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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to buy a mini tomorrow and was wondering what muzzzle break to put on it. Is there much difference in them? Also I am going to want to re do the trigger so I would like some suggestions there also. Want to try to keep the costs down some, I am not trying to build a tack driver just want to improve it a little. Links to some sites to buy them would help also. Thanks
 

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Hey reb. The John Mason, and the Black warrior double muzzle brake, sold at Cheaper than Dirt are the same. Most members that have installed this brake have had their groups cut in half. It is pined on over the sight. Very quick, and easy install.

I sent Mike Knifong my trigger group for my trigger job, I got the package deal, 3 1/2# trigger job, and gas port bushing kit for $50.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ordered my muzzle brake from john mason it is $1.00 cheaper than cheaper than dirt. Cheaper than dirt says it wont fit serial # above 195 and I read that in a post here and like cajungeo said in that post it will fit, I contacted ruger and they say did not change their barrels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Received the muzzle brake but I have a question. I read somewhere that the hole in the center of the brake shouldnt be much larger than the diameter of the bore. I also read that the holes for the gases are supposed to be on an angle. Is this right? The black warrior brake that I got has a 1/2" hole in the center of it and dont look much different than a flash hider.
 

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Hey reb. For max effective muzzle brakege, a smaller dia bore of the brake would be more effective, than the much cheaper brake. But we are talking threading your barrel, and a more expensive brake. The bottom line a $135 brake, verses a $19 brake. Some of us think the weight of the brake on the end of the mini barrel helps as much as the actual vented gas. Some have installed a flash hider but they reported not a large increase in accuracy. If you look at your double muzzle brake it does not have holes or slots in the bottom (a flash hider has slots only all the way around). So the venting of the gass is only in the upward, and side direction only, reducing muzzle jump and recoil.

So just install it, shoot it, you will like it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks that is what I thought. I am looking forwrd to getting everything done so I can see the difference.The brake sure looks nice on it. As I said before it sure is fun to shoot and I should have got one a long time ago. I am sure I will have more questions in the future. Thanks for all the help.
 

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One tip when driving out the pin, place the barrel flat on a block of wood so ya won't tweek the barrel, no need to remove sight, just slip on the brake, and tap in the new longer pin. If your brake is stainless, you can rub in some oil on the brake, so it matches the barrel better. Good luck, and Good shooten. ;)
 

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reb8600: Received the muzzle brake but I have a question. I read somewhere that the hole in the center of the brake shouldnt be much larger than the diameter of the bore. I also read that the holes for the gases are supposed to be on an angle. Is this right?

You are right. JM "brake" reduces the muzzle jump becasue it does not have slots on the bottom and it's a nice end-barrel weight that tames harmonics but it is not really a muzzle brake when it comes to recoil. Not that a Mini really needs one.

I like mine by am considering AK-type style or just a weight to save those 1 7/8".

V.
 
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