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Take your rifle out of the stock.
Make sure it's empty.
Now, note where your magazine pushes up on the hold open tab/lever on the action.
See how the bolt has to come back, and allow the mag to push it up/out and hold the bolt open?
Now, look at how that rear buffer can, if it's TOO THICK will not allow the bolt back enough to get the hold open to flip into place, and lock the bolt back/open on last round.
What I've found is the 1911 buffers are TOO THICK, and at over a 1.00 each are way over priced, don't hold up well in my Mini 30, and when I discovered that high pressure Earl's blue hose works, I'm never going back to expensive 1911 buffers.
I suppose any high pressure fuel hose would work. I use Earl's blue silicone hose that is designed for push lock fittings, or can be clamped in place on other fittings.
You need a sharp knife, cutting board, or in my case, Craftsman cutters that have a razor on one side, and a cutting flat spot on the other.
I cut the hose about 1/8" thick or LESS. (Thick very thin washer type cuts, not so much doughnuts.) experiment with this on both sides, at the gas port, and the spring rod/action where the bolt come back, and slams into the action. These thin cut washers/buffers work excellent.
In my case, the 1.00 each 1911 type buffers crush up, crack and fall apart in less than 500 rounds.
While the "earls hose" buffers are much more durable, and have not needed to be replaced yet, going on 1500 rounds. But they do show signs of wear, but I have a zip lock baggie of them ready to go in various thicknesses cut out of scrap hose.
Cheap, and effective.
I should package them for .50 cents each, and run the 1911 guys out of business...
Make sure it's empty.
Now, note where your magazine pushes up on the hold open tab/lever on the action.
See how the bolt has to come back, and allow the mag to push it up/out and hold the bolt open?
Now, look at how that rear buffer can, if it's TOO THICK will not allow the bolt back enough to get the hold open to flip into place, and lock the bolt back/open on last round.
What I've found is the 1911 buffers are TOO THICK, and at over a 1.00 each are way over priced, don't hold up well in my Mini 30, and when I discovered that high pressure Earl's blue hose works, I'm never going back to expensive 1911 buffers.
I suppose any high pressure fuel hose would work. I use Earl's blue silicone hose that is designed for push lock fittings, or can be clamped in place on other fittings.
You need a sharp knife, cutting board, or in my case, Craftsman cutters that have a razor on one side, and a cutting flat spot on the other.
I cut the hose about 1/8" thick or LESS. (Thick very thin washer type cuts, not so much doughnuts.) experiment with this on both sides, at the gas port, and the spring rod/action where the bolt come back, and slams into the action. These thin cut washers/buffers work excellent.
In my case, the 1.00 each 1911 type buffers crush up, crack and fall apart in less than 500 rounds.
While the "earls hose" buffers are much more durable, and have not needed to be replaced yet, going on 1500 rounds. But they do show signs of wear, but I have a zip lock baggie of them ready to go in various thicknesses cut out of scrap hose.
Cheap, and effective.
I should package them for .50 cents each, and run the 1911 guys out of business...
