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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got my new to me Mini-30 Ranch to the range. It did OK. Did get a few random light strikes (Actually closer to "no strikes). Figure cleaning it might be a good idea?:blink:

LOTS of videos on YouTube for disassembling the Mini-14. Nothing on the Mini-30. Are there any major differences I need to know about?

Here's a pic.

SN is 189-55xxx. Any idea when she was made?

Thanks.
 

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you should be aware that much of the M30 foreign ammo is corrosive primed - all mil-surp made before around '80 is corro primed and even some of the newer made. most all of the corro-primed ammo is Berdan primed. after around '80 Military-contract cartridge ammo makers began switching from mercury salts primers to lead styphnates primer which is just very mildy corrosive.
if in doubt always flush the bore/gas system and bolt area with hot soapy water or better yet windshield washer fluid (winter mix - more alky) before doing a regular cleaning and wipe.
 

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+1...pretty much the same for the Mini-30, as it is for the Mini-14.

Marlin45carbine brings up some good points with regards to corrosive ammo. Windex is good too for use as an anti-corrosive agent.

Hope that helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies.

I gave it a spritzing with oil & wiped the bore when I took possession of it. Will give it a thorough cleaning.

It was pretty dry when I got it. I suspect dried crud in the firing pin hole might be causing the light/no strikes. The ammo got loaded again & fired no problem.
 

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You also need to be careful with what you oil the firing pin with and how much you use. Most of the 7.62 ammo is dirty as mentioned earlier. The crud and oil together can cause the firing pin to stick. Only lightly oil the internals.
 

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I find that non-chlorinated brake cleaner (the cheap kind you can get from wally-world) works wonders in cleaning out the 'gunk' after a day on the range.

However, since brake cleaner is a fantastic de-greaser, remember to re-lube the areas you've hit with the brake cleaner.

BTW, keep the brake cleaner away from wood finishes and plastics. As such, I HIGHLY suggest removing the action from the stock, when using it.

Last tip...you can spray brake cleaner on q-tips to clean in "hard-to-reach" areas.

I hope this helps! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the tips.

hehe... I learned about pipe cleaners with the M-16.;)

Nice thing about stainless, don't have to worry about solvents damaging the finish.

My local range doesn't allow any of the usual cheap suspects, so it will be seeing mostly name brand modern ammo. ($$OUCH!$$) I see a set of 7.62x39 dies in my future.
 

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since 'handloading the X39' is now in the topic Graf's still has the Hornady VMax .310 slug at a good price - cheaper than any quality slug in fact. only drawback is it's purely a varmint or anti-personell bullet. not suitable for body shots on any game deer-sized due to explosive expansion.
they shoot good out of my 189 series though.
 

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I have the AGI DVD for the Mini and the Master Gunsmith used Simple Green to clean the whole gun, he says that's all he uses, then he lubes it.
 

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'simple green' would for sure clear out any corrosive salt residue left by corro-primed ammo (which is oft times labeled as 'mildy corrosive').
 
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