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:confused:
I have a Brazillian Model 1908 Mauser in 7x57. I want to use it more for hunting, and want a bolt for it with a bent bolt handle. I saw this other bolt on an auction, and want your advice as to whether or not it will fit ok. I will check the headspace when I get it, my concern is, will everything else be ok?

Here is the description of the bolt:
This is a standard length stripped bolt for a large ring mauser receiver. It is sitting in a Turkish 1938 Mauser but will fit any standard length mauser. It has been cut and welded to accomodate scope mounting.
So... will this work ok in my Mauser, provided the headspace checks out decent? Thanks
 

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if you saw that on auctionarms there is a guy there that auctions off modifications to your bolt. Just search "mauser bolt" and you will find it. I have his e mail address if you need it. at gunsamerica.co under the gunsmith section there is a guy that will do your bolt for 35.00. Having your bolt done will eliminate the headspace question.
 

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This is all ancient history, and a very OLD post.

But just in case: Every decent 'smith in the country
can lower your bolt for you, and recontour, and most
charge very little money. This way, you do not have
to re-do the headspace. But I would NOT modify it,
I would get an entirely different rifle.

Any pre-WWI Mauser in original condition gains about
20% in value EVERY YEAR. Modify it and that process
STOPS DEAD. Get a barreled action and begin anew.
 

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There are actually two problems with switching bolts. Both of which you can solve youself. The first is headspace, and the second is the functioning of the safety. As the bolt is closed, the safety is activated as the bolt turns it's full 90 degrees. When the bolt handle is bent or welded, it's new position prevents the bolt from rotating the full amount. What you need to do is file a shallow cut in the right side of the reciever under the bolt handle to allow the newly positioned bolt handle to fully rotate into position. Just file away enough metal to allow proper safety functioning. "Rifesmithing" by DBI Press describes in more detail how to do this.

Headspacing is a little easier to deal with if you handload. You can make light, starting loads with bullets seated out too far, so the bullets are wedged against the riflling. The cartridges are now headspacing off the bullet instead of the case shoulder. Once the cartridge is fired the shoulder will balloon out to fit the empty space. Now, once you have these newly fireformed cases, you can adjust your resizing die to newly enlarged cases. You are compensating for excessive headspace with excessively long cases. Only fireform cases with LIGHT-STARTING loads. The bullets wedged against the rifling can dangerously rise pressures. Also, once you fireform your cases, the cases and resizing dies can be used only with that particular gun. You cannot use the cases or dies for another gun unless is has the same excessive headspace.

If you don't handload, or don't want to have a dedicated set of cases and dies, then you are going to have to have the barrel removed and the headspacing corrected on a lathe by the gunsmith. Again, this is something that's described in "Riflesmithing", so I'd recommend getting a copy. It's also got a great chapter on stock refinishing and my Swedish 96 came out with a fantastic Tru-oil finish.
 
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