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Dang, that's a steal for a brand new one. Did it come with the reinforcement?
Yes, came with everything. Birch, though...Nice stock. Butt pad is well cushioned but a bit grippy. Only observation (not sure it's a complaint) is the stock reinforcement is non-metallic - probably a polymer of sorts. I suppose if it bugs me a lot I could transplant the metal one from my 1980-vintage Choate folder or buy a metal one.

Genuine Ruger part.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/86...mini-14-stainless-and-blued-wood-stock-models
Presently out of stock there.
 

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That's a pretty sweet deal for a new one. I've been looking on ebay for used ones and they sell for more than that, fairly frequently.

Also I have some good news. I got the clamp-on front sight/bayonet lug in the mail today.

The last picture shows it next to the original front sight for comparison. It doesn't seem like the black is very dark. I sorta turned out grey. I would recommend just painting yours if it's going on a blued rifle. I think it'll look good on stainless. I'll get some more pictures of it as soon as it's on my rifle.

To those wishing to purchase their own. I will make some final design tweaks from what I learned on this one. I'm mainly planning on shortening it and thinning the metal to allow it to flex a little easier. Right now it doesn't like to move much. Less material will cause the price to go down, so that's a win for all.
 

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The Clamp-on type front sight/bayonet lugs are done. I made some modifications that should help them work better. I mainly thinned down the material to help them flex when they clamp down on your barrel. I also shortened them, which saves weight and cost. All of them are now under $50.

Clamp-on M14 style front sight/bayonet lug (.625" barrel)
Clamp-on M14 style front sight/bayonet lug (.563" barrel)
Clamp-on fixed front sight/bayonet lug (.625" barrel)
Clamp-on fixed front sight/bayonet lug (.563" barrel)

and simply clamp on bayonet lugs:
clamp-on bayonet lug (.625" barrel)
clamp-on bayonet lug (.563" barrel)

I also shortened and thinned out some material on the pin-on type which is a nice cost savings. Here they are:
Pin-on M14 style front sight/bayonet lug (.625" barrel)
Pin-on M14 style front sight/bayonet lug (.563" barrel)
Pin-on fixed front sight/bayonet lug (.625" barrel)
Pin-on fixed front sight/bayonet lug (.563" barrel)

And here are the pin on bayonet lugs:
Pin-on bayonet lug (.625" barrel)
Pin-on bayonet lug (.563" barrel)
Pin-on bayonet lug (.762" barrel)

Thanks to everyone who has been involved so far! This has been a pretty fun learning experience for me. The feed back has been appreciated. I hope anyone who has purchased some of these parts up to this point let me know if we have any issues and we can hopefully address them so we continue to have good options for the Mini 14/30 rifles!

***Just go to my new website here***
 

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Very nice work, Coletrain! I have a GB model already, but have been working on a modified 6" Accustrut that spans the bayo lug. Your clamp-on bayo lug might still allow me to mount a bayonet, just a little further forward. Hmmm.
 

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Very nice work, Coletrain! I have a GB model already, but have been working on a modified 6" Accustrut that spans the bayo lug. Your clamp-on bayo lug might still allow me to mount a bayonet, just a little further forward. Hmmm.
Thanks!
If you put a bayonet lug in front of the strut you may not have enough room to still get the bayonet ring to land on the flash hider. you might be able to get it to work by mounting is sideways right in front of the GB bayonet lug under the strut. Or you you could find a longer flash hider or muzzle break.

If I remember correctly, the original GB's use a 9/16-24 RH thread. Same as the L1A1. That flash hider has a bayonet lug on it. the bayonet lugs and the flash hider are both kinda cheap.
 

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Thanks!
If you put a bayonet lug in front of the strut you may not have enough room to still get the bayonet ring to land on the flash hider. you might be able to get it to work by mounting is sideways right in front of the GB bayonet lug under the strut. Or you you could find a longer flash hider or muzzle break.

If I remember correctly, the original GB's use a 9/16-24 RH thread. Same as the L1A1. That flash hider has a bayonet lug on it. the bayonet lugs and the flash hider are both kinda cheap.
Actually, I measured with my bayonet and it would fit - barely (it would just go around the muzzle end of the flash hider rather than the base). I was considering grinding a bayonet lug into the end of my modified Accustrut but decided I don't have the skills or machinery to do that. To use your bayonet lug, I would have to shorten my strut some and the front clamp of the strut would be snugly sandwiched between the original sight/bayonet lug and yours.

I have never taken my GB flash hider off, so I wouldn't know the threading. While the L1A1 flash hider is appealing, I just want to keep my GB original, since it is my first firearm. Were I to get a new one to toy with making it look more like a miniature M14, I might be inclined toward it. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Actually, I measured with my bayonet and it would fit - barely (it would just go around the muzzle end of the flash hider rather than the base). I was considering grinding a bayonet lug into the end of my modified Accustrut but decided I don't have the skills or machinery to do that. To use your bayonet lug, I would have to shorten my strut some and the front clamp of the strut would be snugly sandwiched between the original sight/bayonet lug and yours.

I have never taken my GB flash hider off, so I wouldn't know the threading. While the L1A1 flash hider is appealing, I just want to keep my GB original, since it is my first firearm. Were I to get a new one to toy with making it look more like a miniature M14, I might be inclined toward it. Thanks for the tip!
Understandable. I haven't really ever messed with my 10/22. It's fine the way it came.
 

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Quick update... The m14 dovetail front sight is ready to go. I have a sample part coming on the first of March to check the fit on my rifle. This would be specifically for the 580 mini 30 rifles. I have the dimensions from mine to go off of. If you'd like one for something else, I'll make it, i just need the dimensions under the front sight.

Here's what I have.
Front sight
Front sight with bayonet ring
 

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M1 Carbine Bayonet

These are early M-1 bayonets. You can also put them on a 1903 and 1903a3. The loop/hole that goes over the end of the barrel is real close to .625. I'm thinking it might be possible to use an M-1 Carbine clamp on mount and this bayonet to make your gun bayonet capable. Otherwise you are going to have to thread and install an M-16 flash hider and use the M7 bayonet. If cavtrpr340could give us more information about his clamp on bayonet lug I think we could figure this out.
Sir, what do ya' need to know? it is just a factory barrel 185 series. i cut the lug & band part off a old M1 carbine barrel band set up. drilled out the rivets clamped it over my barrel useing small bolts with nuts. the barrel ring in the carbine bayonet fits the end of my barrel very well. just let me know if i can give ya' anymore info. Cav.
 

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How strong are those? and can you make a slip on 1/2x28 threaded adapter for 583 series to accommodate a muzzle brake?
 

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Here is what I'm talking about,only with a pin on top and allan screws on the bottom made for mini14 583

http://thmb.inkfrog.com/thumbn/kevinday/ruger_1022_adapter_barrel_END_CONVERTER_5.jpg=450
I get what you mean. I wish I could, but there are a few issues right now.

-I can only speculate what the specific material properties are right now. I found a spec sheet of the material from the manufacturer of the machines that Shapeways (likely) uses. To properly check something like this for the strength to withstand a muzzle blast, I need to have a few more details on the material.

-While I studied some fluid mechanics in school, I don't know enough to accurately predict the forces a muzzle blast has. To compound this, I don't have any way of knowing how much forward force any of the various compensators/muzzle brakes/flash hiders would exert on an adapter. I speculate this is the reason not many people make a pin-on thread adapter.

-Not that many people have adopted 3D printing metals. There is very little public knowledge about secondary processes on the materials (like machining and cutting threads). I do have some parts that will arrive today that I will try to run a tap through. If that goes fairly well, then we might have a good starting point, but I still need to fill some knowledge gaps.

For right now, this is the only option I know of. I hope it works for you. It's not really expensive either.
Threaded Barrel Adapters
 

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Which height M1A sight do you use for the dovetailed version?
The short answer: the one that puts you on target.

The long answer: My front sights all have the flat of the dovetail at .380" above the center-line of the bore. I think the standard height for M14's sight is .570" which would make the total height above the bore line .950". The factory front sight on my Mini-30 has a front sight post .915" above the center-line of the bore. Your rifle might be different. You might have enough adjustment in your rear sight to account for that. If you don't have enough adjustment, you will need to file down the front sight until you can zero your rifle.

Changing the location of your front sight will also change the height of sight that you need. I'm not sure that I can give you a definite answer. There are a lot of variables.

I hope this helps a little.
 
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