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I have a series 187, Mini 14. I want to mount a bipod (Caldwell 9-13") I need a some kind of adapter, Ruger was of no help.

If anyone has knowledge please advise as to Mfg. and model number and any other Info. that would help.
 

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I have yet to see an adapter that will work better than a simple stud in the forend. Harris makes an adapter as does another company, but a simple stud is still best.

Come back from the gas block about 1.5 to 1.75 inches and find the center of the stock. If you already have it make sure your bipod will fit nicely there. Then remove the stock hardware and drill an appropriate hole straight and plumb through the stock from the outside. Turn it over and from the inside, depending on your stock, inlet a small area for the flat nut to fit under the forend liner. Degrease the stud and nut, apply some Loctite and screw the two together. The stud will probably be too long, so with a Dremel stone grind it flush with the top of the nut and don't touch it until cools. If the part gets too hot during grinding spray it with a can of air duster for your computer held upside down in a ventilated area on the inside only. This will cool it quickly. Reassemble the rifle and you have a great bipod stud for a couple of bucks and a little bit of time that will always be ready and tight.
 

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I have yet to see an adapter that will work better than a simple stud in the forend. Harris makes an adapter as does another company, but a simple stud is still best.

Come back from the gas block about 1.5 to 1.75 inches and find the center of the stock. If you already have it make sure your bipod will fit nicely there. Then remove the stock hardware and drill an appropriate hole straight and plumb through the stock from the outside. Turn it over and from the inside, depending on your stock, inlet a small area for the flat nut to fit under the forend liner. Degrease the stud and nut, apply some Loctite and screw the two together. The stud will probably be too long, so with a Dremel stone grind it flush with the top of the nut and don't touch it until cools. If the part gets too hot during grinding spray it with a can of air duster for your computer held upside down in a ventilated area on the inside only. This will cool it quickly. Reassemble the rifle and you have a great bipod stud for a couple of bucks and a little bit of time that will always be ready and tight.
^Exactly.

I used the Harris "adapter" that is basically a flat piece of steel with a nut tack welded in place. On my factory synthetic stock, I found there is a space in the forearm between the "webs" where the adapter fit perfectly. Drill a hole just large enough for the stud, thread it into the plate with some blue LocTite, and all is well. I may have to go back and JB Weld the adapter in place at some point, but so far so good.
 

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I have yet to see an adapter that will work better than a simple stud in the forend. Harris makes an adapter as does another company, but a simple stud is still best.

Come back from the gas block about 1.5 to 1.75 inches and find the center of the stock. If you already have it make sure your bipod will fit nicely there. Then remove the stock hardware and drill an appropriate hole straight and plumb through the stock from the outside. Turn it over and from the inside, depending on your stock, inlet a small area for the flat nut to fit under the forend liner. Degrease the stud and nut, apply some Loctite and screw the two together. The stud will probably be too long, so with a Dremel stone grind it flush with the top of the nut and don't touch it until cools. If the part gets too hot during grinding spray it with a can of air duster for your computer held upside down in a ventilated area on the inside only. This will cool it quickly. Reassemble the rifle and you have a great bipod stud for a couple of bucks and a little bit of time that will always be ready and tight.
I drilled through the forearm and liner and flushed the stud off in the liner and it has never effected the operation of the weapon and I use a bipod all the time.
 

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Drilling is not that hard, really... I used the Harris #2 adapter - it required a little filing to fit the channel, then just set it in there centered as best you can. I used an ultra fine Sharpie to mark the center of the hole on the stock - then I drilled a tiny little pilot hole from the inside out. Flip over the stock and see how close you estimated your center, change to the proper diameter bit for the threaded shank of the stud to go through, adjust for center and drill from the outside in (I actually worked my way bigger bit by bit until I got the perfect fit). Then I went back to the inside and counter-sunk the stock to accept the flange nut - again, bit by bit until it was large enough to fit snug and perfect. I installed a UTG that came with 3 mounting systems - one of them included a drilled plate that worked perfect for an outside platform for the stud - basically sandwiching the stock between two big flat plates. Sturdy as hell. An extra benefit is... No grinding the excess threaded shank because the extra thickness of the outside plate takes up the length.
 
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