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Side to side movement is what you want to look for. On the wood stock you shim under the stock reinforcement bracket. I used a paper hole puncher to punch a hole in the shim so the bracket screw could be inserted. It also helps in holding the shims in place. On the poly stock you will have to fit your shims and then hit with a dab of glue to hold them.

Check the movement with the trigger assembly out. If shimming is needed keep even on both sides.

Bepe
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Side to side movement is what you want to look for. On the wood stock you shim under the stock reinforcement bracket. I used a paper hole puncher to punch a hole in the shim so the bracket screw could be inserted. It also helps in holding the shims in place. On the poly stock you will have to fit your shims and then hit with a dab of glue to hold them.

Check the movement with the trigger assembly out. If shimming is needed keep even on both sides.

Bepe
Will do. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
So, I got the reloading components I was waiting for, and loaded up some hand loads. Individually weighted charges with Varmageddon bullets. I once again mounted the scope, this time being careful to make sure it fully seated. The factory rings are a goofy design. As you tighten them onto the rifle, they try to turn themselves loose, and stick before they’re all the way seated. This is especially problematic with stainless, because it’s “stickier” than blue steel. Some slip 2000 and turning it tighter, then backing off a bit, then turning tighter over and over got it seated the way it’s supposed to. Then I removed all the screws and douse them with loctite. Then off to the range. This time it stayed on until I took it off.

It shot better than before, and consistently, but the best I can get out of it is a ten shot group of about 5” at 100 yards.
The hand loads provided the best accuracy so far. I had one fail to feed out of the 12 hand loaded rounds, and when I ran the ammo over the chrono the 125 grain bullets we’re only going about 2000 fps. Turns out load data for x39 is all over the place. Hornady‘s max load for the powder/bullet combination I was using is actually below another manufacture’s minimum load. I’m bumping up the load for next time, but…with the reduced gas bushing AND significantly underpowered ammo, if still only failed to feed one round. I have no doubt this is an extremely reliable rifle.

I took off the scope and confirmed zero with the tech sights, and got about the same accuracy as with the scope. This is sufficient for my needs, and to be fair, I did not follow Bebe’s advice and shim the stock, nor did I apply an accurizing strut, or do a trigger job. As I said, this is to be a truck gun, so 5” will work. I may re-address things down the road, but for now I am satisfied it will do what I need it to, namely remain functional and sighted in despite being banged around in a truck day-in and day-out for a decade or so. Thanks again for your learned advice. Phineas
 

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Curious as to what your powder and load were? I use the Varmageddon bullet with 25.7 H4198. Hornadys max load in their manual. No chrono so I can't give any velocity info. I recently grabbed a pound of RL7. Max load of 27 grains has given good accuracy and recoil and ejection seems about equal to the 4198 load. Maybe a little hotter. Last few range trips, I've been shooting the Hornady FMJ bullet. Surprisingly, I honestly believe that it may be a little more accurate than the V-Max.

5" at 100 yards is minute of combat. Plenty good in my book as acceptable. I shoot a 6" bull target at 100 yards. If I put all of my shots in the black.....I'm happy.

A quick pic of the Hornady FMJ as compared to the V-Max bullet. As you can see...the FMJ has a lot more bullet (bearing surface) up in front of the crimp groove. It also sits shallower in the case. I'm thinking that this bullet has less of a "jump" to get to the barrel rifling. Thus the improved accuracy. More testing to be done.
Bepe
Font Gas Cylinder Tobacco Drink
 

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IIRC, typical accuracy acceptance standards for the GI M1/M-14 rifles, using GI ammo, were about 4 MOA.

It would not surprise me any to find that with reloaded ammo better tailored to your Mini, and perhaps with some careful shimming, your overall accuracy will improve. Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I was using 23 grains of 1680 on the varmageddon bullet. I got some SSTs since then and I’m planning on trying them with a smidge more 1680.

I’d love to try some 4198, as it seems to be a good powder for this application, but it’s hard to find right now. (I saw a pack of a thousand small rifle primers for sale at bass pro yesterday for $125.00!)

Shimming seems pretty simple. Next time I get the rifle out I’ll try it.

I got the rifle a wilderness Rhodesian sling and took it for a walk in the woods yesterday. It carries comfortably and works well with the sling. Not sure I’m ready to be dropped in the Amazon with just the rifle and a knife yet, but we’re getting closer. :)
 

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Sandog loves the 1680. I picked up a pound of it a bit back and was going to try it. I saw the load data was light as far as load weight. I contacted SD and inquired. He is loading above listed data. He said no pressure indications. I've been using the IMR 4198 since the 80's. Switched to the H4198 a few years back. Both are excellent in the x39mm. The Hogdon gives higher velocity. As I posted earlier, I got into the RL7. That appears to be outstanding also. I didn't want to get too distracted so I gave the 1680 to a buddy. I'll use the H4198 and the RL7. Max load of RL7 is listed at just under 2500 fps. No chrono to verify.

With your trigger assembly out of the rifle try and move the receiver side to side while in the stock. If it has movement then shimming will help.

Bepe
 
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