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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Tried one last time, before sending to Ruger. it is 8 or 10 years old so I don't know what they charge. Please see pics and comment if possible.
Failed to eject every 8 rounds or so.

The ones that ejected either flew 15 feet to the right, or just dribbled forward about 3 feet.:blink:

Notes: RANCH RIFLE MODEL 197

!. tried Remington and PMC Bronze ammo.
2. tried Ruger 5 round clip and some other 10 round clip.
3. forgot to clean the bore first.

CLICK-ON-PHOTO TO ENLARGE
 

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i ran 200 rounds through mine before cleaning.
i would disassemble and clean the heck out of it first and check for issues.
I would check to see if the gas port is plugged to be safe.
 

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+1

It looks like your gas system is a little plugged up some where. Tear it down fully, Ruger has a video on their site to help you if you need it.

Let us know what happens after you give everything a thorough cleaning
 

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Probably in the blow back. It doesn't look like it is kicking the bolt back far enough or hard enough to get a clean eject. What they said in other words.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Probably in the blow back. It doesn't look like it is kicking the bolt back far enough or hard enough to get a clean eject. What they said in other words.[/QUOT

I'm not disputing you guy's opinions, but seems it would not eject 15-20 feet one minute, then 3 feet forward the next minute, if it was a cleaning problem?

I forgot to mention that when I took it apart last week I noticed that the gas goodie was very wobbly, however on google someone says that is normal?
 

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Definitely not normal.

You shouldn't be able to move it by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Definitely not normal.

You shouldn't be able to move it by hand.
Man!! you are right, look at picture, the weld is cracked all the way around!!

I agree: if it is welded (or brazed), why should it be loose ever.

Now I need advise on whether or not to get an adjustable one?

Thank you
 

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The gas tube, from what I've read and looking at my pretty new (582 series) RR, the tube is not welded/brazed in place. It is held by the gas bushing and gas block but not rigidly.
 

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I'm not disputing you guy's opinions, but seems it would not eject 15-20 feet one minute, then 3 feet forward the next minute, if it was a cleaning problem?

I forgot to mention that when I took it apart last week I noticed that the gas goodie was very wobbly, however on google someone says that is normal?
Definitely not normal.

You shouldn't be able to move it by hand.
Yes you should, The piston should be a little bit loose if you twist on it, not a lot. It should not be solid. I have had three different Mini's and handled a couple more and they all had a bit of wiggle on the gas piston. Your gun needs a good cleaning, Especially the gas system. I would squirt some gun scrubber or carb cleaner in the piston with the barrel pointed down until it dripped out the end than give it a good cleaning and lube and see how it does.
 

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This one is definitely silver-soldered. I'm very familiar with that process,. I scraped it and that appears to be what it is. I can easily re-solder it just for fun, but I want something new. Like you say.
Its not silver soldered unless someone bubbed it up, Its held in place just like Hellgate said. I think it just needs a good cleaning and maybe the gas block disassembled and cleaned real good and put back on properly and torqued to spec.
 

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Yes you should, The piston should be a little bit loose if you twist on it, not a lot. It should not be solid. I have had three different Mini's and handled a couple more and they all had a bit of wiggle on the gas piston. Your gun needs a good cleaning, Especially the gas system. I would squirt some gun scrubber or carb cleaner in the piston with the barrel pointed down until it dripped out the end than give it a good cleaning and lube and see how it does.
I thought he was reffering to his gas block, not the piston. My apologies.

If you really want a new one, you dont need an adjustable one. A regular gas block will do. Now wants are another thing ;)

+1 to what Jeff has suggested
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I thought he was reffering to his gas block, not the piston. My apologies.

If you really want a new one, you dont need an adjustable one. A regular gas block will do. Now wants are another thing ;)

+1 to what Jeff has suggested
Hi P-R,

Brownells has them for $109 and $149 respectively. But they are not made by Ruger. is that a red flag?

DOES AN ACCUSTRUT INCLUDE THESE PARTS?

Please tell me how to get an official Ruger one. Thanks

1. On one hand, an adjustable one just gives my grandson something to mess with.

2. On the other hand, I'm always sorry later when I go for a cheaper item, especially when it was affordable.

P.S. Yes!!! This one must have been repaired in the past, I took a magnifying glass and could see the original lines of the solder on both sides of the crack. Now that I am learning more, I agree that it should be a little floating for centering.
 

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Hey Tom, Ill try to answer all your questions.
1) The accu-strut does not include the gas block with it.

2) The gas blocks are not made by Ruger, you are right. They are made by Accuracy Systems Inc. You can google them, they have earned a very high quality standard over the years. I have one of their trigger jobs and it is night and day from the stock trigger.
I would not worry about buying a gas block from them.

3)If you do go for the adjustable gas block, you will lose the 3rd and argueably the most important clamping point for the Accu-Strut if you are looking to install one later down the road. If that is the case, stick with the regular gas block, and get some new gas bushings from Gundoc. Great guy, his site is Welcome to Great West Gunsmithing and will take care of your needs.

4) When you say their is a crack that was repaired, is it a true crack through the entire gas block? If so, replacing the gas block is priority #1. Solder does not fix that and welding cast metal is very tricky even for an experienced welder. If it is just the hole that you are uncovering under all that buggered up solder, that is normal. Its how the piston is inserted into the gas block and is held in place by the gas bushing. An easy way to check would be remove the piston once you free it from all that solder. Pull out the gas bushing, then the piston will come right out.

Hope this helps you in some way.
 

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I'm wondering if the "solder" you are seeing is merely lead residue from the open based FMJ bullets mixed with powder fouling that gives it a metallic look. Some of the FMJ bullets I have have a bit of lead extending beyond the back of the jacket at the base. I would not be surprised if some of that exposed lead gets mixed with the escaping gas as the bullet passes the port in the barrel just like it can in a revolver when a lead bullet passes the cylinder gap. Just wondering. I could be way off. I think the gun scrubber solvent up into and around the piston will solve the problem.
 

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The gas tube should NOT be soldered/welded/epoxied in place. I'm in agreement that what you have is years of powder/lead residue. I'm also of the mind that you may have some sort of fouling in your gas system which is causing short-stroking at times.

Let's start by getting this thing clean before we go ordering parts...

First, plug up the muzzle. I've found that foam earplugs can be squeezed down just enough to fit and will hold pretty solid.

Now, pour some solvent of your choice into the bore until it runs out of the gas tube. Use some pipe cleaners or a stiff-bristled brush to scrub the inside of the tube.

Use a brass brush and more solvent to clean around the tube.

Now pour more solvent through the bore until it runs clear from the gas tube.

Use pipe cleaners to remove remaining solvent, then clean the bore as usual.

EDIT: Just thought about this... Is there a chance that you installed the op rod spring guide upside down? The tang should be on top of the cross-pin (closer to the action). Installing this upside-down can cause binding and short-stroking, as well.
 

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The gas block needs to be cleaned up and inspected, the piston is held loosely by the bushing inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes Hellgate, looks like it is bullet lead and not solder. I am going to really clean everything as everybody suggests. Woops! don't know how to remove wrong picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I completely dissembled the gas block and found serious pitting of piston and inside of slide (where the piston rides). I did get picture of pits on piston but not inside the block. There was also hardened black residue where the piston slides.

I took a chance and spun some 500 grit sandpaper in it, then spun some medium steel-wool and finally some fine steel-wool. I was worried about taking off too much metal, but I can still see some light pits, so I didn't take-off too much. I did the same with the piston, and it turned out real nice.

That could have been the problem because all ports were open and clear and seated.

I have a bore brush but no brush for the chamber, so I am going to shoot it tomorrow as is. The only items left to cause an eject problem would be a dirty chamber or a extractor/ejector problem, I guess. Maybe it will work perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Tested mini14 today after cleaning and polishing

If you read my thread yesterday you know how the "saga" is still developing.

I will re-post some of the pictures. Yesterday I scrubbed, cleaned, polished and oiled everything in the gas block. I took it to the range today and it jammed (failed to eject) after 5 rounds. So I chucked-it into my truck and pulled-out my 22-250.

The failure to eject is in the exact same place as before the 4 hour cleaning.

NOTE: After the jam I simply pulled back on handle and the spent shell flew right out. Something is intermittently stopping the unit from going back far enough to eject the shell. Then the empty shell is slammed against the chamber as the next round is fed.

I've watched the utube videos and a couple people complain that sending rifle to Ruger just makes it worse or it doesn't jam when Ruger gets it. So I am into this to the bitter end by-myself (and you guys).
 

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I recently received my 582 series back from its 3rd time back to the factory. My gun had a similiar problem. It seemed that there was so much slop(side to side) with the bolt that it would completely miss the ejector. New bolt, replaced the broken firing pin and everything seems right with the world.
 
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