The absolute torque doesn't matter as you are going to search for it anyway. As long as the lock washer doesn't make things inconsistent, it should work. I will give it a try when I get hold of the 187.
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The torque does seem making difference. But 25 in-lb on your rifle may not work for mine. I still need to experiment to find out the optimal torque for my rifle.With all respect, torque on the gas block screws does seem to make a distinct differemce, sandog has some useful threads on exactly that subject.
Any sort of "lock washer" will make the final torque "obscured" due to the effects of the lock washer, Flat washers, only, if one wants to obtain a reliable torque measurement.
By all means do experiment. Reporting your results will help broaden the knowledge base.The torque does seem making difference. But 25 in-lb on your rifle may not work for mine. I still need to experiment to find out the optimal torque for my rifle.
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As regards the gap between the gas block and its' cap, that can possibly be addressed when you replace the gas bushings.Now…about the gas block…I found this…>Snip<<
Am I seeing this right? It looks like the gas block gap isn’t even. Does that look normal? View attachment 65803
here’s the other side for reference,,, View attachment 65804
i can be perfectly happy with 3 inches at a hundred yards, that’s plenty of accuracy for my intended use…10” not so much. 10” could turn into a solid miss on an important shot.
Having a crisp, smooth trigger is invaluable on any firearm. The Mini trigger is much like the M1/M1A/M-14 trigger, so there are a lot of folks who are capable of minor tuning. Experts on the Mini trigger are not as common as one would like.My stainless 30 Tactical had about a 6 pound trigger pull along with a rough gritty second stage take up. I bought the MCarbo secondary spring and installed. Also lightly cleaned up the secondary sear interface with a light polish.
Brought the trigger down to a perfect, clean 4.5 pounds and a butter smooth secondary take up. Very easy job that can be done by anyone with a bit of mechanical aptitude. No touching the sears or any danger of ruining the trigger.
Gun Doc's video will educate you on how the trigger works. MCarbo also has installation videos.
View attachment 65811 View attachment 65812
"Clipping" springs is almost always a sure sign of improper technique. Most Experts substitute an identical length spring of a different "weight", as is accepted "best practice".4 1/2 pounds with a Factory break is plenty heavy enough. If you have an AD with that weight pull......you shouldn't be allowed to be around guns. No polishing or touching of the sears. Just as they left the Factory. Takes a deliberate action to get it to break.
I also believe the CMP / DCM standard for trigger weight is 4 1/2 pounds. Anything less is a DQ.
For what it is worth.... I sent my blue 30 Tactical trigger out to the West Coast gun shop that is mentioned here quite often. That was before I watched the Gun Doc video. Upon return it was a hair over 3 pounds. Now THAT trigger was way too light for a working gun. After I put the MCarbo spring in my stainless 30 I pulled apart the trigger on the blue 30 to "see" what had been done.
The secondary spring had been "clipped" about 3 coils. I installed the Ruger OEM spring from the Stainless 30 into the blue 30 to see what the results would be. Much to my surprise, the blue 30 trigger measured the same 4 1/2 pounds as the stainless 30.
It was a bit crisper in breaking. I'll assume the sears probably had been polished a bit while out West.