't answer all your questions, if you want a garenteed accuracy check out ASI. They have several products at different accuracy level's, at different costs. http://www.accuracysystemsinc.com/mini_14_...ccessories.html

Bedding, you asked what it is. It is filling the gap between the stock, and receiver with a fiberglass/resin mixture so under recoil the receiver/barrel won't shift in the stock. My hogue had aprox .030" movement in the stock, which translated up to 3" flyers. Bedding my mini removed the flyers, and tightened, average groups by 3/4".

Dogman, we would be very interested how you do at the range after "barrel break-in". Give us a range report please.
 
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