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Sound's very nice. I'd encourage you to replace the uncut oprod for general shooting purpose's and save it for a rainy day. These, as you may know, were usually replaced long ago before stress crack's would appear. Save it, or sell it to someone who want's an authentic early safe queen. Enjoy.
:usa:
 

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That's a fine looking rifle, lots of character.... but not as much as the one I just got on Saturday. It's beat, really really beat, and it was a service grade. How did you clean the stock? My stock is almost black it's so oily/dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I used regular dish soap and hot water, cuts into the grease.
For really ground in stuff, mineral spirits, outdoors of course.

The wood will slightly swell from being wet and be careful of any cartouches that you may wish to preserve.
 

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It really looks nice I am waiting for mine to come back from the Gunsmiths and will have to assemble a spare parts kit.I am in Ill Health and plan to give it to the So.CA Junior CMP Program when it is my time.Jim :usa:
 

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308-
Thanks for the info, just plain dish soap eh? I've heard of oven cleaner but I think the soap sounds better. I suppose you used a stiff bristled plastic brush w. it? No need to worry about cartouches (sp??), I looked it over last night and the only one I found was the circle P on the pistol grip. I think I found the barrel date, w the op rod pulled back there were a bunch of numbers visable on the barrel, the only ones that could be a date were 12-54. I also did the bullet in the muzzle check, but I didn't know what to look for! It didnt fit in very far. Sorry to sorta hijack your thread, but this is good info I'm getting from you guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you use the oven cleaner trick, definately gonna have to refinish the wood. Tung oil or boiled lindseed oil.....

The muzzle check is simple. Place a military spec 30-06 (live) round into the muzzle of the barrel. The bullet will only go so far, and you look for the distance between the muzzle of the barrel and the case of the round. The more worn out the muzzle, the farther the bullet goes into the barrel, worst case, the case touches the end of the barrel.

Having said that, shoot your rifle first. The muzzle wear may not be that bad if your rifle shoots good groups. Barrels from the CMP run $60, and a gunsmith will mount it for you for a fee. Either way, enjoy your rifle.
 

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a308garand,

Took a look at your web site. Good stuff.
Nice job of cleaning up M1's.

Whats the rifle on the far left? http://a308dsit.i8.com/smallm1col.jpg

It looks like a short handguard with short barrel, but the lug and gas cylinder are in
the right spots.

Pat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That short Garand is a parts gun put out by Federal Ordinance as a "Tanker" prior to their business going under.
It is my only Garand chambered in .308 (so far) and took lots and lots of tinkering to get working 100%. I had to glass bed the stock to get it to lock up properly, fabricate the short front handguard (none provided), add several replacement parts, etc.

It works good now, but it took a few years of off and on tinkering. Makes me want to get another rack grade and rebarrel it to .308. :)
 

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So thats what a "tanker" looks like. I've conjured up mental images of a chopped
stock, etc.

Thanks,

Pat.
 

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Originally posted by a308garand
If you use the oven cleaner trick, definately gonna have to refinish the wood. Tung oil or boiled lindseed oil.....

The muzzle check is simple. Place a military spec 30-06 (live) round into the muzzle of the barrel. The bullet will only go so far, and you look for the distance between the muzzle of the barrel and the case of the round. The more worn out the muzzle, the farther the bullet goes into the barrel, worst case, the case touches the end of the barrel.

Having said that, shoot your rifle first. The muzzle wear may not be that bad if your rifle shoots good groups. Barrels from the CMP run $60, and a gunsmith will mount it for you for a fee. Either way, enjoy your rifle.
Brownells.com & MidwayUSA.com both have new barrels , .30-06 & .308 , for around $ 150.00 , if I recall . That is with dealer discount . Both offer dealer discount for FFL's , includeing C&R FFL . They are short chambered & a Garans-smith will need to finish ream it to your bolt .

God Bless
Wyr
 
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