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Formerly "raf"
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I have a side mount gas block. Still studying on how I we do the stock end. On a road trip right now do not on web much.
Commonly available sling studs can work. Wood screw-threaded stud can be attached to side of wooden stock, or used to replace top screw for the buttplate. A machine-screw threaded stud can be attached (with matching nut) to a hollow syn stock. Epoxy "Plumber's Putty" can be tightly packed around the threads of a wood-screw sling stud in lieu of the machine screw threaded sling stud and its' matching nut, but I prefer the machine screw and nut method, along with a suitable washer, as being a bit more secure. YMMV.

There are also all sorts of strap arrangements for the butt end of the stock, the best of them having a short auxiliary strap that goes around the butt plate (side to side) and prevents the strap from moving forward.
 

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The way you stop movement of a strap type cradle is to anchor it to the existing Sling Swivel stud on the bottom of the butt with a small tie wrap I used one on t he front of mine also. These have held for 15 years so far and you hardly notice them.
Bumper Carbon Grille Gun accessory Automotive exterior





If you've got a side mount gas Block the front is covered. it is the one that carries most of the load anyway.

With the Plastic Stock I'd just go with the Grov -Tec limited rotation Screw in Sockets. 2 for $7.50 at Midway and their Push Button Swivels are good too and they have 1 1/2" ones too. All my Slings are 1 1/2" wide nylon belt material. got more coming this week so they'll be available on my website.

Randy.
 

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Formerly "raf"
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The way you stop movement of a strap type cradle is to anchor it to the existing Sling Swivel stud on the bottom of the butt with a small tie wrap I used one on t he front of mine also. These have held for 15 years so far and you hardly notice them.
View attachment 65255




If you've got a side mount gas Block the front is covered. it is the one that carries most of the load anyway.

With the Plastic Stock I'd just go with the Grov -Tec limited rotation Screw in Sockets. 2 for $7.50 at Midway and their Push Button Swivels are good too and they have 1 1/2" ones too. All my Slings are 1 1/2" wide nylon belt material. got more coming this week so they'll be available on my website.

Randy.
What's the website?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
It's done.

Before- Wood with 20 round mag, sling, scope, and strut: 8 lbs. 9 oz

(Wood with strut and no scope 7 lbs 10 oz)





Poly Factory stock, sling, 20 round mag 7 lbs even

(without mag, 6 lbs 10 oz)












1) 1990 vintage Ruger 188 Series Ranch Rifle, 1/7 twist barrel
2) Tech Sights rear sight
3) 580 series front sight
4) Muzzle threaded 1/2x28 for a 5/8" length
5) AIM Sports A2 style 5 slot Muzzle Break
6) Ruger factory polymer stock
7) Choate ventilated handguard
8) Ruger GB Model folding stock gas block with side sling swivel
9) 1 1/2" QD rear sling swivel on side of butt stock, 360 degree swivel
10) 1 1/2" nylon light weight sling (from Colt factory package)
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
My "Perfect Mini-14" sort of looks like a current tactical with several key differences:

1) Mine has 1/7 twist for MK 262 MOD1 77 grain ammo. Current Tactical MInis are only a 1/9" twist
2) Mine has an 18" barrel as opposed to 16" = more muzzle velocity/energy
3) Side sling swivel front and rear.
 

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It's done.

Before- Wood with 20 round mag, sling, scope, and strut: 8 lbs. 9 oz

(Wood with strut and no scope 7 lbs 10 oz)





Poly Factory stock, sling, 20 round mag 7 lbs even

(without mag, 6 lbs 10 oz)












1) 1990 vintage Ruger 188 Series Ranch Rifle, 1/7 twist barrel
2) Tech Sights rear sight
3) 580 series front sight
4) Muzzle threaded 1/2x28 for a 5/8" length
5) AIM Sports A2 style 5 slot Muzzle Break
6) Ruger factory polymer stock
7) Choate ventilated handguard
8) Ruger GB Model folding stock gas block with side sling swivel
9) 1 1/2" QD rear sling swivel on side of butt stock, 360 degree swivel
10) 1 1/2" nylon light weight sling (from Colt factory package)
That's a beautiful Mini-14, Ima. I've been brainstorming for some time with the intent of putting a side sling swivel on my Mini-30 gas block. I've got a few ideas, but haven't had the time lately.

I did see years ago where a guy Tig welded a piece on the side of his gas block to accommodate the swivel. He made it out of small diameter bar stock, filed it flat on one side and drilled holes in the top and and bottom. I may try something like that. Mini-30 owners are out of luck, as Ruger never made a side swivel gas block that I know of.

Anyway, that's one nice Mini you got there... one of a kind...
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks! This really is the culmination of all my experiences with Minis going back to 1982. I always wished it was side sling like my M1 Carbine. When I got this GB folding stock Gas Block in a trade, the idea was born. My prior 1/7 twist mini was a standard Mini, so the only way I could mount a scope was side plate or scout mount - nether is which I liked. Plus, I had wished it was stainless for extreme durability. When my friend said, "Hey, I've got an older stainless Ruger Ranch rifle..." First thing I got the serial number and confirmed it was solidly in the middle of the 1/7 twist range, and the rest was history.

I still will keep the wood furniture and strut, and use that when I am feeling like long range with scope. I left the strut attached to the standard gas block.

I confess, I am tempted to do the same with my Mini-30, but as you say, the side sling is an issue. There is probably enough meat on the front of the stock there for a shortened stud with the wood screw thread. Need to get a 580 series front sight for the Mini-30, and thread it 5/8x24.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I was asked about accuracy on another forum....

I don't generally shoot paper except to dial in.

I did take "The Perfect Mini" to the range, and was busting clay pigeons on the 100 yard berm from a rest with every shot using a 6 o'clock hold. Since in this form it is a home defense Goblin/Troll/Zombie/Raving Insurrectionist whacker, all that I care about is "Practical Accuracy". If I put it in the wood stock with the strut and scope, I'll see what is can do on paper.

My retro AR15 GAU-5/P, my AK, my minty 1944/45 Inland M1 Carbine, and my Mini-30 will all pass this practical accuracy test as well. I'll leave the MOA rifles to those who care about such....
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Since I originally dialed it in in the wood stock, Accustrut, with the Choate front sight, I took it to the range to check it in the poly stock, no strut, and with the 580 front sight. It was dumping rain, but I tried anyway. First I shot at clay pigeons on the 100 yard berm with iron sights, using my 77 grain MK262 MOD1 clone loads - Nosler 77 grain OTM over 24.9 grains BLC(2).

Bingo! busted them with a 6 o'clock hold every time, just standing and leaning against the 4x4 upright for the range shade roof. Nice! There was a piece of clay pigeon on the 25 yard berm. Held dead on and vaporized it. No adjustments needed!!!! Love the 580 front sight combined with the Tech Sight rear. My thumper is complete!

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
My "Perfect Mini" is now my primary go-to home defense weapon. It is in my concealed "Handy grab" spot, with a Ruger factory 20 loaded with MK262 MOD1 factory loads. That's twenty 77 grain thumpers to end social problems.....

I also have a Wilson 1911 buffer on the front and a Buffer Tech blue Mini-14 rear buffer. These really make it easy shooting. With the buffers and the break, it is as easy shooting as my 1944 Inland M1 Carbine.

Also, with the factory gas bushing and buffers, brass goes 6-8 feet to the 4-5 o'clock position. The Buffer Tech decreases rearward motion of the bolt and seems to decrease the distance it throws the brass, based on what it did before I put the buffers in.
 
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