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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone and thank you for taking your time for your advice. Recently I decided to build my first AR-15. I am not new to firearms but I am new to custom AR-15 builds. I was recommended to purchase parts from PSA. I know there is a lot of people that don't give PSA much credit but I was very impressed with the product for a first build. I purchased a fully assembled 16'' 1:7 Nato .556 Carbine upper. (Later I figured out that a carbine gas system is not ideal for this length of barrel). I built the full lower from scratch parts by PSA. After about 300 rds of brass it shot flawlessly.

I later made some upgrades to try and raise the quality and functionality.

MagPul stock MOE & grip / MagPul B.A.D Lever / JP trigger spring kit /
Trigger adjustment screw kit/ Anti Rotating Pin kit / BlackHawk CH /
Strike Industries Flat-wire buffer Spring /Xtreme Tac Comp Muzzle Brake /
Odin Works extended mag release.

What would you guys recommend to improve the quality of my gun?
STT2 Buffer, BCG, Adjustable gas block? Is it necessary to change the barrel to a mid-length? Thanks again guys any advice would be awesome.
 

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If you don't like the recoil impulse of the rifle, run a heavier buffer and/or buffer spring. If you've got an H2 buffer, try an H3.

Or, better yet, pick up a JP Silent Captured Spring and a set of tungsten tuning weights for it.

An adjustable gas block isn't going to be all that convenient to, well, adjust, being carbine gas under a rifle-length handguard. Unless you have a ridiculously long Allen wrench...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you very much for your response! You make a good point about the adjustable gas block being inconvenient. I've just notice that it seems over gassed but the muzzle brake help that a bit. As far as buffers go my PSA lower parts kit came with a standard carbine buffer which seems too light for it. I thought about purchasing the JP Silent capture spring but I just bought the Strike Industries Flat wire spring and It really made a great difference in sound and smoothness for the price. When I release the bolt it seems to violently slam forward making a much louder noise than what I usually hear on other AR-15's. I'm almost always using .223 rds so as far as your thoughts about using an H 2 Buffer do you think thats proper for a 16'' carbine length? Its a heavy barrel which I heard affects "bolt bounce". I know you kinda have "experiment" a bit with the weight sometimes but I'm just trying to save myself from purchasing more than one buffer since I will probably not use the one that doesn't match up with it. Is it possible to add or deduct weight from a buffer?

Thanks again! I appreciate anyone taking the time to give me advice.
 

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Let's take a step back real quick.

Where are your ejected casings landing? "Perfect" ejection is between 3:00 and 4:30.

Ejection from 12:00 to 3:00 is overgassed/under-buffered.

You've switched to a flat wire spring, but was that a Chrome Silicon (CrSi) or heavier-weight spring? Or did you just go with the flat wire to reduce the "sproing" in the buffer tube?

I'm not finding an LPK on PSA's website that comes with a buffer. But, regardless, it sounds to me like you need more weight and/or more spring (heavier, not longer). Well, maybe you don't need it, but it definitely makes the rifle nicer to shoot.

I don't run carbine buffer systems (I've got a thing for A2 rifle stocks...), but if I had an H2 and/or H3 buffer lying around, I'd gladly send you one to try out. You might talk to some friends, range buddies, etc. and see if any of them have one you could borrow for 10-15 minutes.
 

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You've done a lot to the rifle so far. My advice, get out and shoot it. Especially if you've had zero issues so far. You could do a prism optics like a Primary Arms 5X ACSS.
 

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What are you trying to improve exactly when you say quality? What functionality issues are you having? Why did you decide that 16" isn't good for carbine length?
As far as adjustable gas blocks, "ridiculously long Allen wrenches" aren't that rare or hard to get.
I've done both weights and adjustable gas blocks and gas blocks are way more convenient.
 

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Excellent Answers ...

Not too much to add. One must assume the barrel maker and top end builder assembled the top end correctly. Be advised some of the U-Tube videos on AR15 assembly MAY be suspect. Not necessarily non correct but exhibiting a basic lack of build skill.

It is unlikely the wrong gas port diameter was used with the barrel. Unlikely but not impossible. The cheapo barrel builders just use one size fits all with the gas port? The 20" rifle has the largest gas port dia. Then it works smaller the shorter bbl. you go.

When the gas port is too big the build over functions. Compensating for this barrel maker error includes all the different buffer weights and types now available? If the gas port is correct for the 16" bbl, a USGI CAR length buffer and spring works best.

Yep ... just shoot the gun and enjoy. Hope this helps some.

Hundreds of AR15 builds. Uncounted M16 assisted rebuilds. Long ago far away.
 

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Have Fun Shooting ... Measure Brass Pile ...

What you can do along with the bench rest accuracy test with various types of ammo is let the brass pile get big then measure the center of the pile from the ejection port of the gun. Also measure how far and at what angle the brass is ejected.

Lots of U-Tube videos on this. Some are good. Some as kinda vague. With the brass pile date base we can then kinda determine if your build is over gassed. This only works with OEM type buffers and springs. Just more fun to conduct all of this.

Also will only work with one position gas blocks.. I do not know how accurate this test would be with the many different after market adjustable gas blocks.
 

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What you can do along with the bench rest accuracy test with various types of ammo is let the brass pile get big then measure the center of the pile from the ejection port of the gun. Also measure how far and at what angle the brass is ejected.

Lots of U-Tube videos on this. Some are good. Some as kinda vague. With the brass pile date base we can then kinda determine if your build is over gassed. This only works with OEM type buffers and springs. Just more fun to conduct all of this.

Also will only work with one position gas blocks.. I do not know how accurate this test would be with the many different after market adjustable gas blocks.
Adjustable gas blocks and buffer systems don't affect the "brass pile" test. Overgassed also equals under-buffed or under-sprung, and the opposite is true, as well.

Having said that, I'd just as soon have a non-adjustable gas block with the buffer/spring combination tailored to my preference. One less thing to potentially go wrong...
 

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AR15 Adjustable Gas Blocks With Top "P" Rails ...

Thank you both. I am still debating building that last wild ride, (yeah .. sure HB!) Left Hand AR15 A2 Retro Rifle. Finding high quality 20" LH 5.56x45 barrels with the taper pin type front site assembly is becoming difficult.

Who makes a high quality steel adjustable gas block for the AR15 that uses pinch bolts and has that needful P rail on top? The pinch bolt gas block would greatly ease the problem with barrel torquing and indexing.

Do the high quality steel adjustable gas blocks work? Do they completely shut off the gas also for Can use? I do not know. Been too long. Any specific recommendations that you have found that work great? Much thanks.

All Oregon State, US Code Laws And NFA Rules Apply. Hundreds of AR15 builds.
 

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Yes you can turn your rifle into a single shot by closing off the gas block. As far as railed adjustable gas blocks, Doublestar makes one but I don't know if they have a clamp on model. That's something you may have to mess around on Google to find. I'm sure they're out there somewhere.
Three of the builds I have done with adjustable gas blocks all use different brands and they have all performed flawlessly.
Bondhus makes ball end Allen screwdrivers that will fit under a hand guard to adjust your gas block.
http://www.bondhus.com/bondhus_products/tool_categories/screwdrivers/ball.html
 
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