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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just took the ss ranch out of its newbie box. Tried 6 different kinds of ammo at 100 yards, no wind. Rounds 15 to 20 were shot with Black Hills 55 gr. FMJ with a mildly warm barrel. Unexpected accuracy of 3 shots in a 1" diamond and two at 2" outside the diamond, one high one low. Only brand worth mentioning. Every thing else was 3-5" or worse. Nikon 3x9x40 used. Tried Black Hills 68gr. Couldn't hit the paper at 100 yds. at the zero for the 55gr. Anyone know what powder Black Hills uses in their 55 gr.reloads? I'd surely like to duplicate this load so I can plink to my little heart's content and still pay the rent. Thanks.
 

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I have not had my new ss mini 14 long. I have only tried S & B 55 gr. FMJ and PMP 55 gr. FMJ. The PMP shoots much closer groups with my mini. Did you try PMP or S & B in your test?

V. V.
 

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t-bone,

I was using PMP .223 Remington FJBT 55 gr.

PMP is manufactured by Pretoria Metal Pressings A Division of Denel (PTY) LTD, Republic Of South Africa.

I shot one group of three shots at 1.5" at 85 yards with this cartridge. I have never had a group so small. S&B gave me groups around 6-7 in at 85 yards. I only shot one group with the PMP before removing my scope. I was in the process of taking off my scope and removing my handguard (which was bumping my scope) and reinstalling my scope. I ran out of my 20 rounds of PMP before getting the scope sighted back in. I hope I can reproduce the 1.5" group. I have got to get more PMP.

I have a convenient pile of dead trees to tack a target to about 85 yards from my house. That is why I was shooting 85 yds instead of 50 or 100 yds.


V. V.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by Varmint Vaporizer
I have not had my new ss mini 14 long. I have only tried S & B 55 gr. FMJ and PMP 55 gr. FMJ. The PMP shoots much closer groups with my mini. Did you try PMP or S & B in your test?

V. V.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by Varmint Vaporizer
t-bone,

V.V.

I have a 40mm Nikon 3 x 9 which conflicted with the handguard. I bught an aftermarket handguard with better ventilation and lower profile and now can use the scope at any eye relief without conflict.

Hope that helps.

t-bone

I was using PMP .223 Remington FJBT 55 gr.

PMP is manufactured by Pretoria Metal Pressings A Division of Denel (PTY) LTD, Republic Of South Africa.

I shot one group of three shots at 1.5" at 85 yards with this cartridge. I have never had a group so small. S&B gave me groups around 6-7 in at 85 yards. I only shot one group with the PMP before removing my scope. I was in the process of taking off my scope and removing my handguard (which was bumping my scope) and reinstalling my scope. I ran out of my 20 rounds of PMP before getting the scope sighted back in. I hope I can reproduce the 1.5" group. I have got to get more PMP.

I have a convenient pile of dead trees to tack a target to about 85 yards from my house. That is why I was shooting 85 yds instead of 50 or 100 yds.

V. V.
 

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I have a BSA 3-10X44 scope and it rubbed against the hardguard with the scope rings that came with the gun. I just got my new high scope rings today from cheaperthandirt. I installed them on my gun and put my scope back on but it is to dark to shoot. I'll have to sight it in tomorrow. Now I have a .25" clearance between the handguard and the scope!

I didn't know there were aftermarket handguards that were lower profile.

V.V.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by Varmint Vaporizer
I have a BSA 3-10X44 scope and it rubbed against the hardguard with the scope rings that came with the gun. I just got my new high scope rings today from cheaperthandirt. I installed them on my gun and put my scope back on but it is to dark to shoot. I'll have to sight it in tomorrow. Now I have a .25" clearance between the handguard and the scope!

I didn't know there were aftermarket handguards that were lower profile.

V.V.
Yep, they make several low profile after market handguards, but, since I have a ranch model with the integral rings, elevating the scope was not an option for me, as it was for you. I like the quick on/off ranch system which maintains zero pretty well when re-mounting the scope. There are some after market quick release rings available for the standard 14, but I don't know if they are taller than the factory ones. I like the factory rear sight on the plain jane model better than the flimsy little flip-up on the ranch model, but the integral rings are a great invention. Had 'em on my Super Red Hawk and fell in love with the principle. I guess you've got to give a little to get a little. There just ain't no such thing as a perfect gun (darn it). I'm trying to sell my Glock 27 so I can have a bull barrel installed on my mini-14 and get a trigger job done at the same time. That's another $600.00 and then I'll have a total of $1.500.00 in a little .223 that'll knock the nuts off a nat at 100 yards. Good enough for me. I just got rid of a Colt Sporter AR-15 competition grade that barely made 1 MOA on its best day, was heavy as hell (after installing 3 lbs. of lead in the butt stock to balance the damn thing), needed constant upkeep and was big and bulky. I had nearly that much money in that piece of over-rated junk. This will be a nice, classy, easily maintained little s/s/s/s (stainless steel synthetic stock) piece with excellent handling comfort and accuracy. What else could a man want in a high power rifle unless he was hunting antelope or bear? I have a Garrand if I need to make big holes some day or reach out and touch someone way over yonder..

Good luck gettin' them holes closer together.

See ya,

t-bone
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by Satan2655
t-bone,

Where did you get your aftermarket handguard? Does it cover the op-rod adequately? Can you post a pic?
Hey,

Sorry, don't know the origin, my smithie got it for me at wholesale price of $12.00. See photos attached. Hope this helps.

t-bone
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by Satan2655
t-bone,

Where did you get your aftermarket handguard? Does it cover the op-rod adequately? Can you post a pic?
Asked gunsmith for it,he ordered it from some supplier's catalog, don't know which one, don't think it was Brownells. Here's photo. Note the difference is; the after market model does not have a mechanical clamp attachment mounting (the bump on which scopes always want to rest), it is integrated in the handguard material.

Hope this helps.

t-bone
 

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t-bone,

Tell me more about the integral rings. I have a ranch s/s/s/s but it did not come with the rings you describe. It had the stainless medium height scope rings. I didn't know there was a factory quick release scope mount. I thought all of the quick release stuff was after market. I just invested in the standard high ss scope rings.

That handguard looks pretty slick.

V.V.
 

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Gang,
I hear ya on the scope hitting handguard issue. When using older Vari-X II's with the larger 40+mm objective, I frequently have to face that bump (on the handguard) off with a file to gain the nessesary clearance. Just a trick that might save you the cost of a new handguard or taller rings.

T-Bone,
Try glass bedding your stock and lapping the barrel before you go "whole hog" on the heavy barrel thing. It's surprising how much better they shoot for such little effort. I seriously doubt any heavy barrel Mini will drive tacks, but good honest moa accuracy...sure.

My advise.... scope it, glass bed it, have the trigger improved, lap the bore, and I always install a shok-buff along with my gas port kit. (Eliminates chasing cases and the reciever battering forces that ruin the cheaper scopes.)

Talk to ya later,
Mike in Oregon

NW Shooters Support
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"Mike in Oregon"<[email protected]>
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Mike,

Do you ever install trigger over-travel stops?

What is the price for the shok-buff and the gas-port kit? Where do you install the shok-buff?

What is the price for the fire lapping supplies?

Do you slug the barrel before fire lapping to see if it has constrictions or do you feel that fire lapping will pretty much improve any stock barrel on the mini-14?

Thanks,

V.V.
 

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Originally posted by Varmint Vaporizer
Mike,
Do you ever install trigger over-travel stops?
What is the price for the shok-buff and the gas-port kit? Where do you install the shok-buff?
What is the price for the fire lapping supplies?
Do you slug the barrel before fire lapping to see if it has constrictions or do you feel that fire lapping will pretty much improve any stock barrel on the mini-14?
Thanks,
V.V.
VV,
I do not want to abuse the this forum so I'll keep this brief:
Yes, I can install over-travel, take-up & poundage adj screws. However my std 4lb trigger job is the best value. Shok-buffs are installed at receiver end of the recoil spring. It prevents metal to metal contact between the oper-rod & receiver. Yes, I recommend slugging the bore first to get an idea if their are any tight spots, where they are in the bore, and how tight are they. Almost every Mini I've checked has had a tight spot. So yes, I feel every Mini will benefit greatly. Even a demensionally sound bore will benefit from a little lapping w/ 600-800grit, if nothing more than to polish the bore to reduce fouling and make cleaning easier. Keep in mind.. pressure lapping does require handloading of the lapping bullets. My glass bedding video covers this process in detail. I also have pre-coated lapping bullets avaliable.
E-mail me directly <[email protected]> for my info packet w/ descriptions, prices and other useful accurizing tips. (hint: Combo kit is the best deal.)

Talk to ya later,
Mike in Oregon
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeh, if I had any sense I'd go the glass bed way at first. I'm not one for fire lapping, though. I had a Savage 112B out of the box sub-moa, fire lapped it, bedded it, tuned it, tweaked it, added a comp trigger and guess what? Still sub-moa, just like from the factory, maybe a 1/4 better. Recent articles tell me lapping also hastens wear. In a skinny barrel, that sounds unwelcome. I think the harmonics of the little 14 barrel and quick heating problems are so poor it probably needs changing to bull status. I'm not trying for bench acuracy, just moa or better. I'm sure bedding would sort of tame the wobble, but what about the heat factor?

t-bone
 

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T-Bone,
I agree, the thin barrel is an issue. If ya got the funds.. go for it. But if all you want is honest 1-2moa for busting coyotes and general fun, I see no reason to spend $500-600 on a heavy barrel conversion. If I want sub moa, I'll grab my .22-250 bolt gun.

I repsectfully disagree that lapping hastens wear. Almost all custom match barrels are lapped, albeit by hand, but the result is the same. Throat erosion has much more of an affect on barrel life than lapping ever would. Besides if a barrel is no good to me as is, why would I be concerned about it's useful life?

I want to make a couple points:
1. If you want sub MOA from an auto, for equal money, I think your better served w/ a 20" AR15 "Super Bull". The AR does support fully floated barrels. Otherwise grab a good bolt gun.
2. Mini's can be made to shoot fairly decent for very little money when bedded, lapped, and tweaked a bit. But you can't expect sub MOA.
 

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The factory barrel on the Mini's most likely cost Ruger less than a Final Finish lapping kit would cost you. Although I haven't done it yet firelapping my barrel is high on my list. I doubt if it'd improve accuracy but a clean bore is a help. Something else I've been thinking about is having the barreled action cryo'd. I can't help but believe that there is probably a lot of stress built up in turning that barrel down so skinny.

Just my 2¢
Bushwack
 
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